The feasts of Russian princes, boyars and tsars were not inferior to the famous Roman orgies with their luxury, an abundance of food and drinks. The sophisticated gluttony of the feasting and gastronomic fantasies of the chefs knew no bounds. Ancient sources brought to us dozens of menus of "great" feasts.

Honey was the main joyful intoxicating drink at that time. Honey was an obligatory drink of the festive meal of the then nobility. The Laurentian Chronicle reports how in 945 Princess Olga ordered the Drevlyans to boil a lot of honey, allegedly in order to celebrate a feast for Prince Igor, who they had killed. The tragic role that honey played in the insidious performance played out by the vengeful wife of the deceased prince indicates that in those days the Russians knew how to cook quite strong honey.

The same chronicle tells of a grand feast arranged in 996 in honor of Olga by Prince Vladimir. The prince ordered to cook 300 barrels of honey for the feast. Honey remained the favorite drink of Russians until the end of the 17th century. In the era of Peter I, meads fade into the background, and overseas wines and vodkas take their place. This is largely due to the fact that the harsh climate of the country did not allow the active development of viticulture and, as a result, winemaking. However, of course, the excellent quality of the honeys themselves, their huge variety, also played an important role.

However, back to the feasts. We learn about many significant dates from the history of our fatherland from the descriptions of this or that feast. For example, the earliest mention of Moscow is also associated with a feast held by Prince Yuri Dolgoruky in honor of Prince Svyatoslav Olgovich and his squad. These feasts were of a “democratic” nature: people of all classes came to the feast, and the more honorable the feast was, the more heterogeneous the composition of the guests was.

The relationship was based on such a concept as “honor and place”, that is, the guest was honored and given a place at the table in accordance with the place that he occupied in society. The grand dukes themselves treated the guests, ate and drank with them. The well-known Russian historian A. V. Tereshchenko writes about this: This was before the oppression of Russia by the Tatars.

Asiatic pride and inaccessibility have corrupted ancient meritorious customs. Over time, feasts became less democratic, the strict order of regaling guests and localism occupied an increasing place at them. In Domostroy, a mid-16th-century monument that reflects the norms of behavior of that time, advice is given on how to behave at a feast: “When you are called to a feast, do not sit in a place of honor, suddenly someone from among those invited will be more honorable than you; and the one who invited you will come and say: “Give him a place,” and then you will have to go to the last place in shame; but if you are invited, when you enter, sit in the last place, and when the one who invited you comes and says to you: “Friend, sit higher!” then you will be honored by the rest of the guests, for everyone who ascends will humble himself, and the humble will ascend. When they put before you various dishes and drinks, and if someone is more noble than you among those invited, do not start eating before him; if you are an honored guest, then start eating the food first.

Among the first serving at feasts in Russia, there was usually sour cabbage with herrings. Nearby, as snacks, caviar was put in different forms: white, that is, freshly salted, red lightly salted, black strong salting. Sturgeon, beluga, stellate sturgeon, sturgeon, pike, and tench caviar were the most widespread. Caviar was served with pepper and chopped onion, flavored with vinegar and olive oil to taste. Caviar was supplemented with balyks, which in the old days were called "backs", and loose (a kind of dried) fish: salmon, whitefish, sturgeon, beluga, etc. Botvinya was served with this fish. Steamed fish followed, followed by fried fish.
From this abundance of snacks passed to the ear. Russian cuisine knows all types of fish soup: pike, sterlet, crucian, perch, bream, yazeva, zander, team... Along with fish soup, kali were served: salmon with lemons, whitefish with plums, sterlet with cucumbers. Each ear was followed by its own, fleshy, that is, fish pulp dough with seasoning, baked in the form of various figures (circles, crescents, “mean temptations”, a pig, a goose, a duck, etc.). An obligatory dish was also pies and pies stuffed with minced fish, with screech, herring, and whitefish.
However, this is not all. After the fish soup, they ate salted - fresh and salted fish in brine (cucumber, plum, lemon, beetroot) and always "under the zvar" was the name given to truly Russian sauces with horseradish, garlic, mustard. These dishes also relied on pies, only not hearth (baked), but spun (fried). After eating all these dishes, they indulged in boiled crayfish.

The more the feasts lost their "democratic" foundations, the more magnificent and luxurious they became. Exact description ceremonies for serving dishes and meals in the 16th century are cited in his novel "The Silver Prince" by A.K. Tolstoy.
During the feast, which Ivan the Terrible arranged for his brethren of 700 guardsmen, on the tables, except for salt shakers, pepper shakers and vinegar bowls, there were no utensils, and from the dishes, there were only dishes of cold meat in vegetable oil, pickles, plums and sour milk in wooden cups. Many servants in violet-colored velvet caftans with gold embroidery stood before the sovereign, bowed to him at the waist, and two in a row went for food. Soon they returned, carrying two hundred roasted swans on golden platters. This started lunch. When the swans had been eaten, the servants left the chamber in pairs and returned with three hundred roasted peacocks, whose loose tails swayed over each dish like a fan. The peacocks were followed by kulebyaki, kurniki, meat and cheese pies, pancakes of all possible varieties, crooked pies and pancakes. The dinner continued. At first, various jellies were placed on the tables; then cranes with a spicy potion, pickled roosters with ginger, boneless hens and ducks with cucumbers. Then they brought different stews and three kinds of fish soup: white chicken, black chicken and saffron chicken. Behind the ear they served hazel grouse with plums, geese with millet and black grouse with saffron. “... The royal cooks distinguished themselves on this day. Lemon kali, spun kidneys and crucian carp with lamb have never been so successful ... The hares in noodles were also good and tasty, and the guests, no matter how loaded, did not miss either the quails with garlic sauce, or the larks with onions and saffron.

The description of the feast by A. N. Tolstoy is colorful. Indeed, in the 16th century, grand ducal and royal feasts began with a roast, namely, with fried swans, which were considered royal food. If for some reason they were not on the table, then this was considered offensive to the guests and was regarded as insufficient respect for them. However, the strictest ban was imposed on the use of many types of meat - especially on hare and veal. It remains a historical fact that in 1606 the boyars managed to incite a crowd against False Dmitry I, prompting them to break into the Kremlin, only by reporting that the tsar was not real, because he was eating veal.

Since the 17th century, the cuisine of the nobility has become increasingly complex and refined. She not only collects, combines and generalizes the experience of previous centuries, but also creates on its basis new, more complex versions of old dishes. For the boyar cuisine of that time, the extraordinary abundance of dishes up to 50 in one dinner becomes remarkable, and at the royal table their number grows to 150-200. The desire to give the table a pompous look is manifested in a sharp increase in the size of the dishes themselves. The largest swans, geese, turkeys, the largest sturgeon or beluga are selected. Sometimes they are so large that three or four people can barely lift them. The artificial embellishment of dishes knows no bounds: palaces are built from foodstuffs, fantastic animals of gigantic proportions. The craving for deliberate splendor also affected the duration of court dinners: 6-8 hours in a row - from two in the afternoon to ten in the evening. They included almost a dozen courses, each of which consisted of one and a half to two dozen dishes of the same type, for example, from a dozen varieties of fried game or salted fish, from two dozen types of pancakes or pies. Various fish dishes were highly valued, which were even more expensive than game. Our ancestors believed that more fish on the table and the larger it is, the higher the honor for the guests. Russian chefs have achieved such perfection in their art that they could “turn” fish into “roosters”, “hens”, “geese”, “ducks”, not only giving the dishes the shape of these birds, but even imitating their taste.

In Russia, from ancient times, baking bread was considered a matter not only responsible, but also honorable. The best bakers and mukoseys, polishers and kalashniks excelled so much in skill and skill that the ambassadors of other states sent Russian bread to European yards. But the first baker in Russia and the court baker of His Imperial Majesty was Dmitry Ivanovich from the Filippov dynasty.

On Tverskaya, opposite Leontievsky Lane in Moscow, stands a building that a hundred years ago was the "empire of the Filippov bakers." There was a rule in the dynasty: “In order to preserve and increase the family heritage, force the son of childhood to comprehend all the wisdom of baking in full”. That is why all the Filippovs, from a young age, defended the oven for days together with ordinary bakers, mastering the difficult craft of baking branded kulebyaks, pies and pies. The ancestor of the future big grain business, Maxim Filippov, arrived in Moscow from the Kaluga province in early XIX century. With the whole family they sold hot rolls and pies with fillings. After his death, his son Ivan Maksimovich continued the business, earning the title of royal baker.

The best

The third of the Filippov dynasty, Dmitry, turned out to be the most talented and successful in the baking field: while still very young, he improved the recipes for pies with fillings - and so successfully that the family's capital began to grow by leaps and bounds. Famous writer Vladimir Gilyarovsky describes Filippov's pies in the book "Moscow and Muscovites": "With good butter, with fresh minced meat, the Piglet pie was so large that sometimes you could have a hearty breakfast ...". Later, Dmitry Ivanovich came up with unique, previously unproduced varieties of bread, found a way to store bakery products for a long time and transport them over long distances. Own bakeries at bakeries were the invention of the Filippovs. And the assortment! No one could compete with the Filippovs in diversity. There are 5-6 types of bread alone. And there’s nothing to say about baking: Dmitry Filippov’s favorite brainchild reflected all his baking talent and imagination. There were simple French buns with a toasted fold, penny loaves, called in everyday life "swindlers", saechki sprinkled with poppy seeds, sesame seeds or coarse salt, vitushki, kalachi and kalachi of all kinds.

Filippovskie shops were always full of buyers. Ready-made kulebyaki, the famous Filippov pies were delivered in best houses Russian nobility and restaurants in both capitals. What are the capitals! The convoys with their rolls and bald poles, baked on straw, even went to Siberia and the Urals. They were frozen in a special way, straight from the oven, hot, transported a thousand miles away, and just before eating they were thawed in damp towels and served somewhere in Irkutsk or Yekaterinburg at dinner parties. For the provincial nobility, Philippian tea parties were a sign of wealth and weight in society.

Bread loves care

When Filippov was asked how he managed to bake such bread, he invariably answered: “Khlebushko, it loves care. Baking is baking, and all the power is in flour ... so that not a speck or a speck of dust. And it’s very simple, ”he certainly ended his speech with his favorite saying. He just cheated. He had secrets, of those that he knew alone and the best and proven Kalashnikovs from the most devoted. And it doesn’t matter that Filippov was the owner of the “empire”, at the stove he stood on a par with a simple baker or a “bread-weight kisser”. The latter monitored the weight of loaves and loaves. And the owner considered it his sacred duty to check the quality of the batch. He did not distinguish between breads. He liked to say: “Black bread is the first food for a worker.” The best was considered coarse White bread from well processed wheat flour. Filippov personally checked a batch of such bread, according to a method that at first glance may seem blasphemous. He wrapped the loaf in a towel and sat down on it with all his many pounds, which made the bread turn into a thin pancake. If after thirty seconds it took its original shape and the crust was not damaged, an approving one was heard: “God bless!”. A batch of freshly baked bread arrived on the shelves and to customers. It was this kind of bread, along with sea otters and saiks, that was sent daily to the northern capital to the royal table.

About saika with raisins

It is not surprising that different tales were circulated among the people about Filippov. Or maybe it's true, it's hard to say now. When, for example, raisins with raisins appeared in Philippov stores, which no one had ever made before, history swam across Moscow. It was masterfully described in his book by the same Vladimir Gilyarovsky. The sovereign dictator of Moscow was then Governor-General Zakrevsky, "before whom everyone trembled." So, every morning, this general was served hot bacon from Filippov for breakfast. “What an abomination! Give the baker Filippov here!” the governor yelled over the morning tea. The servants, not understanding what was the matter, brought the frightened Filippov to the authorities. "What is it? Cockroach? What is it, a-a-a?!” - the general stuttered indignantly, holding out a saika with a baked prusak. “And very simply, Your Excellency…” Filippov muttered in confusion. “What-oh? .. Is it simple for you ?! - like an angry goose, the general stomped. - I'll rot! To Siberia!!! “The highlight is this,” the baker found and ... ate a piece with a cockroach. - "Lie, bastard! Are there raisins with raisins? Go away!" Out of breath, the already middle-aged Filippov ran into the bakery, grabbed a sieve of washed raisins and, to the great horror of the bakers, dumped everything into saech dough ... They say that an hour later he was already treating Zakrevsky with raisins and even received a glass of thanks from him. A day later, in the bakeries, "Filippov" there was no end to the thirsty, there was no tasty novelty, and two days later, convinced of the success, in St.

The best bread for a convict

Dmitry Ivanovich sacredly kept his code of honor, even the Christian conscience: he did not use every opportunity where it was possible to increase capital. From time immemorial, there was a custom in Russia: big holidays- Christmas, Epiphany, Easter, Shrovetide, - as well as on the days of commemoration of the dead and parental Saturdays, send alms to prisoners, or, as they were called in those days, "unhappy." Bakeries received orders from some rich charitable man for a thousand or two rolls, saek, pies and bread, which were transported to prisons on the eve of the festivities. They were also sent to distant penal servitude, where they were divided among the prisoners. The main customer was the merchants, who considered it necessary to save their sinful souls by “saluting” the “unfortunate” for food, hoping that the prisoners in prayers would quickly get through to God. It was here that the bakers gave away their stale and expired goods for the full price! .. Many, but not Filippov. “God marks the rogue! he said. - For the offense of the "unfortunate" the Lord, according to other standards, repays and writes off! ..». Filippov's sacrificial cakes, saiki, sieve and pound breads have always been the freshest, and even sold at a low price...

Don't leave your fatherland

Dmitry Ivanovich did not live to see the revolution, he died in 1908. By this time, the "empire of bakers" experienced no better times. Before his death, Filippov instructed the heirs of the family business: “Do not leave the Fatherland! The trouble is not that our saiks and kulebyaks have stopped buying, but that without Filippov's bread, rye and fur with chaff, a simple peasant cannot survive ... ". The sons followed the father's advice, took care of the family business as best they could. And then... Expropriation, nationalization, repression. The new government drove the craftsmen out of the bakeries. The great heritage of the great masters was forgotten. Irreversibly lost are the unique technologies for baking bread that does not go stale for several days even in the open air, the secrets of long-distance transportation in frozen form, not to mention the unique recipes for real Philippian pies, sytniks and kulebyaks with a screech. I'm sure a lot of people don't even know what it is. Meanwhile, this stuffing was very popular in Russia. Viziga is a dried back string from the sturgeon spine, which, when boiled, turns into a gelatinous transparent mass, making the cake juicy.

Andrey SAVOSTYANOV

What they could, they kept

And yet, some of the secrets of the master have come down to us. For example, it is known that when preparing pike pie for special juiciness, before covering the pie with the top layer of dough, a couple of ice cubes were added.

The recipe for making branded pies has survived to this day. These are pies with a small hole in the top. The filling was made depending on the type of broth to which they were served. Fish pies - to the ear; pies with liver, meat or egg - to meat and chicken broth. Connoisseurs poured hot broth inside the pie, which made the pie even juicier. To do this, the hole on top of the pie was made more elongated, “unbuttoned”, as they used to say in the old days, hence the name. Sterlet pies mixed with sturgeon were served to the sterlet's ear.

Municipal budgetary educational institution

"Average comprehensive school №89

with in-depth study of individual subjects"

Kulebyaka - old Russian dish

Completed:

6th grade student

Gaifullina Liana

Supervisor:

technology teacher

Nikolaeva M.I.

Izhevsk, 2012

Introduction………………………………………………………………………………

1 part. Russian kitchen…………………………………………………………….

1.1 Russian cuisine…………………………………………………………………..

1.2 Fishing in Russia…………………………………………………………..

1.3 Nutritional value of fish…………………………………………………..

1.4 Kulebyaka - representative of the Russian national table………………….

2 Part. Study of the popularity of the Russian dish - kulebyaki…………….

3 Part. Practical part……………………………………………………....

3.1 Technological sequence………………………………………..

3.2 Nutritional value of the dish………………………………………………….

3.3 Calculation of the caloric content of the dish……………………………………………………...

3.4 Calculation of the cost of a dish………………………………………………….

Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………

Bibliography………………………………………………………………...

Introduction

« Eat half full, drink half drunk

Live your life to the fullest .»

Russian proverb

“What kind of kulebyaka did I eat today,

Gentlemen, simply overeating!…”

A.N. Ostrovsky "Mad Money"

“Oh, bright and beautifully decorated Russian land! You are glorified by many beauties: you are famous for many lakes, locally revered rivers and springs, mountains, steep hills, high oak forests, marvelous animals, glorious villages, monastery gardens, temples of God ... - wrote the ancient chronicler. - You are full of everything, Russian land! .. ."

Here, in the vast expanses - from the White Sea in the north to the Black Sea in the south, from the Baltic Sea in the west to the Pacific Ocean in the east, Russians live in the neighborhood with other peoples - a nation that is united in language, culture and way of life.

Cuisine is an integral part of the culture of every nation. It is not for nothing that ethnographers begin their study of the life of any nation by studying its cuisine, because it reflects the history, way of life and customs of the people in a concentrated form. Russian cuisine is no exception in this sense, it is also part of our culture, our history.

Purpose: to explore Russian cuisine, to trace the history of its development, to practice the preparation of some culinary products, for example, kulebyaka.

Relevance: Along with various hamburgers and pizzas that everyone knows about, Russian cuisine is increasingly losing its relevance. But Russian cuisine is part national culture, you need to know the history of its appearance, the taste of its dishes.

Part 1. Russian cuisine

Russian kitchen

The Russian table is widely known abroad mainly for its delicacies: smoked sturgeon back (balyk), sturgeon with horseradish, lightly salted salmon (salmon), red, black and pink (whitefish) caviar, pickled and salted mushrooms (saffron mushrooms and porcini) - components not only a beautiful still life together with crystal clear Moscow vodka, but also subtly harmonizing with it in terms of taste.

However, these individual finished products, moreover, festive ones, despite their sophistication, cannot give a complete picture of Russian cuisine, the originality of the taste of its main hot dishes, and the composition of the Russian national table as a whole.

Russian cuisine, in the form in which it has survived to this day, finally took shape a little over 100 years ago, in the second half of the 19th century. It has gone through a long, thousand-year path of development and has gone through several stages. Each of them left an indelible mark (if we talk about what we mean by Russian cuisine), and they differed quite a lot from the others in the composition of the menu, with the composition of dishes and the technologies for their preparation, that is, they represented a kind of separate cuisine.

There are six such stages: Old Russian cuisine (9th-16th centuries), cuisine of the Moscow state (17th century), cuisine of the Peter and Catherine era (18th century), Petersburg cuisine (end of the 18th century-60s of the 19th century), all-Russian national cuisine (60s of the 19th century - early 20th century), Soviet cuisine (from 1917 until recently).

In the medieval period, most of the Russian national drinks were formed: mead, prepared according to a method close to the production of grape wines, and giving a product close to cognac; drunken birch - a fermentation product of birch sap; hop honey - with the addition of hops to honey, in addition to berry juices; boiled honey - a product similar in technology to beer; kvass, strong drink, beer. In the 40-70s of the 15th century, Russian vodka appeared in Russia.

The main difference between the cuisine of the Muscovite state and the ancient Russian one was that there was a sharp delimitation of the Russian national table according to class. While folk cuisine, starting from the 17th century, is becoming more and more simplified and impoverished, the cuisine of the nobility and especially the nobility (boyars) is becoming more and more complex and refined. Noticeably enriched at this time modest festive table. In the 17th century, all the main types of Russian soups finally took shape, and unknown to medieval Russia salty-spicy-sour soups - kali, hangovers, hodgepodges, pickles, - necessarily containing fermentation, lemon and olives. The appearance of these soups is caused by the extreme spread of drunkenness, the need for intoxicants.

One of the new culinary customs that appeared during the Peter and Catherine era in the Russian cuisine of the ruling classes is the use of appetizers as independent dishes completely isolated from dinner. New alcoholic drinks appeared - ratifia and erofeichi.

Finally, the French school introduced, during the time of St. Petersburg cuisine, into recipes a combination of products (vinaigrettes, salads, side dishes) and precise dosages that were not previously accepted in Russian cuisine, and introduced Russian cuisine to unknown types of Western European kitchen equipment. The Russian stove and the pots and cast irons adapted to it were replaced by a stove with its oven, pots, stewpans, etc.

During the all-Russian national cuisine, the assortment of national Russian soups - cabbage soup, stew, fish soup, pickles, saltworts, botvins, okroshka, prisons - continued to grow from the 18th century to the 20th century various types Western European soups. To a lesser extent than soups, fish dishes retained their advantage on the Russian table by the beginning of the 20th century.

Fish has always been used in Russian cuisine in countless forms: steam or steam, boiled (boiled), body, that is, made in a special way from one fillet, without bones, but with skin, fried, mended (filled with a filling of porridge, onions or mushrooms), stewed, aspic, baked in scales, baked in scales in sour cream, salted (salted), dried, dried in the wind and sun (vobla) and dried in the oven (sushchik). In the northeastern regions of Russia, fish was fermented (sour fish), and in Western Siberia they ate raw frozen fish (stroganina). Until the middle of the 19th century, smoked fish was less common in Russian folk cuisine, which, on the contrary, has recently been widely used in three types - cold smoked, hot smoked and smoked-dried.

In Soviet cuisine, river fish was in abundance, including fish products - smoked fish (balyk), black and red caviar, salted salmon. True, the fish is not a local catch due to its transportation in live-fish cages, the price has risen somewhat. But this did not prevent fish dishes from remaining one of the main dishes on the Russian table.

Fish was the most popular dish in Russia. They divided it into bony and cartilaginous. The first was called black, the second red fish.

Of course, many years ago, as now, red fish was especially valued. But in those days, the same thing was noted as in our days. Look at what V. Dal writes: “On the lower reaches of the Volga, red fish are bought up and all go up to the capitals; the people eat one boiled ear from black fish.

These same fish "migrations" we have the opportunity to observe now. Moreover, even the usual river - "black" fish began to swim less often to our table. How not to complain, like our ancestors: sip your ear, and the fish is at the top. Above - in the capitals?

And a very bitter saying: Even a small fish is better than a big cockroach. What to do, not everything with a fish, sometimes with a turnip. There is hope for the best, at least this negotiation can be turned over: Not everyone is with a turnip ... Fishermen, fishermen used to say: God gave fish, and bread. Although fish is not meat, it is tasty in its own way, and there are many hunters for it, and it is hard for a person: “To catch fish is to walk at death, fish is cheap only on someone else’s dish.”

Fishing in Russia

Fishing is one of the oldest crafts that man has mastered. In the river, lake, sea, people saw an inexhaustible source of replenishment of their food reserves, and therefore they settled, as a rule, near water bodies.

Russia has always been famous for its fish stocks. In the 17th century, Adam Olearius wrote that the rivers and lakes of Russia "abundant to the extreme with every kind of fish."

The abundance of fish made it possible to satisfy not only the internal needs of the Russians, but also to engage in export. Russian caviar was highly valued abroad. Its main importers were Romania, Turkey, Greece, Austria, England, France.

In Russia, the fish table has always been plentiful and very diverse. Among the dishes of the first serving at feasts in ancient Russia usually there was sauerkraut with herring. Nearby, as snacks, caviar was put in different forms, that is, freshly salted, red - lightly salted, black - strong salting. Sturgeon, beluga, stellate sturgeon, sturgeon, pike, and tench caviar were the most widespread. Caviar was served with pepper and chopped onion, flavored with vinegar and olive oil to taste. Caviar was supplemented with balyks, which in the old days were called "backs", and hanging (a kind of dried) fish: salmon, white salmon, sturgeon, beluga, etc. Botvinya was served with this fish.

Steamed fish followed, followed by fried fish.

From this abundance of snacks passed to the ear different types: pike, sterlet, crucian, perch, bream, yazevy, zander, national team ... Along with the fish soup, kali were served: salmon with lemons, white salmon with plums, sterlet with cucumbers. Each ear was followed by its own body, that is, fish pulp dough with seasoning, baked in the form of various figures. Mandatory were also pies and pies stuffed with minced fish, with elm, with herring, with whitefish ...

However, this is not all. After the fish soup they ate salty: fresh and salted fish in brine (cucumber, plum, lemon, beetroot) and always “under the spice” - this was the name of truly Russian sauces with horseradish, garlic, mustard. These dishes also relied on pies, only not hearth (baked), but spun (fried). After eating all these dishes, they indulged in boiled crayfish.

All year round fish did not leave the table of the Russian people. It was also allowed to eat during fasts. Especially a lot in the posts ate herring. Herring milk and caviar with potatoes were considered a delicacy. Milk was washed, the film was removed from them, rubbed with boiled egg yolks and mustard. Barrel pike - salted pike - was also widely used. It was boiled in water, skinned and served with horseradish and vinegar.

Smoked fish - whitefish, smelt, fish - was eaten as an independent dish or mixed with other products: pickled beets, pickles, raw apples, boiled eggs, herbs.

In winter, various fish jellies were often prepared. Fresh fish was placed in a pot, poured cold water, salted, added onions, allspice and put in the oven. When the fish was boiled, the broth was poured into bowls, pieces of fish were placed in them and placed in a cool place.

In general, Russian fish cuisine is very distinctive. However, over time it has undergone various changes. There were new products, new types of fish (in particular sea). adopted better ways cooking with neighbors. And yet, Russian fish dishes have no analogues among other peoples.

The nutritional value of fish

The truly worldwide popularity of fish is not accidental. Since fish is not just food, but also a medicinal product. The value of fish is in the presence of proteins containing all the amino acids necessary for the human body. Fish fats contain a lot of unsaturated fatty acids, which are more easily absorbed by the body than, for example, beef and lamb fats.

One of the essential amino acids in fish protein is methionine. It prevents and treats atherosclerosis, regulates the work of the adrenal glands. Curd is called the king of methionine. And fish can be called the queen of methionine. In it, the content of this amino acid is only slightly less than in cottage cheese.

Cod, fish oil are rich in phosphorus. Potassium - many ocean fish. 200 g of mackerel contains a daily dose of iodine for a person (by the way, there is almost no iodine and bromine in freshwater fish).

A lot of calcium is found in crustaceans and especially in small fish.

Fish is rich in vitamins A, B1, E, C, D, B12, B2, PP.

A lot of advantages make fish and seafood indispensable in nutrition. Where they eat more fish, they get sick less. In Japan, for example, there is only one case of thyroid disease per million inhabitants. And in Norway, diseases of the cardiovascular system are rare.

Each type of fish has its own quantity and content of vitamins.

fish vitamins

Fish minerals

trace elements

Iron

1200

1000

Iodine

Cobalt

Manganese

Copper

Nickel

Chromium

Zinc

2080

1120

1080

1500

1020

Molybdenum

Kulebyaka - representative of the Russian national table

Kulebyak - a type of closed meat, fish or mushroom pie, the most revered in Russian cuisine.

The term comes from the verb "kulebyachit", i.e. knead something with your hands, knead, bend, bend, fold, sculpt the dough. Thus, this verb fully covers all the processes that occur during the manufacture of pie dough, which requires special efforts and special care, without which the product will not be of high quality. An explanation often found in popular publications that the kulebyaka is a corrupted GermanKohlback, that is, cabbage pastries, is absolute nonsense, an artificially invented fable that contradicts not only chronology, but also culinary logic. Kulebyaki are not cabbage pies at all, but first of all they are complex, and secondly, mainly meat and fish, mushroom.

Kulebyaka most often has the shape of a long loaf, a narrow and high pie. This form has been given to kulebyaka since the 18th century, as it guarantees the best baking of multilayer kulebyaka; it is convenient for cutting, especially in mass production and trade, when everyone is provided with an equivalent piece of kulebyaki. Therefore, a kulebyak of this form is accepted mainly in restaurants, while homemade kulebyaks can have any shape and size.

One of the main differences between kulebyaki and other pies is that it has much more minced meat; the amount of dough and filling is the same.

The inventors of the kulebyaki came up with many tricks to put such an amount of minced meat into the dough. Firstly: I had to make a hole in the top of the dough for steam to escape. Secondly: the dough is made steeper than for pies and pies. Finally, if the minced meat is very juicy, ready-made pancakes are laid between it and the dough so that the dough does not get wet.

The name of this pie is very often found in the works of many Russian writers of the 19th century. Here, for example, what kind of kulebyaka was ordered by the gourmet Pyotr Petrovich Rooster of their poem by N.V. Gogol “ Dead Souls”: “Yes, make a kulebyaka on four corners, in one corner you put sturgeon cheeks and a screech, in the other run buckwheat porridge, mushrooms with onions, sweet milk, yes brains, and you know there that sort of thing ... Yes, so that from one on the side, you understand, it would blush, but on the other, let it go easier. Yes, from the bottom, you know, bake it so that it crumbles, so that it gets through, you know, with juice, so that you don’t hear it in your mouth - like the snow has melted.

To be honest, it is hard to imagine such a kulebyaka, and for sure the gogol here gave free rein to his own culinary imagination in order to emphasize the satiated taste of his hero.

Here is how D.V. Kanshin describes the preparation of kulebyaka with fish filling: “A real kulebyaka is made from sour dough and is always served hot. In the kulebyaka, a screech is placed on top of the fish - veins from the sturgeon spine, which, when well boiled, turn into a gelatinous transparent mass, making the cake juicy. Chopped eggs are placed on the vizigu, if the kulebyaka is modest, as well as various cereals and other seasonings.

Especially good kulebyaka, Kanshin thought, it turns out with the Neva whitefish.

Kulebyaka is served as a hot appetizer, as well as with meat and fish broths. True, it is better to serve broths with small pies - kulebyachki.

Part 2. Research on the popularity of the Russian national dish - kulebyaki

What dish do you associate the Russian table with?

Conclusion: From the study, it can be seen that the majority of respondents associate Russian cuisine with dumplings. But we can also say with confidence that fish dishes are in no way inferior to dumplings. It is known that Russian cuisine is famous for its fish dishes. Fish and seafood form the basis of Russian cuisine.

Among the answers of all respondents, pies are also a popular dish. It is known that since ancient times, pies occupy one of the main places on the Russian table. Festive pies were distinguished by their shape and filling. One of the most popular pies in Russia was a fish pie - kulebyaka.

Do you know what a kulebyaka is?

Conclusion: From the study, the following is observed: the majority of respondents do not know the national Russian cuisine. Why do we, people living in Russia, know perfectly well various hamburgers, cheeseburgers and pizzas, and why is the name of the traditional Russian food - kulebyaka, associated with us with a curse word ?! Of all the respondents, only 35% gave the correct answer. Most people only know that kulebyaka is some kind of dish. We believe that it is necessary to respect and appreciate the traditions of our ancestors. We must not forget that national cuisine is part of our culture!

Part 3. Practical part

Process sequence

Technological sequence of cooking kulebyaki:

Ground meat:

1. Cut the fish fillet into small cubes, salt and lightly fry.

2. Add boiled rice, fried onion, herbs, salt, pepper and mix thoroughly.

Dough:

1. Prepare a dough: dissolve the yeast in warm water, add half the flour, stir and put in a warm place for about an hour.

2. Grind the eggs with sugar and salt and add to the finished dough.

3.Pour in the remaining flour, mix well, gradually adding softened fat, and knead the dough until it becomes smooth.

4. Put the dough for 1.5-2 hours in a warm place.

Kulebyak:

1. Roll out the yeast dough into an oblong layer 1 cm thick. Put the minced meat in the middle along the entire length, connect the edges of the dough over the minced meat and pinch.

2. Lubricate the baking sheet with fat and put the pie on it.

3. Lubricate with an egg, make punctures in several places.

4. Bake for 35-45 minutes at 210-230°.

Cost calculation

1. Flour 2 kg - 35 rubles.

used: 240 g - 4, 20 rubles.

2. Margarine 250 g - 20 rubles.

used: 25 g - 2.00 rubles.

3. Yeast 100 g - 3.50 rubles.

used: 12 g - 0.42 rubles.

4. Salt 1 kg - 5 rubles.

used: 5 g - 0.025 rubles.

5. Sugar 1 kg - 23 rubles.

used: 0.115 rub.

6. Egg 1pc - 3, 70 rubles.

used: 2pcs - 7.40 rubles.

7. Pink salmon 1 kg - 80 rubles.

used: 600 g - 48.0 rubles.

8. Rice 1 kg - 18 rubles.

used: 60 g - 1.08 rubles.

9. Butter 200 g - 30 rubles.

used: 100 g - 15 rubles.

Total: 78, 24 rubles.

Conclusion

Russian cuisine is very extensive and diverse. It has come a long way in its development. On this path there were periods of formation, improvement and prosperity, but there were also periods of decline, there were bright original finds, successful borrowings, but there were also losses. It is regrettable to note that Russian cuisine is now going through a difficult time. Gone are the so-called delicacies, spices, and sometimes there is not enough of the most common traditional food for Russia. However, the festive Russian table is still notable for its abundance, certainly not the same as in the old days, and the Russian house for its hospitality.

Bibliography

1. Potina T.R. "Popular food. Fish dishes" // Quest, 1992

2. Skurikhin I.M., Nechaev A.P. "All about food from the point of view of a chemist" // 1991

3. Medzhitova E.D. "Russian cuisine" // Kolos, 1992

4. Pokhlebkin V.V. "From the history of Russian culinary culture" // Tsentrpoligraf, 1997

5. Pokhlebkin V.V. "National cuisines of our peoples" // Tsentrpoligraf, 1999

6. Kovalev V.M., Mogilny N.P. "Russian cuisine: traditions and customs" // 1999

7. Trunova N.I. "Old Kitchen" // Courier, 1991

Vegetables. Artist J. Arcimboldo

In this picture, I was able to see: pomegranate, pomegranate seeds, apricot, dark grapes, pumpkin, onion, peach, pears, cherries, apple, cabbage leaves, green onions, zucchini, light grapes, green pea pod, head lettuce, eggplant, blackberry , viburnum berries (?), red hot peppers, fig tree, corn, olives, rose hips (?), plums, cherries, peanuts, turnips, green onions, artichokes, beets, carrots, petiole celery, garlic, mulberries, various flowers , ears of corn... But this list is not complete.

Gingerbread - a confectionery product based on flour and honey. Baking powder and spices were added to the dough. The heyday of the production of gingerbread dates back to the 14th-17th century. In Germany, Nuremberg gingerbread was known, in Poland - Torun, in Scotland - Scottish oatmeal, in Russia - Tula, Vyazma, Moscow, in Lithuania - on rye dough. Spices used: cardamom, cloves, star anise, black pepper, ginger.

Pryazhets - Russian the name of the fried pies. Also in Russiaspun all oriental pies are called, for example, piessamsa based on fresh test.

pulyarka (poulard- old) - the name of specially fattened meat chickens. They are meatier and cook faster. On imported chickens of this type of production, for example, Holland and Hungary, there is a "poulard" label. These chickens are always more expensive than usual. Today, if the recipe says to use poulard, you can use heavy weight broiler chicken.

Putria - Russian a dish cooked during Christmas and Lent or from barley, or from buckwheat, or from wheat, or from millet. Before use, diluted with liquid malt, kvass.

Scheme of cutting a pork carcass in the 19th century

Russian oil - melted butter, has a higher calorie content and is stored longer than butter, can be sold in glass jars in canned form.

pickle (pickle -old ) - Russian the first dish, it necessarily contains cucumber pickle and cucumbers. Cucumber pickle has been used in cooking since the 15th century. The amount of brine and its concentration determined the name of the dish - Kalya, hodgepodge, pickle. The modern pickle includes cucumber pickle to give a salty-sour taste of moderate concentration, as well as potatoes, carrots, onions, cereals (can be buckwheat, pearl barley, rice), greens, black peppercorns.
Offal is mainly used - beef kidneys. Instead of offal, you can use beef, pork, lamb meat. If the chicken pickle is the ventricles, kidneys, liver, legs of chickens. Offal can also be goose, turkey. Pickle can also be boiled in fish broth and water. The composition of vegetables may include a small amount of cabbage or sorrel, spinach, olives or olives, capers.

pies - Russians baked pies from sourdough dough, served with soups. When they are fish, they are served to the ear; mushroom, meat - to meat broths.
Oi can be with rice, onion, egg; carrots and eggs - then served with meat soups.
The pie has the shape of a boat, its filling is open, on the one hand it may not be pinched, and its name arose from this shape.
A whole piece of fish is placed on minced fish from the pulp of fish or from vyaziga, after which the pies are baked. Pies are served hot, before serving, pour in a teaspoon of the appropriate broth.
In the most famous version of the pie, vyaziga is used in chopped, evaporated form with cream and onions, pieces of salmon are placed on it, or rice with eggs and fried onions is taken instead of vyaziga.

ricotta- view Italian cheese made from whey. It has a very fine texture. The scope is the same as that of cottage cheese in Russian cuisine. It is also intensively used in the confectionery business for the preparation of creams.
In Italy, it is named after the province where it is produced: ricotta romano, ricotta siciliano, ricotta piemontese, etc. It also differs in density and amount of salt in the composition: ricotta moliterno - salted dryish, ricotta forte - unaged soft, ricotta dolce - without salt.

Scar - the largest section of the stomach of ruminants of cattle. ATPolish , in Belarusian the kitchen has a tripe dish called flasks, inRomanian and Moldovan it bears the name tuslama, skimming. The scar is strongly scraped, brought to a boil several times, draining the water, scraped again, then boiled for at least 5 hours. Separately, vegetables are stewed, the tripe is cut into strips and combined with vegetables, served with salted cheese.

Sabayon - dessert drink based on whipped yolks with the addition of spices and flavorings. Serve warm in warm porcelain cups.

herring - a small fish of the herring family, found in the Baltic Sea. Considered a national dishFinns and Estonians , canned food is prepared from it " sprats": in oil, smoked, salted, marinated, fried. Also baked in rye dough. Finns bake herring in sour cream with dill.

Salpicon - finely chopped minced meat, maybe from turnips and carrots.

Samsa- baked pies, dish Tajik and Uzbek cuisines are made from simplified puff pastry. Stuffing - lamb, onion, greens. All Tatar-speaking peoples call all fried and baked pies samsa.

Satsivi- dish Georgian cuisine of boiled chicken or turkey with cold nut sauce. The chicken is chopped with bones 3 cm * 6 cm in size, the sauce is prepared on chicken broth with the addition of grated walnuts, add greens, garlic, onions, peppers, cinnamon, insist the night in the cold.

Salmon- a type of salmon fish, caught in Russia, Norway, Finland, Sweden, Iceland. Now a lot of this fish is bred artificially in Norway, in the fjords. In Russia, the salmon rivers are: Pechora, Pinega, Mezen, Tuloma, they flow in the north.
Since the 12th century, salmon has been part of the Russian ceremonial table. Salmon is used in such Russian dishes as: botvinya, pies, pies with buckwheat porridge, kulebyaki with rice, pancakes with fish. Unlike salmon, sturgeon and stellate sturgeon are often cooked smoked; in this form, the slight taste of "dog meat" practically disappears. Fresh salmon does not have such a taste and smell, in a state of zero freshness it "smells like a cucumber", so there is no need to smoke it.
In other species of fish of the salmon family, the color is more pinkish-yellow, in contrast to salmon with a pinkish-yellow color.
Artificially grown salmon contains up to 40-42% fat, which does not allow it, unlike salmon living in natural conditions, to be considered a dietary product. If such fish is abused in the diet, cholecystitis can develop.

Cream- the top, fattest part of milk. They are removed either by the separation method, or from the upper part of the settled milk. In the confectionery business, creams with a fat content of more than 30% are used for creams, they are taken cold, and so that they do not turn into butter when whipped, they are first whipped quickly, then slowly. In European cooking, they are used in many meat dishes to soften the taste. AT Russian, Belarusian, Ukrainian The cuisine is characterized by the use of fatty sour cream instead of cream, so the taste of the same dish in Western and Central Europe, unlike in Eastern Europe, can be completely different. Cream is also used for pastry, in cutlets, in Viennese coffee, etc. The term " whipped cream"- means whipped cream (in old books).

Malt -Russian a dessert-type dish made from rye malt (sprouted, dried and ground rye grains). In a clay pot, water was heated to 35 degrees C, malt was poured and placed in a Russian oven at the exit from the hearth, ice was periodically thrown (so that the contents did not overheat), malt was added little by little. When the "malting" process was completed, the mixture was brought to a boil and cooled to 25 degrees C. A crust was added rye bread and left to sour in the upper part of the Russian stove. The contents turned sour and acquired a pink color, a sweet and sour taste with a honey aroma. Used during the Great and Christmas Lent.

Solyanka - Russian the first dish to which pickle brine is added or sauerkraut, lemon juice. Solyankas are meat, fish, mushroom. The vegetable part of any hodgepodge consists of onions, pickles, olives or olives, capers, lemons.
Kvass and sour cream are added to mushroom hodgepodges instead of lemon juice. Boiled, salted, smoked red or sturgeon fish goes to fish hodgepodges.
In meat hodgepodges, you can choose from: boiled meat, smoked sausages, bacon, ham, kidneys, tongue, udder, heart, up to 6 types of meat ingredients. Mandatory is the presence of some kind of meat ingredient and sausages, better smoked. A lot of spices and herbs are put in saltworts. It is very typical for modern saltworts to add tomato paste to the broth, which is first fried in oil. Onions are also pre-fried separately, then added to the boiled meat broth. Meat ingredients, such as boiled meat, when it has reached readiness, is taken out, cooled, cut into cubes, again immersed in a boiling broth. Tomato paste is added 8 minutes before readiness. Olives and lemon are placed directly on the plate before serving, or olives are served separately in a salad bowl.

Sochen Arkhangelsk - Russian pie. The dough made from a mixture of rye and wheat flour is rich, thinly rolled out, smeared with a mixture of eggs and cottage cheese, and folded in half once during baking. The dough is yeast, but it is not put on the rise, but baked immediately.

Sochen Yaroslavl - Russian pie. The dough from a mixture of rye and wheat flour is rich, thinly rolled out, smeared with a mixture of eggs and sour cream, sprinkled with chopped eggs, pieces of fish and boiled eggs, folded in half once during baking. The dough is yeast, but it is not put on the rise, but baked immediately.
Also, such pies can be pure sourdough rye or pure wheat.

Oatmeal- oats, it was kept in a Russian oven overnight, then ground into flour. In this way, the processed flour lost the ability to form a substance similar to gluten, but it swelled well in boiling water. Oatmeal porridge was prepared simply by brewing.

Caucasian black grouse, 19th century drawing.

Trout ( laxforel-vintage ) - fish of the salmon family, found in clean water mountain rivers, lakes, streams, now including artificially bred. It can be prepared stuffed, with fillings unusual for fish: fruits, nuts. A large trout farm is located in Russia in the mountains near Sochi, it was founded by N.S. Khrushchev, this project was one of his few successful agricultural undertakings.

Frapping - cooling of the product, as a rule, takes place in the form of a semi-finished product, before heat treatment in order to improve its taste.

Forshmak- dish Jewish cuisine without heat treatment, which is a pate of finely grated herring, green apples, soaked rolls, boiled eggs, onions.

Meatballs - products from fish or minced meat, added to the first and used as a second dish with gravy, have the shape of a ball the size of a cherry, walnut or pigeon egg. Flour, breadcrumbs, boiled cereals (rice) can be added to minced meat.

Fricassee (fricasse) - a dish of young meat. If it is beef, then ribs are used, the chickens are divided into halves or quarters. First, the pieces are fried, and then brought to full readiness in a thick sauce.

Frikando- a dish from the back leg of a calf carcass. The cooking technology is as follows: the meat is brought to a boil with spices and vegetables in a saucepan, then put in the oven for 1 hour under a lid, and then finally baked on a baking sheet in the oven under some kind of food casing to a bright color.

deep frying- some animal fat or vegetable oil for frying pieces of the dish with full immersion. Portions of the product should be very small, no more than 1/4 or 1/5 of the weight of deep fat, and the time should be minimal, 1-4 minutes. Now special oils and fats or their mixtures are produced for these purposes.

buffet - an open table for a large number of guests with cold snacks. Nearby on separate tables placed plates and cutlery. The diners come to the table, collect their own food and quickly leave to give access to the table to other diners.

Fume - Evaporated concentrated broth that emits a strong aroma. TermFrench and international kitchens.

Fydchin - closed meat pie Ossetian cuisine from fresh dough. It is formed in a frying pan, tightly pinching the upper and lower layers of the dough so that the juice of the raw meat filling does not leak out, and baked in the oven.

Khash- ancient Armenian a dish, the front legs (lower phalanges with hooves), scars (stomachs) of adult animals, such as oxen, cows, buffaloes, bulls, go into it. The legs are scraped, soaked for a long time, chopped, boiled for a long time. Also come with scars, they are boiled separately. At the end, everything is combined and cooked together. Served with pita bread in the last broth, flavored with garlic and herbs, radish salad can be served with hash. This dish is poor, but in modern Moscow there are expensive restaurants that cook it, and it finds its fans who are not at all poor, even of non-Armenian nationality. It is believed that this dish is good to eat in the morning "with a hangover", that it invigorates and gives a surge of energy (in Russian cuisine, in this case, they use hodgepodge).
At my husband and I have a friend who constantly invites us for "morning hash" in a restaurant on Sunday, make up keep him company, he is a Jew by nationality.

Kharcho "shepherd" (Crimean dish) - 500 g of lamb cut into small pieces, at the rate of 3-4 pieces per plate, boil for 2 hours, removing the foam, add finely chopped onion 2 heads, 3 cloves of crushed garlic, 1/2 cup rice, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 cups of sour plums, cook for another 30 minutes, 2 tbsp. l. fried in oil tomato paste is introduced 5 minutes before readiness. When serving, sprinkle with finely chopped dill, parsley and cilantro.

Black gingerbread - characteristic ofRussian kitchens. Boiled honey with spices was mixed with rye breadcrumbs, the dough was thinly rolled out, cut, dried in the oven and glazed with sugar syrup.

Chorba- title Moldovan, Bulgarian , Romanian hot soups, from half to a quarter of the liquid of which is kvass. Somewhat similar to shurpa.

churchkhela - Georgian a delicacy, walnuts strung on a thread are dipped several times in well-boiled grape juice with flour, dried, then dried in the sun. Ready-made churchkhela is soft, with grape sugar crystals protruding on the surface. See also "sharots".

Chukhon oil- the old name for the best butter, at 18 and
The 19th century was predominantlyFinnish . Until now, the best oil that can be bought in Russia is Finnish-made, with the exception of Vologda Russian. Chukhontsy is an old name in Russia for the Finns.

Shaker-Bura - Azerbaijani , Turkish confectionery product made from waffle dough with sugar-nut filling.

shangi - round Russians pies on yeast wheat, rye, rye-wheat dough. Unlike cheesecakes, in which the filling is placed in the recess of the dough, shangi is only smeared with the filling. It can be curd-egg, curd-buckwheat, etc. Shangi are typical for the regions: Karelia, the Middle Urals, the Cis-Urals, the Trans-Urals, the Ob River region in Siberia. They are served with tea, cabbage soup, hot milk, hot curdled milk.

Sharots - Armenian delicacy similar to Georgian churchkhela, but unlike the first, when boiling grape juice, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom are added.

Saffron - spice and at the same time food coloring of the crocus family - this is real saffron, there is false saffron - Imeretian, which is the stamens of marigold flowers, the first type is the most expensive spice in the world and is used in a minimum amount, 4-6 stamens for 3-5 portioned dishes. Imeretinsky saffron has no smell, but is only a dye. In Moscow, in the markets, traders often try to pass off false saffron as real.

Shashlik (kebab, twisted meat, mtsvadi) - meat dish , common among all mountain and pastoral peoples. Fatty pieces of tenderloin or loin, mostly young lamb or goat, roasted on skewers over the heat of coals. The fatty part of the piece is located on top so that when exposed to temperature, the fat melts and soaks the meat, and does not fall on the coals, creating soot.
If the meat is not fatty, the whole pieces are dipped in oil.
Nowadays, in urban conditions in Moscow, barbecue is prepared mainly from pork. On the highways approaching Moscow at the points of its preparation, shish kebab can only be consumed in well-checked places, otherwise there is a possibility that you will eat the meat of an animal of a non-food group.

Sherbet- a drink based on berry juice. Tajik sherbets are thick, they have more juice and sugar, Azerbaijani - less thick, almost not sweet at all, contain spices. Sherbets are served cold, sometimes with ice. Also called sherbet fudge based on sugar, with the addition of nuts, chocolate, flavorings.

Shire - Ossetian porridge made from cornmeal in milk, distributed throughout the North Caucasus.

Shirmol - Tajik inedible sponge cakes prepared on a special sourdough from chickpeas. They are baked in a special oven - tandoor. Cooking is long - 14 hours for sourdough maturation, 6 hours for dough maturation, 2 hours for proofing, cutting, baking. They have a very specific starter taste; zira (azhgon) seeds are added to them. I also know that such cakes are made in Iran and there they are widely distributed, but their local name is unknown to me.

Shirtan - Chuvash the dish is a baked lamb stomach filled with minced lamb with garlic and pepper. It is baked at a falling temperature from 300 degrees C to 100 degrees C, the dish turns out to be quite dry.

cabbage soup (shti- old) - ancient Russian the recipe for the first course involved boiling beef, cabbage, ham, onions and a handful of oatmeal. Then wheat flour, pounded with butter, was introduced for density. Then salted, peppered and served with sour cream, sprinkled with raw onions and breadcrumbs. Not to be confused with the drink "sour cabbage soup", the thick of which was used as a starter when making sourdough rye bread.

Pike - river and lake fish, in the Russian old classification refers to "black", that is, to the third-rate. AT Jewish In the kitchen, pike skin removed with a stocking is filled with minced meat, half mixed with onions, rolls, eggs, spices.
At Finno-Ugric People cut the pike in large pieces, put it in a clay pot, pour it with milk and onions, break eggs on top (this is how pressure is created inside the pot during languishing in the oven), then the milk is drained. Thus cooked pike was called "pike under eggs". With both cooking methods, the pike loses its unpleasant odor.
In some old Russian cookbooks, the name of the recipe for stuffed pike sounds like this: "Pike in a Jewish way." This terminology was used in Russia in the 18-19th century in cookbooks, "in Jewish" - this term can be found in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In the 20th century, the authors of stuffed pike recipes preferred not to tie the name of the recipe to the national cuisine.

Shurpa - Tajik the name of a thick meat soup with vegetables or dried fruits. Pieces of meat before laying are fried until half cooked, vegetables that grow in the ground are also fried. According to the Tajik belief, such vegetables are considered "unclean", and therefore need to be heat treated by roasting in a cauldron. Above ground vegetables are not fried. From dried fruits, apricots, raisins, dried apricots are used.

Shurpa in Crimean - 500 grams of meat cut into cubes of 30 grams, cook until half cooked, removing the foam. Potatoes are peeled and cut into cubes of 15 pieces, introduced into the broth, put 3 pieces. bay leaf, 10 pcs. allspice, cook until tender, 5 pcs are introduced in 10 minutes. onion fried for 5 tsp. vegetable oil or fat with the addition of 5 tbsp. l. tomato paste. Adjika, salt, pepper, add to taste. Served with chopped herbs. The soup should be very thick.

Emmental - most famousSwiss cheese, in other countries it is simply called "Swiss", the name is given by the river Enne, the main river of the canton of Bern, where from the 12th century they began to make giant circles of cheese weighing about 80 kg.

Yaki tori - Japanese a dish, young chickens on a spit, now in Russia they still call small chicken skewers from thinly sliced ​​and twisted chicken breasts on wooden skewers.

Yastyk- a thin, durable film containing sturgeon and salmon caviar. The presence or absence of ovary during salting significantly affects the grade of caviar.

Vegetable trade. Artist B. M. Kustodiev

MOSCOW AT THE TABLE (an excerpt from an old book about the life of Moscow in the 19th century)

Moskvityanin, 1856 (continued, see the beginning of the excerpt in Part 1 of the post):

"... This was followed by two or three cold dishes, such as: ham, goose under cabbage, boiled pork under onions, pig's head under horseradish, pike perch under galantine , pike under eggs , boiled sturgeon , composite vinaigrette from poultry, cabbage, cucumbers, olives, capers and eggs; sometimes beef jelly was served with kvass, sour cream and horseradish, or boiled pig and botwinya predominantly with beluga.

After the cold one, two sauces were sure to appear: in this department, the most common dishes were - duck with mushrooms, veal liver with chopped lung, veal head with prunes and raisins, lamb with garlic, doused with red sweetish sauce; Little Russian dumplings, dumplings, brains under green peas, fricassee from poulards under mushrooms and white sauce, or boiled cod, doused with hot cranberry jelly with sugar.

The fourth course consisted of roast turkeys, ducks, geese, piglets, veal, black grouse, hazel grouse, partridge, snipe , sturgeon shots, or lamb side with buckwheat porridge. Instead of salad, pickles, olives, olives, salted lemons and apples were served.

Lunch ended with two cakes - wet and dry. Wet cakes included: blancmange , kampots, various cold kissels with cream, apple and berry pies (something like the current soufflés), biscuits under whipped cream , scrambled eggs in bowls with jam (also what modern chefs call scrambled eggs or French scrambled eggs), ice cream and creams. These dishes were called wet cakes, because they were eaten with spoons, dry cakes were taken with hands. Favorite foods of this variety were: puff pies, franchises, lefties , jerked off , marshmallows, hearth pies with jam fritters and almond cookies. Moreover, hot cakes were always served, or juicy , or cheesecakes, or pies and pies. Kulebyak still retained its primitive character: even then it was a huge pie with a variety of fillings, from dry porcini mushrooms, minced veal, screeches , semolina, Sarachi millet , salmon , eels, burbots, and so on., And so on.

Pies and pies for the most part had fatty meat stuffing with onions, or with cabbage, eggs, carrots and very rarely with turnips.
All this was watered down with wines and drinks decent for dinner. Kvass was placed on the table: plain, red, apple, raspberry and sour cabbage soup . After kvass, beer was placed, velvet, almond, pink with cinnamon and black (like porter).
The waiters incessantly poured into wide glasses of wine: Madeira, port, Cypriot, Lisbon, Hungarian, and into glasses: lacrima, christi, malaga, lunelle. But most of all they drank liqueurs and ratafia of different varieties. After an hour and a half dinner, the host and guests got up from the table ... "

P. S. I replaced the letter "Ъ", left the old punctuation, did not change the outdated spelling of some words. The author of this book, in order of enumeration, gives possible typical lunch dishes, one should not think that all this food was presented at one particular dinner.

P. P. S. in yellow terms highlighted. described in 2 parts of this post. For a description of the term "kulebyaka", see the post dated December 19.
In the future, I plan to release at least one more part of the post describing the uncovered old culinary terms.