Municipal budgetary educational institution

"Average comprehensive school №89

with in-depth study of individual subjects"

Kulebyaka - an old Russian dish

Completed:

6th grade student

Gaifullina Liana

Supervisor:

technology teacher

Nikolaeva M.I.

Izhevsk, 2012

Introduction………………………………………………………………………………

1 part. Russian kitchen…………………………………………………………….

1.1 Russian cuisine…………………………………………………………………..

1.2 Fishing in Rus'…………………………………………………………..

1.3 Nutritional value of fish…………………………………………………..

1.4 Kulebyaka - representative of the Russian national table………………….

2 Part. Study of the popularity of the Russian dish - kulebyaki…………….

3 Part. Practical part……………………………………………………....

3.1 Technological sequence………………………………………..

3.2 Nutritional value of the dish………………………………………………….

3.3 Calculation of the caloric content of the dish……………………………………………………...

3.4 Calculation of the cost of a dish………………………………………………….

Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………

Bibliography………………………………………………………………...

Introduction

« Eat half full, drink half drunk

Live your life to the fullest .»

Russian proverb

“What kind of kulebyaka did I eat today,

Gentlemen, simply overeating!…”

A.N. Ostrovsky "Mad Money"

“Oh, bright and beautifully decorated Russian land! You are glorified by many beauties: you are famous for many lakes, locally revered rivers and springs, mountains, steep hills, high oak forests, marvelous animals, glorious villages, monastery gardens, temples of God ... - wrote the ancient chronicler. - You are full of everything, Russian land! .. ."

Here, in the vast expanses - from the White Sea in the north to the Black Sea in the south, from the Baltic Sea in the west to the Pacific Ocean in the east, Russians live in the neighborhood with other peoples - a nation that is united in language, culture and way of life.

Cuisine is an integral part of the culture of every nation. It is not for nothing that ethnographers begin their study of the life of any nation by studying its cuisine, because it reflects the history, way of life and customs of the people in a concentrated form. Russian cuisine is no exception in this sense, it is also part of our culture, our history.

Purpose: to explore Russian cuisine, to trace the history of its development, to practice the preparation of some culinary products, for example, kulebyaka.

Relevance: Along with various hamburgers and pizzas that everyone knows about, Russian cuisine is increasingly losing its relevance. But Russian cuisine is part of the national culture, you need to know the history of its appearance, the taste of its dishes.

Part 1. Russian cuisine

Russian kitchen

The Russian table is widely known abroad mainly for its delicacies: smoked sturgeon back (balyk), sturgeon with horseradish, lightly salted salmon (salmon), red, black and pink (whitefish) caviar, pickled and salted mushrooms (saffron mushrooms and porcini) - components not only a beautiful still life together with crystal clear Moscow vodka, but also subtly harmonizing with it in terms of taste.

However, these individual finished products, moreover, festive ones, despite their sophistication, cannot give a complete picture of Russian cuisine, the originality of the taste of its main hot dishes, and the composition of the Russian national table as a whole.

Russian cuisine, in the form in which it has survived to this day, finally took shape a little over 100 years ago, in the second half of the 19th century. It has gone through a long, thousand-year path of development and has gone through several stages. Each of them left an indelible mark (if we talk about what we mean by Russian cuisine), and they differed quite a lot from the others in the composition of the menu, with the composition of dishes and the technologies for their preparation, that is, they represented a kind of separate cuisine.

There are six such stages: Old Russian cuisine (9th-16th centuries), cuisine of the Moscow state (17th century), cuisine of the Peter and Catherine era (18th century), Petersburg cuisine (end of the 18th century-60s of the 19th century), all-Russian national cuisine (60s of the 19th century - early 20th century), Soviet cuisine (from 1917 until recently).

In the medieval period, most of the Russian national drinks were formed: mead, prepared according to a method close to the production of grape wines, and giving a product close to cognac; drunken birch - a fermentation product of birch sap; hop honey - with the addition of hops to honey, in addition to berry juices; boiled honey - a product similar in technology to beer; kvass, strong drink, beer. In the 40-70s of the 15th century, Russian vodka appeared in Russia.

The main difference between the cuisine of the Muscovite state and the ancient Russian one was that there was a sharp delimitation of the Russian national table according to class. While folk cuisine, starting from the 17th century, is becoming more and more simplified and impoverished, the cuisine of the nobility and especially the nobility (boyars) is becoming more and more complex and refined. Noticeably enriched at this time modest festive table. In the 17th century, all the main types of Russian soups finally took shape, and unknown to medieval Rus' salty-spicy-sour soups - kali, hangovers, hodgepodges, pickles, - necessarily containing fermentation, lemon and olives. The appearance of these soups is caused by the extreme spread of drunkenness, the need for intoxicants.

One of the new culinary customs that appeared during the Peter and Catherine era in the Russian cuisine of the ruling classes is the use of appetizers as independent dishes completely isolated from dinner. New alcoholic drinks appeared - ratifia and erofeichi.

Finally, french school Introduced, during the time of Petersburg cuisine, a combination of products (vinaigrettes, salads, side dishes) and precise dosages, not previously accepted in Russian cuisine, into recipes, and introduced Russian cuisine to unknown types of Western European kitchen equipment. The Russian stove and the pots and cast irons adapted to it were replaced by a stove with its oven, pots, stewpans, etc.

During the all-Russian national cuisine, the range of national Russian soups - cabbage soup, stew, fish soup, pickles, saltwort, botviny, okroshka, prisons - continued to be replenished from the 18th century to the 20th century with various types of Western European soups. To a lesser extent than soups, fish dishes retained their advantage on the Russian table by the beginning of the 20th century.

Fish has always been used in Russian cuisine in countless forms: steam or steam, boiled (boiled), body, that is, made in a special way from one fillet, without bones, but with skin, fried, mended (filled with a filling of porridge, onions or mushrooms), stewed, aspic, baked in scales, baked in scales in sour cream, salted (salted), dried, dried in the wind and sun (vobla) and dried in the oven (sushchik). In the northeastern regions of Russia, fish was fermented (sour fish), and in Western Siberia they ate raw frozen fish (stroganina). Until the middle of the 19th century, smoked fish was less common in Russian folk cuisine, which, on the contrary, has recently been widely used in three types - cold smoked, hot smoked and smoked-dried.

In Soviet cuisine, river fish was in abundance, including fish products - smoked fish (balyk), black and red caviar, salted salmon. True, the fish is not a local catch due to its transportation in live-fish cages, the price has risen somewhat. But this did not prevent fish dishes from remaining one of the main dishes on the Russian table.

Fish was the most popular dish in Russia. They divided it into bony and cartilaginous. The first was called black, the second red fish.

Of course, many years ago, as now, red fish was especially valued. But in those days, the same thing was noted as in our days. Look at what V. Dal writes: “On the lower reaches of the Volga, red fish are bought up and all go up to the capitals; the people eat one boiled ear from black fish.

These same fish "migrations" we have the opportunity to observe now. Moreover, even the usual river - "black" fish began to swim less often to our table. How not to complain, like our ancestors: sip your ear, and the fish is at the top. Above - in the capitals?

And a very bitter saying: Even a small fish is better than a big cockroach. What to do, not everything with a fish, sometimes with a turnip. There is hope for the best, at least this negotiation can be turned over: Not everyone is with a turnip ... Fishermen, fishermen used to say: God gave fish, and bread. Although fish is not meat, it is tasty in its own way, and there are many hunters for it, and it is hard for a person: “To catch fish is to walk at death, fish is cheap only on someone else’s dish.”

Fishing in Rus'

Fishing is one of the oldest crafts that man has mastered. In the river, lake, sea, people saw an inexhaustible source of replenishment of their food reserves, and therefore they settled, as a rule, near water bodies.

Russia has always been famous for its fish stocks. In the 17th century, Adam Olearius wrote that the rivers and lakes of Russia "abundant to the extreme with every kind of fish."

The abundance of fish made it possible to satisfy not only the internal needs of the Russians, but also to engage in export. Russian caviar was highly valued abroad. Its main importers were Romania, Turkey, Greece, Austria, England, France.

In Russia, the fish table has always been plentiful and very diverse. Among the dishes of the first serving at feasts in ancient Rus', there was usually sour cabbage with herrings. Nearby, as snacks, caviar was put in different forms, that is, freshly salted, red - lightly salted, black - strong salting. Sturgeon, beluga, stellate sturgeon, sturgeon, pike, and tench caviar were the most widespread. Caviar was served with pepper and chopped onion, flavored with vinegar and olive oil to taste. Caviar was supplemented with balyks, which in the old days were called "backs", and hanging (a kind of dried) fish: salmon, white salmon, sturgeon, beluga, etc. Botvinya was served with this fish.

Steamed fish followed, followed by fried fish.

From this abundance of appetizers, they moved on to fish soup of different types: pike, sterlet, crucian, perch, bream, yazevy, zander, team ... Along with the fish soup, kali were served: from salmon with lemons, from white fish with plums, from sterlet with cucumbers. Each ear was followed by its own body, that is, fish pulp dough with seasoning, baked in the form of various figures. Mandatory were also pies and pies stuffed with minced fish, with elm, with herring, with whitefish ...

However, this is not all. After the fish soup they ate salty: fresh and salted fish in brine (cucumber, plum, lemon, beetroot) and always “under the spice” - this was the name of truly Russian sauces with horseradish, garlic, mustard. These dishes also relied on pies, only not hearth (baked), but spun (fried). After eating all these dishes, they indulged in boiled crayfish.

All year round fish did not leave the table of the Russian people. It was also allowed to eat during fasts. Especially a lot in the posts ate herring. Herring milk and caviar with potatoes were considered a delicacy. Milk was washed, the film was removed from them, rubbed with boiled egg yolks and mustard. Barrel pike - salted pike - was also widely used. It was boiled in water, skinned and served with horseradish and vinegar.

Smoked fish - whitefish, smelt, fish - was eaten as an independent dish or mixed with other products: pickled beets, pickles, raw apples, boiled eggs, herbs.

In winter, various fish jellies were often prepared. Fresh fish was placed in a pot, poured cold water, salted, added onions, allspice and put in the oven. When the fish was boiled, the broth was poured into bowls, pieces of fish were placed in them and placed in a cool place.

In general, Russian fish cuisine is very original. However, over time it has undergone various changes. There were new products, new types of fish (in particular sea). adopted better ways cooking with neighbors. And yet, Russian fish dishes have no analogues among other peoples.

The nutritional value of fish

The truly worldwide popularity of fish is not accidental. Since fish is not just food, but also a medicinal product. The value of fish is in the presence of proteins containing all the amino acids necessary for the human body. Fish fats contain a lot of unsaturated fatty acids, which are more easily absorbed by the body than, for example, beef and lamb fats.

One of the essential amino acids in fish protein is methionine. It prevents and treats atherosclerosis, regulates the work of the adrenal glands. Curd is called the king of methionine. And fish can be called the queen of methionine. In it, the content of this amino acid is only slightly less than in cottage cheese.

Cod, fish oil are rich in phosphorus. Potassium - many ocean fish. 200 g of mackerel contains a daily dose of iodine for a person (by the way, there is almost no iodine and bromine in freshwater fish).

A lot of calcium is found in crustaceans and especially in small fish.

Fish is rich in vitamins A, B1, E, C, D, B12, B2, PP.

A lot of advantages make fish and seafood indispensable in nutrition. Where people eat more fish, they get sick less. In Japan, for example, there is only one case of thyroid disease per million inhabitants. And in Norway, diseases of the cardiovascular system are rare.

Each type of fish has its own quantity and content of vitamins.

fish vitamins

Fish minerals

trace elements

Iron

1200

1000

Iodine

Cobalt

Manganese

Copper

Nickel

Chromium

Zinc

2080

1120

1080

1500

1020

Molybdenum

Kulebyaka - representative of the Russian national table

Kulebyak - a type of closed meat, fish or mushroom pie, the most revered in Russian cuisine.

The term comes from the verb "kulebyachit", i.e. knead something with your hands, knead, bend, bend, fold, sculpt the dough. Thus, this verb fully covers all the processes that occur during the manufacture of pie dough, which requires special efforts and special care, without which the product will not be of high quality. An explanation often found in popular publications that the kulebyaka is a corrupted GermanKohlback, that is, cabbage pastries, is absolute nonsense, an artificially invented fable that contradicts not only chronology, but also culinary logic. Kulebyaki are not cabbage pies at all, but first of all they are complex, and secondly, mainly meat and fish, mushroom.

Kulebyaka most often has the shape of a long loaf, a narrow and high pie. This form has been given to kulebyaka since the 18th century, as it guarantees the best baking of multilayer kulebyaka; it is convenient for cutting, especially in mass production and trade, when everyone is provided with an equivalent piece of kulebyaki. Therefore, a kulebyak of this form is accepted mainly in restaurants, while homemade kulebyaks can have any shape and size.

One of the main differences between kulebyaki and other pies is that it has much more minced meat; the amount of dough and filling is the same.

The inventors of the kulebyaki came up with many tricks to put such an amount of minced meat into the dough. Firstly: I had to make a hole in the top of the dough for steam to escape. Secondly: the dough is made steeper than for pies and pies. Finally, if the minced meat is very juicy, ready-made pancakes are laid between it and the dough so that the dough does not get wet.

The name of this pie is very often found in the works of many Russian writers of the 19th century. Here, for example, what kind of kulebyaka was ordered by the gourmet Pyotr Petrovich Rooster of their poem by N.V. Gogol “ Dead Souls”: “Yes, make a kulebyaka at four corners, put sturgeon cheeks and a screech in one corner, put buckwheat porridge in the other, mushrooms with onions, sweet milk, yes brains, and you know something like that ... Yes, so that from one on the side, you understand, it would blush, but on the other, let it go easier. Yes, from the bottom, you know, bake it so that it crumbles, so that it gets through, you know, with juice, so that you don’t hear it in your mouth - like the snow has melted.

To be honest, it's hard to imagine such a kulebyaka, and for sure the gogol here gave free rein to his own culinary fantasy to emphasize the jaded taste of his hero.

This is how D.V. Kanshin describes the preparation of kulebyaka with fish filling: “A real kulebyaka is made from sour dough and is always served hot. In the kulebyaka, a screech is placed on top of the fish - veins from the sturgeon spine, which, when well boiled, turn into a gelatinous transparent mass, making the cake juicy. Chopped eggs are placed on the vizigu, if the kulebyaka is modest, as well as various cereals and other seasonings.

Especially good kulebyaka, Kanshin believed, is obtained with Neva whitefish.

Kulebyaka is served as a hot appetizer, as well as with meat and fish broths. True, it is better to serve broths with small pies - kulebyachki.

Part 2. Research on the popularity of the Russian national dish - kulebyaki

What dish do you associate the Russian table with?

Conclusion: From the study, it can be seen that the majority of respondents associate Russian cuisine with dumplings. But we can also say with confidence that fish dishes are in no way inferior to dumplings. It is known that Russian cuisine is famous for its fish dishes. Fish and seafood form the basis of Russian cuisine.

Among the answers of all respondents, pies are also a popular dish. It is known that since ancient times, pies occupy one of the main places on the Russian table. Festive pies were distinguished by their shape and filling. One of the most popular pies in Rus' was fish pie- a kulebyak.

Do you know what a kulebyaka is?

Conclusion: From the study, the following is observed: the majority of respondents do not know the national Russian cuisine. Why do we, people living in Russia, know perfectly well various hamburgers, cheeseburgers and pizzas, and why is the name of the traditional Russian food - kulebyaka, associated with us with a curse word ?! Of all the respondents, only 35% gave the correct answer. Most people only know that kulebyaka is some kind of dish. We believe that it is necessary to respect and appreciate the traditions of our ancestors. We must not forget that national cuisine is part of our culture!

Part 3. Practical part

Process sequence

Technological sequence of cooking kulebyaki:

Ground meat:

1. Cut the fish fillet into small cubes, salt and lightly fry.

2. Add boiled rice, fried onion, herbs, salt, pepper and mix thoroughly.

Dough:

1. Prepare a dough: dissolve the yeast in warm water, add half the flour, stir and put in a warm place for about an hour.

2. Grind the eggs with sugar and salt and add to the finished dough.

3.Pour in the remaining flour, mix well, gradually adding softened fat, and knead the dough until it becomes smooth.

4. Put the dough for 1.5-2 hours in a warm place.

Kulebyak:

1. Roll out the yeast dough into an oblong layer 1 cm thick. Put the minced meat in the middle along the entire length, connect the edges of the dough over the minced meat and pinch.

2. Lubricate the baking sheet with fat and put the pie on it.

3. Lubricate with an egg, make punctures in several places.

4. Bake for 35-45 minutes at 210-230°.

Cost calculation

1. Flour 2 kg - 35 rubles.

used: 240 g - 4, 20 rubles.

2. Margarine 250 g - 20 rubles.

used: 25 g - 2.00 rubles.

3. Yeast 100 g - 3.50 rubles.

used: 12 g - 0.42 rubles.

4. Salt 1 kg - 5 rubles.

used: 5 g - 0.025 rubles.

5. Sugar 1 kg - 23 rubles.

used: 0.115 rub.

6. Egg 1pc - 3, 70 rubles.

used: 2pcs - 7.40 rubles.

7. Pink salmon 1 kg - 80 rubles.

used: 600 g - 48.0 rubles.

8. Rice 1 kg - 18 rubles.

used: 60 g - 1.08 rubles.

9. Butter 200 g - 30 rubles.

used: 100 g - 15 rubles.

Total: 78, 24 rubles.

Conclusion

Russian cuisine is very extensive and diverse. It has come a long way in its development. On this path there were periods of formation, improvement and prosperity, but there were also periods of decline, there were bright original finds, successful borrowings, but there were also losses. It is regrettable to note that Russian cuisine is now going through a difficult time. Gone are the so-called delicacies, spices, and sometimes there is not enough of the most common traditional food for Russia. However, the festive Russian table is still notable for its abundance, certainly not the same as in the old days, and the Russian house for its hospitality.

Bibliography

1. Potina T.R. "Popular food. Fish dishes" // Quest, 1992

2. Skurikhin I.M., Nechaev A.P. "All about food from the point of view of a chemist" // 1991

3. Medzhitova E.D. "Russian cuisine" // Kolos, 1992

4. Pokhlebkin V.V. "From the history of Russian culinary culture" // Tsentrpoligraf, 1997

5. Pokhlebkin V.V. "National cuisines of our peoples" // Tsentrpoligraf, 1999

6. Kovalev V.M., Mogilny N.P. "Russian cuisine: traditions and customs" // 1999

7. Trunova N.I. "Old Kitchen" // Courier, 1991

In Rus', from ancient times, baking bread was considered a matter not only responsible, but also honorable. The best bakers and mukoseys, polishers and kalashniks excelled so much in skill and skill that the ambassadors of other states sent Russian bread to European yards. But the first baker in Russia and his court baker imperial majesty recognized Dmitry Ivanovich from the Filippov dynasty.

On Tverskaya, opposite Leontievsky Lane in Moscow, stands a building that a hundred years ago was the "empire of the Filippov bakers." There was a rule in the dynasty: “In order to preserve and increase the family heritage, force the son of childhood to comprehend all the wisdom of baking in full”. That is why all the Filippovs, from a young age, defended the oven for days together with ordinary bakers, mastering the difficult craft of baking branded kulebyaks, pies and pies. Maxim Filippov, the founder of the future big grain business, arrived in Moscow from the Kaluga province at the beginning of the 19th century. With the whole family they sold hot rolls and pies with fillings. After his death, his son Ivan Maksimovich continued the business, earning the title of royal baker.

The most of the most

The third of the Filippov dynasty, Dmitry, turned out to be the most talented and successful in the baking field: while still very young, he improved the recipes for pies with fillings - and so successfully that the family's capital began to grow by leaps and bounds. The well-known writer Vladimir Gilyarovsky describes Filippov's pies in the book "Moscow and Muscovites": "With good butter, with fresh minced meat, the Piglet pie was so large that sometimes you could have a hearty breakfast ...". Later, Dmitry Ivanovich came up with unique, previously unproduced varieties of bread, found a way to store bakery products for a long time and transport them over long distances. Own bakeries at bakeries were the invention of the Filippovs. And the assortment! No one could compete with the Filippovs in diversity. There are 5-6 types of bread alone. And there’s nothing to say about baking: Dmitry Filippov’s favorite brainchild reflected all his baking talent and imagination. There were simple French buns with a toasted fold, penny loaves, called in everyday life "swindlers", saechki sprinkled with poppy seeds, sesame seeds or coarse salt, vitushki, kalachi and kalachi of all kinds.

Filippovskie shops were always full of buyers. Ready-made kulebyaki, the famous Filippov pies were delivered in best houses Russian nobility and restaurants in both capitals. What are the capitals! The convoys with their rolls and bald poles, baked on straw, even went to Siberia and the Urals. They were frozen in a special way, straight from the oven, hot, transported a thousand miles away, and just before eating they were thawed in damp towels and served somewhere in Irkutsk or Yekaterinburg at dinner parties. For the provincial nobility, Philippian tea parties were a sign of wealth and weight in society.

Bread loves care

When Filippov was asked how he managed to bake such bread, he invariably answered: “Khlebushko, it loves care. Baking is baking, and all the power is in flour ... so that not a speck or a speck of dust. And it’s very simple, ”he certainly ended his speech with his favorite saying. He just cheated. He had secrets, of those that he knew alone and the best and proven Kalashnikovs from the most devoted. And it doesn’t matter that Filippov was the owner of the “empire”, at the stove he stood on a par with a simple baker or a “bread-weight kisser”. The latter monitored the weight of loaves and loaves. And the owner considered it his sacred duty to check the quality of the batch. He did not distinguish between breads. He liked to say: “Black bread is the first food for a worker.” The best was considered coarse White bread from well processed wheat flour. Filippov personally checked a batch of such bread, according to a method that at first glance may seem blasphemous. He wrapped the loaf in a towel and sat down on it with all his many pounds, which made the bread turn into a thin pancake. If after thirty seconds it took its original shape and the crust was not damaged, an approving one was heard: “God bless!”. A batch of freshly baked bread arrived on the shelves and to customers. It was this kind of bread, along with sea otters and saiks, that was sent daily to the northern capital to the royal table.

About saika with raisins

It is not surprising that different tales were circulated among the people about Filippov. Or maybe it's true, it's hard to say now. When, for example, raisins with raisins appeared in Philippov stores, which no one had ever made before, history swam across Moscow. It was masterfully described in his book by the same Vladimir Gilyarovsky. The sovereign dictator of Moscow was then Governor-General Zakrevsky, "before whom everyone trembled." So, every morning, this general was served hot bacon from Filippov for breakfast. “What an abomination! Give the baker Filippov here!” the governor yelled over the morning tea. The servants, not understanding what was the matter, brought the frightened Filippov to the authorities. "What is this? Cockroach? What is it, a-a-a?!” - the general stuttered indignantly, holding out a saika with a baked prusak. “And very simply, Your Excellency…” Filippov muttered in confusion. “What-oh? .. Is it simple for you ?! - like an angry goose, the general stomped. - I'll rot! To Siberia!!! “The highlight is this,” the baker found and ... ate a piece with a cockroach. - "Lie, bastard! Are there raisins with raisins? Go away!" Out of breath, the already middle-aged Filippov ran into the bakery, grabbed a sieve of washed raisins and, to the great horror of the bakers, dumped everything into saech dough ... They say that an hour later he was already treating Zakrevsky with raisins and even received a glass of thanks from him. A day later, in the bakeries, "Filippov" there was no end to the thirsty, there was no tasty novelty, and two days later, convinced of the success, in St.

convict best bread

Dmitry Ivanovich sacredly kept his code of honor, even the Christian conscience: he did not use every opportunity where it was possible to increase capital. From time immemorial, there was a custom in Rus': big holidays- Christmas, Epiphany, Easter, Shrovetide, - as well as on the days of commemoration of the dead and parental Saturdays, send alms to prisoners, or, as they were called in those days, "unhappy." Bakeries received orders from some rich charitable man for a thousand or two rolls, saek, pies and bread, which were transported to prisons on the eve of the festivities. They were also sent to distant penal servitude, where they were divided among the prisoners. The main customer was the merchants, who considered it necessary to save their sinful souls by “saluting” the “unfortunate” for food, hoping that the prisoners in prayers would quickly get through to God. It was here that the bakers gave away their stale and expired goods for the full price! .. Many, but not Filippov. “God marks the rogue! he said. - For the offense of the "unfortunate" the Lord, according to other standards, repays and writes off! ..». Filippov's sacrificial cakes, saiki, sieve and pound breads have always been the freshest, and even sold at a low price...

Don't leave your fatherland

Dmitry Ivanovich did not live to see the revolution, he died in 1908. By this time, the "empire of bakers" experienced no better times. Before his death, Filippov instructed the heirs of the family business: “Do not leave the Fatherland! The trouble is not that our saiks and kulebyaks have stopped buying, but that without Filippov's bread, rye and fur with chaff, a simple peasant cannot survive ... ". The sons followed the father's advice, took care of the family business as best they could. And then... Expropriation, nationalization, repression. The new government drove the craftsmen out of the bakeries. The great heritage of the great masters was forgotten. Irreversibly lost are the unique technologies for baking bread that does not go stale for several days even in the open air, the secrets of long-distance transportation in frozen form, not to mention the unique recipes for real Philippian pies, rushes and kulebyaks with a screech. I'm sure a lot of people don't even know what it is. Meanwhile, this stuffing was very popular in Russia. Viziga is a dried back string from the sturgeon spine, which, when boiled, turns into a gelatinous transparent mass, making the cake juicy.

Andrey SAVOSTYANOV

What they could, they kept

And yet, some of the secrets of the master have come down to us. For example, it is known that when preparing pike pie for special juiciness, before covering the pie with the top layer of dough, a couple of ice cubes were added.

The recipe for making branded pies has survived to this day. These are pies with a small hole in the top. The filling was made depending on the type of broth to which they were served. Fish pies - to the ear; pies with liver, meat or egg - to meat and chicken broth. Connoisseurs poured hot broth inside the pie, which made the pie even juicier. To do this, the hole on top of the pie was made more elongated, “unbuttoned”, as they used to say in the old days, hence the name. Sterlet pies mixed with sturgeon were served to the sterlet's ear.

Kulebyaka is simply a miracle of Russian cuisine. And it has nothing to do with what is now sold under this proud name in stores.

I will tell you the history of this dish, tell you about my path in cooking and give you one old recipe from a 19th century cookbook (and separately - my recommendations for “improving” this recipe).

If you are not interested in stories, then scroll down the page - do not slip past the recipe.

And I will begin, mothers and fathers, my story.

About kulebyaka

I can cook, if not everything, then almost everything. Two or three years ago, there was one shameful gap in my culinary past - I never “worked” with dough. No, roll out the store and blind something - this is always welcome. But honestly, tell me that you like frozen convenience food. Even if it is very decent, it is only decent and nothing more.

As they say in one cheerful southern city: “Decent is a good argument, but not yet a reason to get married.”

The dough should be homemade, fresh, lush, simply "indecent in its nakedness." There must be temptation. And individual unforgettable taste. And this is possible only if you make the dough with your own hands.

However, back to the pie. In my happy childhood this pie just didn't exist. I was born in the Far East, and there is a special attitude towards fish: fry, salt, smoke. And I’ll tell you honestly that if you have fresh-fresh (not fresh-frozen) fish, then don’t be smart, but immediately put it in a frying pan. It definitely won't taste better.

Remember how Ivan Gurevich Zhilin used to say from Chekhov's "Siren":

... then you never need to think about smart; clever yes scientist always knocks off the appetite. If you please know yourself, philosophers and scientists are the last people about food and worse than them, excuse me, they don’t even eat pigs.

Fresh fish just needs to be fried. And that's it. But if you have this fish more than “to fry”, then you can (and should) kulebyachit.

Yes, I digress again. Despite the fact that my grandmother (God rest her kingdom) and my mother are cooks from God, they didn’t cook fish pies in our house. With meat, cheese, cherries, sorrel, apples, cabbage, raspberries and God only knows what else. But with fish, no.

And then we moved to live in the Urals and I saw her in the cooking of a large store. She was lying on a faience plate, looking so pale, wrinkled, cold, and clearly no longer young. And on it, a proud sail, a price tag was piled up, on which a funny word was written in a blue ballpoint hand: “Kulebyaka”.

• Mom, look, they sell byaku. Let's buy?
• You won't eat it!

But I was a very purposeful child - I saved up money for school lunches, bought it and realized that my mother needed to be listened to. I'd rather buy a cheburek! If you only knew what pasties were fried on Metallurgov Avenue in the city of Magnitogorsk before perestroika! But I will talk about this sometime later.

The second meeting with the kulebyaka took place many years later. I was a student and worked in practice in the city of Gorky (now Nizhny Novgorod) at the car factory. The girl from the brigade invited me to visit (and don't think anything bad). They lived together: grandmother, mother and granddaughter. Those. without male hands. And it was necessary to fix the wiring in the old house. I fixed the wiring and was invited to "try the pie." Well, in fact, I'm a student in practice, not a plumber. Don't settle accounts with me with a bottle.

• I will treat you to my signature kulebyaka, - said the grandmother.

And I thought that people, in general, are very ungrateful. I worked all day, and they will ****** feed me for it. And I, as a well-mannered intelligent student, with an incomplete education, will now pretend that I have not eaten anything tastier. Should have asked for a bottle!
They laid the table, like decent people, I brought a samovar from the yard, and then my granddaughter's grandmother brought it in - "our branded kulebyaka." The aroma (where they just hid it and why I “didn’t smell it” before) is simply fabulous, ruddy, thick, beautiful ... Unusual taste and very, very oily (in the most delicious sense of the word). And again I regretted that I was not a plumber, because you can’t eat a lot of such a pie with tea. And this, you see, is very disappointing. Especially the next day, when you pick sticky pasta with a fork in the factory canteen.

Then a lot of things happened in my life, but there was no more such pie.

And about three years ago, my brother-soldiers invited me to the day of the Airborne Forces in the city of Ulyanovsk for fishing. I won't tell you how we celebrated and fished - these are military everyday life and civilians will not be interested. But after the holidays, I brought home a huge fresh catfish - I drove the car all day like crazy so that the fish would not go rotten.

At home he cooked fish soup, treated "local" brother-soldiers, friends and a few relatives. But even after the feast, “there is still a lot of som” left, and the age-old Russian question arose: “What to do?” And here, from the depths of memory or from a brain affected by alcohol - a kulebyaku. And my desire quickly turns into a mania.

• How to make kulebyaku Mr. Fox?
• And on our shelf there is an old booklet "Russian Cuisine". And in such a book it is simply impossible not to have kulebyaki.

Russian kulebyaka

I will start the story about the kulebyak with the great classics. For example, Anton Pavlovich Chekhov, "Siren":

Kulebyaka should be appetizing, shameless, in all its nakedness, so that there is a temptation. You wink at her with your eye, cut off a sort of bite and move your fingers over her like that, from an excess of feelings. You start eating it, and from it oil, like tears, the filling is fatty, juicy, with eggs, offal, with onions ...

And now Nikolai Vasilyevich Gogol with his immortal novel "Dead Souls":

Yes, make a kulebyaka into four corners, put sturgeon cheeks and a squeal in one corner, put buckwheat porridge in the other, and mushrooms with onions, sweet milk, and brains, and you know that sort of thing there ... Yes, so that from one side she, you know, it would blush, but let it go easier on the other. Yes, from the bottom, you know, bake it so that it crumbles, so that it gets through, you know, with juice, so that you don’t hear it in your mouth - like the snow has melted.

Subsequently, readers suspected Gogol that he wrote this piece of the novel on an empty stomach, and in the kitchen they started a kulebyak and the author was daydreaming as a hungry person, but who understands a lot about kulebyaks, can only dream.

But no, he may have dreamed, but only dreamed very objectively. Well-known author N.I. Kovale, in his book “Stories about Russian Cuisine,” claims that in “Dead Souls” we read not the feverish delirium of an ardent but hungry kulebyaki, but the old recipe for “Moscow-style kulebyaki”. That's how it is, mothers and fathers. In those days, not only literature was great ...

In that Moscow kulebyak, minced meat was laid out not in layers, but in wedges, separating each type of minced meat with pancakes. Hence the kulebyaka “at four corners”. And they made that kulebyaka from unleavened rich crumbly dough. special art it was required in order to bake a kulebyaka with juicy minced meat "to crumble like snow." It's about the bottom of the pie.

But what is a kulebyaka actually and why is it called that? The word is old and there is an assumption that it comes from the Finnish ******. Translated into Russian - fish. Therefore, initially kulebyaka was prepared exclusively with fish filling.

Experts say that the one that was a very long time ago was baked from sour dough with fish filling and was served to the table only (and only) hot. This is not a French pie. A screech is laid on top of the fish (these are veins from the sturgeon ridge. Until the seventies of the last century, the screech was freely sold “in all stores in the country”), and chopped eggs are placed on the screech, and besides, various cereals and seasonings. Kulebyaka with Neva whitefish was especially appreciated. Yes, it is also suggested to put a piece of ice inside the pie. This ice will melt as the cake bakes and will keep the pie very juicy.

It (kulebyaka) should be well baked so that the upper crust is crispy, and the lower one, although juicy, does not stick to the teeth.

Since there are currently temporary problems with the Neva whitefish, it can be replaced with halibut, cod, pike or other healthy and tasty fish.

Later recipes "gone" from fish stuffing. Today you can meet kulebyaka, with "whatever you put in the refrigerator, with that kulebyaka."

There is an assumption that the kulebyaku is determined not by the filling, but by the shape of the pie and a much larger (than in other pies) amount of minced meat.

And now the easiest of the old recipes. I'll tell you right away what exactly I added to it. If you remember, then I built my first kulebyaka with catfish meat. It turned out very tasty, but .... My catfish in the pie just melted, but I wanted to “bite the fish”. And on the other hand, the cake turned out to be very juicy, fish oil soaked not only the filling, but also the dough. Even the bottom of the pie turned out not “like snow”, but with a crust (fat soaked the dough and it began to fry in a baking sheet). To be honest, I liked it. But, it's an amateur.

The recipe calls for kulebyaka with pike. In my opinion, the pike is a bit dry. You can compensate for this dryness with oil, but I prefer the good old (in the sense of proven) catfish. I don’t pass it through a meat grinder, but cut it into sticks, which I spread on minced meat. It turns out very tasty: there is fish, and very juicy.

This recipe will take time to make. Hours of commercials 5. If the dough comes up faster, then you can meet four.

Kulebyaki recipe

You will need:

For test:

• Wheat flour - 400 g
• Yeast - 20-30 g
• Milk - one and a half glasses
• Butter - 100 g
• Chicken egg - -1-2 pcs.
• Salt and sugar - to taste.

For minced fish:

• Pike fillet (or other delicious fish) - 400 g
• Vegetable oil - 1 tablespoon
• Crushed crackers - 2 tablespoons
• Sour cream - 1 tablespoon
• Milk - 1/3 cup
• Onion - 1 bulb
• Salt and pepper - to taste.

For the rice filling:

• Rice - 200 g
• Water - 2.5 cups
• Butter - 1 tablespoon
• Salt - about 1 teaspoon

And besides:

• Egg yolk for greasing
• Fillet of any oily fish (for example, catfish) - 300 g.

Cooking pie:

1. Prepare yeast dough in the sourdough method. Hope you know how. Let me remind you very briefly: In warm water or milk (30-35 degrees), put the yeast (pre-mix the yeast in water), add 1/3 of the flour and stir until a homogeneous dough is formed. Put for fermentation in a warm place, after sprinkling flour on top. Be attentive to the container for the dough - the volume of the dough will increase by almost three to four times. So that you don’t collect this dough on the floor later. Oh, that would be embarrassing. It will ferment for 3 or even four hours (it depends on the yeast).
   After the fermentation is over, the dough will begin to fall, so you need to catch it "at the peak of beauty."
   Pour the remaining milk (or water) into the prepared dough. Lightly salt the liquid first. Then add sugar, eggs, flour and knead, knead, knead. Until the dough becomes viscous, smooth and does not easily fall behind your hands. At the end of the "kneading" add butter and ... knead again until the butter is completely combined with the dough.
   Leave the dough for secondary fermentation for about 2 hours. As the dough increases in volume, knead it several times. This way it will ripen faster. This whole procedure will take you up to five hours.
2. In the meantime, the dough comes, you need to cook rice porridge, cool it and put it in a greased pan, and bake in the oven until a light golden crust forms.
3. Pass the pike fillet twice through a meat grinder along with onions, add finely chopped boiled eggs to the minced meat, then all the other ingredients and mix well. The stuffing should be almost uniform.
4. When the dough is ready, it needs to be rolled out into an oval cake, about a finger thick. And start laying the minced meat on this cake in layers: minced fish, rice, fatty fish fillet in pieces, and repeat the layers again. We are building such an oblong hill on a cone. We spread the layers until the stuffing runs out.
5. Then, wrap the edges of the cake and “pinch” over the minced meat. Decorate the pie with “any garbage” from the dough: flowers there, or fish. It’s just that without all this (I won’t repeat this word), the kulebyaka is not quite a kulebyaka. We must, Fedya. For high art.
6. Put the kulebyaka in a warm place (for proofing) for 20 minutes. Then, grease it with egg yolk and be sure to pierce it with a fork. And not just once. And then it explodes. In the sense that it will subdue beauty.
7. Bake kulebyaka at a temperature of 210-220 degrees. The baking time depends on the thickness of both the dough and minced meat. Here you need a wooden skewer (to poke dough and minced meat) or a true nose and a true eye.

Enjoy your meal! Maybe with tea. But I advise you to aggravate a little and enjoy it to the maximum extent.

Kulebyaka and cold is good, but kind person, where to go, should gobble it up hot. So much tastier and better.

And in conclusion. By and large, the Hamburg account can create any filling. It happens that the minced meat turns out to be very juicy. In this case, you can go to 4 corners, in the sense that you will need such thin pancakes and minced meat can be laid with these pancakes.

If you are building a very high kulebyaka, then you can roll out not one oval from the dough, but two: bottom and top. Make the bottom one thinner than the top one. If the minced meat is juicy, then the bottom will be better with a slight crunch than sticky. And then you have to "dry" in a pan.

In the good old days, kulebyaka was not the final dish, but only an appetizer. For the first course. Already closer to the twentieth century, not kulebyaks, but kulebyachki began to be served with broths. These are such small pies that were prepared in exactly the same way as the main kulebyaka. But minced meat for kulebyacheks was made with meat and cabbage. But, this is optional.

Cooking a real kulebyaka is not at all easy. And it may happen that the first time you do not succeed as you want. And it didn't work out the way I wanted. But even then it was delicious. A little not as pretty as planned.

Russian cuisine - it requires skill and patience. And how it goes, so by the ears ... In general, once again,

Enjoy your meal! And success.

The feasts of Russian princes, boyars and tsars were not inferior to the famous Roman orgies with their luxury, an abundance of food and drinks. The sophisticated gluttony of the feasting and gastronomic fantasies of the chefs knew no bounds. Ancient sources brought to us dozens of menus of "great" feasts.

Honey was the main joyful intoxicating drink at that time. Honey was an obligatory drink of the festive meal of the then nobility. The Laurentian Chronicle reports how in 945 Princess Olga ordered the Drevlyans to boil a lot of honey, allegedly in order to celebrate a feast for Prince Igor, who they had killed. The tragic role that honey played in the insidious performance played out by the vengeful wife of the deceased prince indicates that in those days the Russians knew how to cook quite strong honey.

The same chronicle tells of a grand feast arranged in 996 in honor of Olga by Prince Vladimir. The prince ordered to cook 300 barrels of honey for the feast. Honey remained the favorite drink of Russians until the end of the 17th century. In the era of Peter I, meads fade into the background, and overseas wines and vodkas take their place. This is largely due to the fact that the harsh climate of the country did not allow the active development of viticulture and, as a result, winemaking. However, of course, the excellent quality of the honeys themselves, their huge variety, also played an important role.

However, back to the feasts. We learn about many significant dates from the history of our fatherland from the descriptions of this or that feast. For example, the earliest mention of Moscow is also associated with a feast held by Prince Yuri Dolgoruky in honor of Prince Svyatoslav Olgovich and his squad. These feasts were of a “democratic” nature: people of all classes came to the feast, and the more honorable the feast was, the more heterogeneous the composition of the guests was.

The relationship was based on such a concept as “honor and place”, that is, the guest was honored and given a place at the table in accordance with the place that he occupied in society. The grand dukes themselves treated the guests, ate and drank with them. The well-known Russian historian A. V. Tereshchenko writes about this: This was before the oppression of Rus' by the Tatars.

Asiatic pride and inaccessibility have corrupted ancient meritorious customs. Over time, feasts became less democratic, the strict order of regaling guests and localism occupied an increasing place at them. In Domostroy, a mid-16th-century monument that reflects the norms of behavior of that time, advice is given on how to behave at a feast: “When you are called to a feast, do not sit in a place of honor, suddenly someone from among those invited will be more honorable than you; and the one who invited you will come and say: “Give him a place,” and then you will have to go to the last place in shame; but if you are invited, when you enter, sit in the last place, and when the one who invited you comes and says to you: “Friend, sit higher!” then you will be honored by the rest of the guests, for everyone who ascends will humble himself, and the humble will ascend. When they put before you various dishes and drinks, and if someone is more noble than you among those invited, do not start eating before him; if you are an honored guest, then start eating the food first.

Among the first serving at feasts in Rus', there was usually sauerkraut with herring. Nearby, as snacks, caviar was put in different forms: white, that is, freshly salted, red lightly salted, black strong salting. Sturgeon, beluga, stellate sturgeon, sturgeon, pike, and tench caviar were the most widespread. Caviar was served with pepper and chopped onion, flavored with vinegar and olive oil to taste. Caviar was supplemented with balyks, which in the old days were called "backs", and loose (a kind of dried) fish: salmon, whitefish, sturgeon, beluga, etc. Botvinya was served with this fish. Steamed fish followed, followed by fried fish.
From this abundance of snacks passed to the ear. Russian cuisine knows all kinds of fish soup: pike, sterlet, crucian, perch, bream, yazeva, pike-perch, team... Along with fish soup, kali were served: salmon with lemons, white salmon with plums, sterlet with cucumbers. Each ear was followed by its own, fleshy, that is, fish pulp dough with seasoning, baked in the form of various figures (circles, crescents, “mean temptations”, a pig, a goose, a duck, etc.). An obligatory dish was also pies and pies stuffed with minced fish, with screech, herring, and whitefish.
However, this is not all. After the fish soup, they ate salted - fresh and salted fish in brine (cucumber, plum, lemon, beetroot) and always "under the zvar" was the name given to truly Russian sauces with horseradish, garlic, mustard. These dishes also relied on pies, only not hearth (baked), but spun (fried). After eating all these dishes, they indulged in boiled crayfish.

The more the feasts lost their "democratic" foundations, the more magnificent and luxurious they became. Exact description ceremonies for serving dishes and meals in the 16th century are cited in his novel "The Silver Prince" by A.K. Tolstoy.
During the feast, which Ivan the Terrible arranged for his brethren of 700 guardsmen, on the tables, except for salt shakers, pepper shakers and vinegar bowls, there were no utensils, and from the dishes, there were only dishes of cold meat in vegetable oil, pickles, plums and sour milk in wooden cups. Many servants in violet-colored velvet caftans with gold embroidery stood before the sovereign, bowed to him at the waist, and two in a row went for food. Soon they returned, carrying two hundred roasted swans on golden platters. This started lunch. When the swans had been eaten, the servants left the chamber in pairs and returned with three hundred roasted peacocks, whose loose tails swayed over each dish like a fan. The peacocks were followed by kulebyaki, kurniki, meat and cheese pies, pancakes of all possible varieties, crooked pies and pancakes. The dinner continued. At first, various jellies were placed on the tables; then cranes with a spicy potion, pickled roosters with ginger, boneless hens and ducks with cucumbers. Then they brought different stews and three kinds of fish soup: white chicken, black chicken and saffron chicken. Behind the ear they served hazel grouse with plums, geese with millet and black grouse with saffron. “... The royal cooks distinguished themselves on this day. Lemon kali, spun kidneys and crucian carp with lamb have never been so good for them ... The hares in noodles were also good and tasty, and the guests, no matter how loaded they were, did not miss either the quails with garlic sauce, or the larks with onions and saffron.

The description of the feast by A. N. Tolstoy is colorful. Indeed, in the 16th century, grand ducal and royal feasts began with a roast, namely, with fried swans, which were considered royal food. If for some reason they were not on the table, then this was considered offensive to the guests and was regarded as insufficient respect for them. However, the strictest ban was imposed on the use of many types of meat - especially on hare and veal. Remains historical fact that in 1606 the boyars managed to incite a crowd against False Dmitry I, prompting her to break into the Kremlin, only with the message that the tsar was not real, because he was eating veal.

Since the 17th century, the cuisine of the nobility has become increasingly complex and refined. She not only collects, combines and generalizes the experience of previous centuries, but also creates on its basis new, more complex versions of old dishes. For the boyar cuisine of that time, the extraordinary abundance of dishes up to 50 in one dinner becomes remarkable, and at the royal table their number grows to 150-200. The desire to give the table a pompous look is manifested in a sharp increase in the size of the dishes themselves. The largest swans, geese, turkeys, the largest sturgeon or beluga are selected. Sometimes they are so large that three or four people can barely lift them. The artificial embellishment of dishes knows no bounds: palaces are built from foodstuffs, fantastic animals of gigantic proportions. The craving for deliberate splendor also affected the duration of court dinners: 6-8 hours in a row - from two in the afternoon to ten in the evening. They included almost a dozen courses, each of which consisted of one and a half to two dozen dishes of the same type, for example, from a dozen varieties of fried game or salted fish, from two dozen types of pancakes or pies. Various fish dishes were highly valued, which were even more expensive than game. Our ancestors believed that the more fish on the table and the larger it is, the higher the honor for the guests. Russian chefs have achieved such perfection in their art that they could “turn” fish into “roosters”, “hens”, “geese”, “ducks”, not only giving the dishes the shape of these birds, but even imitating their taste.

Introduction

Pies in Rus' began to bake a very long time ago. Pies were prepared and consumed in Rus' at first exclusively on holidays.

The pie replaced a full meal - the fillings were very diverse: meat and fish, vegetables and fruits, mushrooms and cereals, berries, herbs and eggs. They took pies with them on the road, to arable land, in the field.

Russian cuisine knows a lot of recipes for a variety of pies, baked and fried. They differ in the composition and method of preparing the dough (yeast, puff, unleavened, etc.), in appearance (open, closed, small and large, round and square, etc.), in fillings (with meat, fish, mushrooms , berries, vegetables, cereals, cottage cheese). All the features of Russian pies cannot be listed. Each locality has its own rules, its own traditions and its own secrets.

Pies occupy a prominent and, moreover, always a place of honor on the Russian table. These truly national products have come down to us from ancient times, avoiding any kind of foreign influence. In Rus', a pie is a symbol of homeliness, comfort, the smell of pies meant a settled home and a friendly family.

In a classic national Russian dinner, pies always come after fish, a fish dish, so they are followed by another second - roast or porridge; in a simpler Russian dinner, they follow either immediately after the soup or after the second course.

1. The history of pies in Rus'

The very word "pie", derived from the old Russian word "feast", indicates that not a single solemn feast could do without pies. At the same time, each festival corresponded to a special type of pies, hence the variety of Russian pies, both in appearance and in dough, fillings and taste.

Pies are mentioned in ancient book traveler Adam Olearius, who said: “By the way, they (Russians) have a special kind of biscuit, like pate, or rather pfapkuhene, which they call “pie”; these pies are the size of a wedge of butter, but somewhat larger and oblong. They give them a stuffing of finely chopped fish or meat and onions and bake them in cow's oil, and in fasting in vegetable oil; their taste is not without pleasantness. Each one of them treats his guest with this dish, if he means to receive it well.

Of course, from this meager description it is difficult to get a complete picture of what kind of pies our ancestors baked, exactly how they were prepared and how they were served. Olearius described far from all varieties of pies, of which there were countless in Ancient Rus'.

Russian ritual dishes are inconceivable without pies. Especially if we are talking about family holidays and rites. No birthday table, for example, was complete without cabbage pie. And on Epiphany holidays they baked pies-crosses from sour dough. Some housewives put a coin or a button in them “for good luck”. Funeral dinners also ended with a pie, when it was taken out of the house of the deceased on a large dish surrounded by candles and distributed to passers-by and beggars on the street.

Once Ivan the Terrible arranged a sumptuous feast for his brethren of 700 guardsmen. The king's servants in velvet caftans brought one dish after another. It is known that after numerous appetizers in the form of pickles, fried swans and peacocks, there was a huge variety of baked goods on the table, among which were kulebyaks, kurniki, pies with meat and cheese, pancakes of all possible kinds, crooked pies and pancakes.

Special traditions relate to pies that were baked on name days. On the day of the name day, it was customary to bake pies with both sweet and salty fillings and send them to relatives and friends as a kind of invitation to the holiday. They sent out exactly as many pies as they planned to invite guests. The one who brought the pies put them on the table with the words: "The birthday boy ordered to bow to the pies and asked for bread to eat." Godfather and mothers used to send sweet cakes as a token of special respect. In some Russian provinces, instead of pies, so-called "birthday people" were sent to relatives - large buns without filling, decorated with raisins on top. One such pie was usually brought to each house.

As for the house of the birthday man himself, they baked a special birthday cake - “loaf”, which was broken in the midst of the festivities over the head of the hero of the occasion. Then the filling (usually raisins and nuts) fell on the head of the birthday man, and the guests at that time said: “So that gold and silver fall on you like that.”

The presence of a pie on the home table was considered at that time a guarantee of well-being. Young girls were taught to bake pies from a young age. Any marriageable girl should have been able to bake pies to perfection, because, according to old Russian tradition, the next day after the wedding, the young bride treated guests with a pie of her own preparation, who judged the housekeeping of the future hostess.

Russian cuisine has preserved a lot of recipes for pies, which have been worked out for centuries, passed down from generation to generation. And each housewife tried to bring something of her own, personal to the preparation of pies and pies. Pies differed in composition (with fish, meat, vegetable and sweet fillings); according to the method of preparing the dough: initially, pies and pies (just like pancakes and pancakes) were prepared from sour dough, as well as from yeast, puff, unleavened and shortbread. Pies differed in shape: open, closed, small and large, round and square, flat and in the form of hats. There were different ways heat treatment of pies and pies - they were fried, baked, stewed.

Pies were revered in Russia sometimes higher than bread. No wonder Russian proverbs say: “The hut is not red with corners, but red with pies”, “Red is the threshing floor with haystacks, and the table is with pies”. The presence of a pie on the Russian table spoke primarily of the well-being of the family, of its prosperity.

The composition and components used for the manufacture of pastries depended primarily on the wealth of the family. For example, in the families of peasants they were baked from rye flour dark color and lighter wheat. Usually they were large, the size reached a man's fist. The filling was cottage cheese, as well as peas, porridge, fish and sometimes meat. Wealthy families used sifted and always white wheat flour.

I wonder what they were lubricated with? For this, oatmeal and pea flour were used. These components gave the finished oven product a bright red color. By the way, today hardly every girl at the age of 18 knows how to bake them. Rather, she would prefer to buy it if she suddenly needs this pastry. And before, all the girls of this age baked, and they did it just fine. According to old customs, the young wife had to make a cake on the second day after the wedding. And according to what his taste will be, they judged the housekeeping of a woman.

Russian pies occupied a special place in Russian cuisine: not a single holiday could do without them. They baked birthday, christening, wedding Russian pies; from unleavened, yeast, puff pastry; open and closed; small pies and large pies; with all kinds of fillings: with eggs and onions, with mushrooms and potatoes, beef and lamb, from fish - rybniki, from chicken - kurniki, from berries - berries.

No wonder there was a proverb: "You will wrap everything in a pie." Russian pies baked for someone on the road before leaving home were called plantains. There were special Russian bread pies - they cut off the crust from them, and ate the filling with spoons. In general, you can’t list all types of Russian pies. Up to 10 types of Russian pies and pies were served daily in only one Testov tavern, and in just a year there were 3,700 types!

2. Types of pies in Russian cuisine

2.1 History of the wedding cake (loaf)

Since pagan times, in Rus', a loaf was an obligatory attribute of a wedding and its main symbol. And he appeared at the celebration not at the end, as a tasty and beautiful gift, but at the very beginning of the wedding feast, when the young, after the wedding, for the first time crossed the threshold of the house in which they were going to live (most often the groom's house). The “newly made” mother-in-law took out the loaf, and the young, breaking off pieces and dipping them in salt, ate them, in some versions they fed each other. And at the end of the evening, a man (most often a matchmaker) cut the loaf into equal parts and the young people treated them to guests. By the way, according to the decoration with which the piece came across, the guest could predict his near future.

We repeat that the loaf was never considered a dessert, but carried symbolic meaning wedding ceremony. Therefore, both its production and presentation were subject to strict laws. Only cheerful, not grumpy women, not widows with two or more children, better than those of different sexes, had the right to bake a wedding loaf. After all, to this day it is believed that through food, especially through baking, when the hands of the master touch the dough for a long time, both energy and information are transmitted. It was believed that along with a piece of the “right” pie, young people received happiness, prosperity, the opportunity to have many children, well, or at least a good mood.

From this, such strict criteria for the selection of "loaf girls", because in their hands, in the literal sense, is the happiness of the future family. And given that the process of making and baking the loaf was accompanied by special ritual songs, the “loaf women” should still have a good voice and hearing. Indeed, from a false note, the dough could “not rise”, and this was considered a sign of trouble.

Of particular importance and meaning was indulged in decorating the wedding cake. Let's start with the fact that the cake must be round. This form is both a pagan image of the sun and a symbol of the endless cycle of life. Along the edge of the pie was another symbol of infinity - a scythe. In the center, a symbol of true love, a pair of doves facing each other and touching their beaks. The same symbol was also duplicated on the towel, on which the loaf was served. Sometimes instead of doves, in a more refined version, swans were depicted in the same mise-en-scene. Necessarily a branch of viburnum, considered in Rus' a symbol of fertility. By the way, viburnum could also be used as a filling option.

2.2 Types of pies in Rus'.

All Russian pies in the old days had an oblong shape and different sizes: the big ones were called: pirogues, kulebyaks, small pirozhki. In fast days, they were stuffed with lamb, beef and hare meat, and several meats together, for example: lamb and beef lard, also meat and fish, along with an addition of porridge or noodles. On Shrovetide they baked yarn pies with cottage cheese and eggs in milk, in cow butter, with fish together and with eggs, or with meat, as the fish dish prepared in the form of cutlets was called.

HARDENING. Its name comes from a special filling called nakrepka - that is, loose porridge of yeast dough tightly fixed, as if pulled together by fish layers, stuffed with friable porridge (buckwheat, oatmeal or rice), on top of which thin slices of salted fish are tightly placed, the name of the filling is - “Nakrepok”, that is, porridge fixed, as if pulled together by fish layers, gave the name to this pie, common in the Pskov and Tver regions.

VEKOSHNIKI. The old name for pies made according to the principle "leftovers are sweet." If from yesterday’s hearty fast dinner there were leftover pieces of fish or meat (in the old days called “vekosh”), which, of course, it’s a pity to throw away, but they already look unsightly and obviously won’t decorate the dining table, the zealous hostess rolled out a piece of dough and stuffed it with all kinds lying around food, put it in the oven, and it turned out a wonderful dish for dinner ..

KALINNIK. One of the oldest Russian pies, where the berry was not put into the filling, but, after being dried, it was ground into powder, brewed with boiling water into mashed potatoes, on which the rye flour dough was kneaded, sugar was not put in and baked in the form thick flatbread without filling. areas. They say that this, one of the oldest Russian pies, is still preserved in the Kaluga region and in the south of Smolensk.

JARS HARNESSED. These are triangular pies made of steep dough, kneaded in vegetable oil, stuffed with cheese, eggs or jam, which was placed in only one corner. They sifted the flour, kneaded a stiff dough, adding water, a tablespoon of butter and salt, let it “rest” for half an hour, and then cut out cakes from thinly rolled dough, which were supplied with filling, pinched with a triangle and spun in oil.

“Yarn” is one of the most ancient types of frying in Russian cuisine. We can say that this is a Russian version of deep fat, only the product does not “float” in fat, but is cooked in contact with the surface of the pan, semi-immersed in pre-calcined oil.

BORKANNIK. In Estonian and Finnish, "porkan" means "carrot". In areas where Russians lived next to the Finnish peoples (for example, in the Pskov and Novgorod provinces), a rye or rye-wheat pie stuffed with carrots and hard-boiled eggs is called “porkannik” or “borkannik”. Yeast dough is stuffed with boiled fried carrots, onions, eggs and seasoned with cumin or dill. To others it will seem fresh, but magnificent - like a Chukhonian young lady

GUBNIK. The best of the best: delicious Pskov mushroom pie. To be honest, I don’t know why it’s called that, but the second name is camelina, if fresh mushrooms went into the filling. In the most mushroom time of the year, when it’s strange to think about dry mushrooms, the hostess will knead the yeast dough, put it under a wet towel for about three hours and, while it fits, she will knead a couple of times. The filling is prepared in a wide frying pan: salted or fresh mushrooms (salted are tastier) are fried in vegetable oil with onions and black pepper. When the filling is closed and the edges are pinched, holes are made in the upper part for steam to escape. And here's another interesting thing: it would be nice to grease the top of the cake with black tea before putting it in the oven, "for bite, color and smell."

CHAPILG. Now a closed thinly rolled pie fried in a frying pan made of sour dough on yogurt, stuffed with potatoes, cottage cheese or pumpkin is called either Adyghe or Ingush. Indeed, various variations of chapilga are now popular and loved by the peoples of the Caucasus and are considered a national dish and national pride, but he got there from Russian cuisine through the Kuban and Terek.

RUSSIAN KURNIK - a complex pie with cereals and chicken, inside shifted with pancakes, was prepared for a long time only for the wedding table. During the time of Ivan the Terrible, kurniki were served for every celebration.

RUSSIAN KULEBIAKA - an elongated pie with several layers of minced meat, has gained its popularity in the world thanks to French chefs. They, working in Russia, adapted the recipe to the requirements of "haute cuisine", giving the original Russian dish a European chic. Sometimes the filling is applied in several rows. In this case, in order to prevent the bottom crust from sticking (hardening) of the kulebyaka and to maintain clear divisions between the rows of the filling, they are shifted with thin dough pancakes baked in advance. At the same time, this or that porridge is always put in the lower layer, and fish or meat, mushrooms, onions are always placed in the upper layer.

RASTEGAI - pies with different fillings, which were visible through the hole on the top, where melted butter or broth was poured on the table when served. These pies were considered the best in Moscow taverns, they were frozen and sent to St. Petersburg. Pies were peddled on the streets of Russian cities.

Baba pie occupies a special place in Russian cuisine. Babs are high-shaped baked goods made from rich yeast dough, a kind of Easter cake. But unlike Easter cakes, they are baked at any time, and not only on Easter, and are usually served with tea or coffee. In former times, there were a great many similar products: rum and saffron women, lace and heavy, transparent and chocolate, on sour cream and on yolks, etc.

2.3 Pies. History of occurrence

One of the varieties of pie is pies. Pirozhki is a pie in miniature. Pies began to be prepared as long ago as the pie itself. In peasant families, it is customary to eat from one large bowl, which is primarily associated with practical purposes (the presence of a small amount of utensils, lack of water for washing dishes, etc.). Therefore, Russian people are used to cooking food for everyone at once. Hence the pies, large in size, which were not initially cut, but broken off by each member of the family: a large piece went to the man - the owner (father, grandfather), then smaller pieces were broken off by the sons, after them - women, small slices of the pie went to the children. Naturally, such a use of the pie was not entirely convenient, and the housewives began to form small-sized pies with filling. It was convenient to eat such pies, they were taken with them in the field, they were distributed to children on the street.

What kind of pies and pies are not in Russian cuisine! Open, closed, lattice, round, triangular, low and high, with one type of minced meat and multi-layered, wedding kurniki decorated with dough figures, kulebyaki, pies, cheesecakes, hearth (baked on a hearth in a Russian oven) and spun (fried) ... You can list endlessly, especially since most Russian terms related to baking, alas, are almost forgotten.

Pies are served most often as an appetizer. They can also be an independent dish, and as an addition to national soups, especially to fish soup, cabbage soup, borscht. The most common are pies made from yeast dough, but they are also made from unleavened, rich and puff pastry.

There are several traditional forms pies: a boat, a Christmas tree, a saechka, pies, square, triangular, round pies, etc. Their sizes can also be different - from very small (snack bars) to large ones that have to be cut before serving. Most often, pies are called single-portion products, and pies are multi-portion, sliced.

Pies also belong to pies. The name "pie" was formed on a basis that determines appearance products. As you know, a pie is a pie, in which the middle remains unpinched on top. In other words - an unclosed, "unbuttoned", pie.

The most common forms of patties:

boat - the filling is placed in the middle of the cake, covered with the edges of the dough, pinched, and the pie is turned over with the seam down:

herringbone - they do it in the same way as a boat, but the seam is pinched in the form of a Christmas tree and the pie is not turned over;

saechka - the pie is given a cylindrical shape, one side is lubricated with oil, and the products are laid on sheets close to each other, allowed to distance and baked;

Moscow pie - the dough is rolled out in a circle, the filling is placed in the middle, the edges of the dough are lifted and pinched so that the middle remains open.

Novotroitsky pie - roll out the dough in a circle, put the filling, close the edges of the dough and pinch it with a Christmas tree, but so that there is a hole in the middle;

carp, kalachik - the dough is rolled out with an elongated cake, the filling is placed on one half, covered with the other half of the cake. Press the dough along the seam well. The product is shaped like a ball, bending it so that the corners are connected;

belyashi - the dough is rolled out in the form of round cakes, minced meat is placed in the middle, and the edges of the dough are lifted and pinched with a Christmas tree, a round hole is left in the middle.

3. Features of the preparation of yeast dough

3.1 Steamed and steamless cooking methods

The most characteristic of Russian cuisine were pies and pies made from yeast dough. In manuscripts of the 16th-early 17th centuries. puff pastry products are mentioned for the first time. Simple unleavened dough was known much earlier than yeast dough, and if at first pies were made from such dough, now it is used mainly for making boiled products, and yeast and yeast are preferred for baking pies. complex types unleavened dough (puff, shortbread).

For centuries, techniques for preparing yeast dough have been developed, a tradition has developed for using one or another dish and utensils: sourdough, bowl (cooperage or clay) for making sourdough, sourdough - fabric for covering dough, veselka or slingshot (whorl from the rhizome of a young Christmas tree) - for stirring sourdough and liquid dough and others. Yeast dough was prepared by sponge and non-spare methods.

With the sponge method, yeast (crushed or diluted with a small amount of water) was added to warmed milk (water or buttermilk), flour was added, stirred and left to ferment. A solution of salt and sugar, the remaining flour and milk (water or buttermilk), eggs were added to the prepared dough, and the dough was kneaded. Melted butter was usually added at the end of the kneading, the dough was left in a warm place for 1.5-2 hours for secondary fermentation. In the process of fermentation, it was crushed. Such dough was often used for making pies, kurniks, and Easter cakes.

With the unpaired method, all the raw materials put according to the recipe were kneaded at once, and the oil was also added at the end of the kneading. The fermentation process in this case lasted 2.2-4 hours, and during this time the dough was punched several times. This dough is suitable for making pies and cheesecakes. Yeast puff pastry was prepared from ordinary yeast dough prepared in the sourdough method, for which the finished dough was cooled, rolled into a rectangular layer, which was covered with softened butter, then folded in a special way in several layers, the edges were pinched. This dough was suitable for making various cheesecakes and pies.

3.2 Baking pies in a Russian oven

They baked pies in adobe stoves on coals, for which they laid the pie on a special baking sheet or pan, greased with animal fat or vegetable oil. Pies were often smeared on top with eggs, sour cream or other products and baked in an oven. It goes without saying that pies baked in the oven are incomparable with those pies cooked on stovetop heat: thanks to the uniform heat of the Russian oven, the pies are well baked and rise, become ruddy with a crispy crust and have a special aroma.

In addition, such pies are much more beneficial for the body, because they go through a special stage of heat treatment, which is possible only in a Russian oven: this is baking in the heat and simultaneous exposure to steam. I must say that the preparation of pies on the stove is traditionally not characteristic of Russian cuisine and began to be introduced into it with the penetration of Western-type stoves into Russia. And the distribution of such plates began in the era of the reign of Peter I.

The long existence of pies as a favorite food is largely due not only to their high taste qualities, but also to the fact that they turned out to be, one might say, a convenient form of concentrated nutrition. Often in the pie literally consisted of the usual homemade dinner of a Russian person, that is, bread, cabbage soup, porridge, since pies were most often stuffed with cabbage, turnips, wine, mushrooms. Therefore, with the expansion of various forms of out-of-home work, pies began to be taken with them to work, on the road. It was during this period that the proverb “You wrap everything in a pie” was born.

In a classic national Russian dinner, pies always come after fish, a fish dish, so they are followed by another second - roast or porridge; in a simpler Russian dinner, they follow either immediately after the soup or after the second course.

With mid-nineteenth in. it has become customary, especially in restaurants, to serve kulebyaki, porridge pies or pies with the corresponding first courses - meat broth, cabbage soup or fish soup. AT late XIX- the beginning of the XX century. puff pies began to be served also as an appetizer for breakfast or as an independent dish for afternoon tea and dinner. Sweet pies are served with tea.

The dough of a Russian pie should always be sour, yeasty, or lively, living, as it was figuratively called in the old days. As a starter, yogurt, sour cream, beer, mash, whey can be used along with yeast. Often, sour components are combined in different combinations, and this makes it possible to diversify the consistency and taste of sour dough. In the past, bran-yeast dough was often used as a starter for pies: the bran was brewed with boiling water, allowed to stand for a while, then diluted with warm water, yeast was added and left overnight. It was believed that pies made from sourdough dough are tastier, better, and more dough is obtained. At present, a safer, more fast way dough preparation.

The rich ingredients that make up the dough for Russian pies are also varied. First of all, milk, and then different kinds fats (vegetable, creamy, beef fat) and, to a much lesser extent, eggs. The choice of fat is usually related to the choice of toppings. So, vegetable oils are traditionally used in pies with vegetable filling and fish, beef kidney fat is used in pies with meat filling, butter and ghee are used in poultry pies and kulebyaki.

Freedom in choosing the main components of the dough - flour, sourdough, liquid, muffin - has led to the emergence of numerous variations, as a result of which almost every housewife's pies bear a certain imprint of individuality. At the same time, certain traditions have developed that establish the proportions of the main parts of the dough.

The dough for unsweetened pies should not be too dense in consistency, dry, as they used to say in the old days, that is, loose. For this, a thick, but not steep (with the exception of dough for Kolobovy pies) dough is prepared, most often rich, and "richness is achieved with milk or butter and, to a lesser extent, with the help of eggs, which contribute to the density and dryness of the dough. So, per 1 kg flour should account for about 0.5 liters of liquid, including water, milk, all fats and eggs.As for eggs, their usual proportion in pie dough is very low - 1 egg for every 800 g of flour, or 1.25 eggs per 1 kg of flour.

More eggs and butter are placed in the dough for sweet pies than in the dough for unsweetened pies, and, in addition, they make it somewhat steeper in consistency and roll it into a thicker layer to prevent sugar and sweet filling (jam) from corroding the dough. In savory pies, on the contrary, the advantage is a large amount of filling and a thin, dry crust. The only exceptions are kulebyaki, where the dough at the bottom of the pie is made a little thicker to increase the layer of filling, but the consistency remains the same uncool as for other savory pies.

The dough for pies is sometimes allowed to rise three times and certainly twice, each time beating and crushing it again. This guarantees good baking of the dough and excellent taste of the product, and with a high percentage of yeast and a generally sour start in the dough, it makes the acid invisible after baking the pies.

4. Stuffing Russian pies

The filling for Russian pies is most often prepared from one of any product. It can be a filling of vegetables (cabbage, peas, carrots, turnips, potatoes, onions, sorrel), mushrooms (dry, fresh boiled, fried and salted of all kinds), a variety of steep cereals with a high oil content (usually rice), vyazigi and fish, meat, poultry (usually chicken), cottage cheese, eggs, game. Traditional fillings are porridge with onions and eggs, cabbage with eggs, mushrooms with onions and, finally, meat or fish (or elm) with rice and eggs.

Fillings of all kinds (except fish) are placed in pies only boiled, cooled. The fish filling can also be made from raw fish, which is why such pies are baked about twice as long as the others. Salted red fish is also used in pies, usually in combination with three types of cereals - rice, buckwheat and sago. The vyazigi filling needs preliminary special preparation, which will be discussed below. As for the fillings for sweet pies, most of them are made from jam (apple, currant, raspberry, cherry, strawberry, strawberry, blueberry, lingonberry), raisins with rice, prunes and figs, poppy seeds with sugar, dried bird cherry with sugar and honey. Less often in Russian cuisine (and even then recently) pies are made with fresh fruit and berries, mainly with apples, cherries, strawberries, blueberries.

The fillings should be juicy, fatty, spicier, sharper, more expressive than the normal taste dictates. This means that savory fillings should be a little saltier, a little spicier, a little fatter, and sweet ones a little sweeter. Such a “cloak” is necessary, since the dough absorbs some of the salt and sugar, and the normally salted filling in the pie may be too bland.

5. The difference between pies in shape and color.

The appearance of pies is characterized by size, shape, configuration and color. A sheet of newspaper serves as a guideline for the size of the pie. Most often they make pies the size of a quarter of a sheet or an eighth of it. Pies smaller than a sixteenth part are already called pies. Kulebyaki are made the size of half a sheet in length and a quarter of a sheet in width, that is, long, but narrow. Kulebyaki large sizes, which do not fit on a baking sheet and, due to their size and thickness, require longer baking and high temperatures, they were usually baked on the hearth, that is, in the place in the Russian stove where firewood is placed. After the burning of firewood, the coals were raked out and pies were placed on the red-hot hearth, which were therefore called hearth pies, or pads. Podoviki usually had a denser and thicker bottom crust than other pies.

A rectangle with an aspect ratio of 3:2 is the predominant form of Russian pies, but there are also pies of other shapes - round, square, triangular, long elongated (or long), and curly.

Pies also differ in the type of dough overlay. They can be closed, or deaf, when the dough surrounds the filling from all sides; half-closed, or lattice, when the dough is placed on top of the pie in the form of a lattice or ladders, and, finally, open, when the dough surrounds the filling only from below and from the sides, and the top remains completely open.

Pies stuffed with meat, fish, poultry, as well as complex and loose stuffing (mushrooms, onions, rice, eggs) are never left open. Such pies should always be carefully pinched on all sides so that the filling does not dry out and the pie does not lose its charm. Besides, open pie with a complex filling it is difficult to cut and serve - it crumbles, breaks, its appearance quickly deteriorates. But a simple filling, which also contains enough of its own moisture, such as cottage cheese, cabbage, jam, apples, can either not be closed at all if the cake is small, or covered with a braided dough to keep the filling stronger.

There is another category of semi-closed pies that are somewhat of an exception to the rule: they are covered with dough and on top, but not completely sealed, so that a narrow gap remains in the middle of the pie, which expands a little during baking, and therefore it seems that the pie seems to be unbuttoned. Part of the filling (a piece of fish, carrot) should be visible in this slit, which gives the pie a funny look. Such pies - they are usually made very small - are called pies.

Finally, externally, the pies also differ in color. They can be dark, i.e. glossy brown-leather color, white, i.e. light or grayish (depending on the flour), almost untouched by fire and only slightly browned from the underside, ruddy or well browned, golden brown. , but without gloss, matte, with small light patches and, finally, “poured” - with a thick layer of white flour and a crust and on the sides, through which a delicate golden blush of a toasted crust appears.

6. Secrets of making delicious pies

The main secret of successful baking is a well-kneaded dough that has risen three times. Each time the dough is kneaded with hands and allowed to come up again, and only after the third time do they start cutting it. After the cake is molded, the finished product is allowed to rise again before baking, then sent to.

The flour for the dough is sifted twice, so it is saturated with oxygen and the dough becomes airy. When kneading yeast dough, all products should be warm - this will help reduce the rise time. Milk or water for kneading should be warmed to room temperature, but not hot. Milk pies are tastier and have a smooth crust.

Excess sugar causes the dough to settle, pies become heavy and burn quickly when baked. Butter or fat is better not to melt, soften to the density of sour cream and add to the dough at the last punch. This will help reduce the proofing time. Salt is added to the flour at the very end, when the dough has already fermented.

To keep the bottom of the cake dry, the baking dish should be lightly sprinkled with starch. There should be no drafts in the room where the kneading and cutting of the dough takes place, otherwise the pies will not rise.

Both the dough and the dough should not be re-done, otherwise the pies will be sour. For more than three hours, the dough does not part, it needs to be molded and baked pies.

The top of closed pies is smeared with butter, eggs or milk, this gives the pastry an appetizing look. The most beautiful color is obtained by smearing with whipped yolks, they are evenly applied with a pastry brush.

When laying out the cake on a baking sheet or in a form, an empty space is left around it - this way the cake will be better baked, it will have a place to “sprout”.

Do not open the oven during the first twenty minutes of baking the cake. It is better to immediately put the cake in a non-hot oven over medium heat. After twenty minutes, you can check the cake by slightly opening the oven and adding a little heat. If the cake is tall, it is baked on the lowest fire so that it is completely baked.

However, you cannot bake a yeast cake for a long time - it becomes dry. If the filling is already ready, the cake is baked for no more than thirty minutes, pies - twenty. Pies with a raw filling take longer to bake, the dough should not be put in such pies a lot: the filling should also have time to reach without drying the crust.

If you pour salt under the mold on a separate baking sheet, the cake will never burn. If the top of the cake starts to burn, you can cover it with oiled parchment.

The easiest way to remove the cake from the mold is to place it on a damp towel immediately after baking.

The readiness of the cake is checked by lightly pressing a clean finger on the surface, if the hole is immediately restored - the cake is ready, if it remains crushed - the cake is sent to the oven for baking.

The finished hot cake is not cut, it is allowed to cool. In extreme cases, the knife is heated in boiling water, wiped and cut with sharp movements so that the cake does not wrinkle.

The finished cake is covered with a clean towel and allowed to cool in the same room where it was baked.

Bibliography

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