The house of the Moscow Art Theater in Bryusov Lane. Houses of the Soviet elite: where the actors of the Bolshoi Theater lived

31.12.2018
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On October 16, 2015, a monument to People's Artist of the Soviet Union Yevgeny Leonov was stolen.

Country: Russia

City: Moscow

Nearest metro: VDNH

Was passed: 2005

Sculptor: Zurab Tsereteli

Architect: Alexander Kuzmin

Description

The monument to French President Charles de Gaulle is an eight-meter figure of the president in full dress uniform, standing in full bearing. The figure of Charles de Gaulle is mounted on a ten-meter granite pedestal with an inscription in Russian and French. “General Charles de Gaulle President of the French Republic”, “General Charles De Gaulle Le President de la Republique Francaise”.

History of creation

The monument to the French President was erected on the day of the celebration of the 60th anniversary of victory in World War II on May 9, 2005. The monument is installed on Charles de Gaulle Square in front of the Cosmos Hotel, named in 1990 in his honor. On the grand opening the monument was attended by the president Russian Federation Vladimir Putin and French President Jacques Chirac.

How to get there

Arrive at the VDNKh metro station (the first car from the center) and get off at the All-Russian Exhibition Center. On the street, immediately at the metro, turn right and through the underpass cross Prospekt Mira and go to the Kosmos Hotel st. Prospekt Mira, 150. Where you will find a monument to the French President in front of the entrance to the hotel on Charles de Gaulle Square.

Walking with a child is an opportunity to be together, talk, talk heart to heart. It is affordable even for very busy person a way to communicate - after all, you can always find a little time to walk with your son or daughter through the park, embankment or old city streets. begins to collect places and their stories suitable for such rendezvous walks.

In the very center of the capital there is a place where you can take a walk, and breathe in the spirit of antiquity, along with the bohemian spirit, and pray with all your heart. This is Bryusov Lane.

Street on the river

And as soon as this ancient (even the oldest) corner of our capital, covered with all sorts of legends and all sorts of conversations, was not called ... And Uspensky enemy, and Vrazhsky lane - there were never any enemies here, but from "enemies", it became be, the name, simply a ravine (well, how funny these toponyms are, how much sometimes unexpected and even funny lies in them - historical, of course, too) ...

A small river flowed in this enemy - so small that it didn’t even have a name. It still flows today, but only underground, hidden more than two hundred years ago in a pipe. On excursions, children are told mainly about the Neglinka, which flows in a pipe dungeon. But how many nameless, like this, rivers, streams and streams flow underground. Do not count!

photosight.ru Photo: Tatiana Tsyganok

And this lane is also known as Voskresensky, since the Church of the Resurrection of the Word has been standing here since the beginning of the 17th century. At first wooden, then stone - it burned more than once, but never closed. Never! Even in the terrible Stalinist times of persecution of the church. And this despite the fact that the temple is located just a few hundred meters from Red Square and the Kremlin. Truly the Lord has preserved!

From the middle of the 18th century Bryusov lane became. For a hundred years the glorious Bryus family had already lived here, having moved to Muscovy, to serve the Russian sovereign, still the “quietest” Alexei Mikhailovich, from England. The first was Yakov Vilimovich Bruce, a descendant of the kings of Scotland and a military man. His son was also a soldier. At first, the grandson also went along the same path - also Yakov Vilimovich Bruce - from an early age he was an associate of the future Tsar Peter the Great.

However, later Yakov Vilimovich became a purely scientific person. Knowing several languages, having studied maritime affairs, he was also a connoisseur of painting, collected a unique library and the richest herbarium. But astrology, they say, did not disdain. And even - shh! - sorcery. Moscow legend says that the first Russian Freemason flew through the air from his home to the Sukharev Tower (which was built by Yakov Bruce in order to watch the stars). That's just how he flew, on what? .. Then, after all, there were no balloons either. It is only known that he moved around at night. When no one saw...

The last of the Bryusov estate, nephew of Yakov Vilimovich, Count Alexander, was neither able to fly, nor to spy on the heavenly bodies ... However, he managed to participate in a considerable number of campaigns, rise to the rank of lieutenant general and even become vice-governor of Moscow.

So who is the street named after? And here's a question for you. Guess yourself.

Much later, this street was called by the name of Antonina Vasilievna Nezhdanova, the famous Russian singer and once the first soprano of the Bolshoi Theater. But this is not for long, just over thirty years - from the 62nd to the 94th year of the last century. However, even then the alley that connects the main Tverskaya with the chamber Bolshaya Nikitskaya in just five minutes on foot was called by Muscovites in the old fashioned way "Bryusov". And 20 years ago, the street was given back its historical name. And, we dare to hope, now forever.

Shadows of the past

The unforgettable performer of the now almost forgotten romance Nadezhda Andreevna Obukhova also lived on this street. "Shadows of the Past" - the uncomplicated words of an urban romance - she, like no one else, knew how to turn into a short, but always surprising living history someone's deep feelings. From here, from house number 7, the “queen of Russian romance” is almost the only one Opera singer with a unique mezzo-soprano who could sing old romance in a salon (and not in a classical) manner - she left for the Bolshoi Theater. On the opera stage, Obukhova reigned as sovereignly as in the music salon.

Yes, house number 7 ... The largest, perhaps, in Bryusovo ... and certainly the most glorious. House of Artists of the Bolshoi Theatre. The main theater of the country.

“Shadows of the Past” were also sung in a duet in this house. An old chronicle brought to us a half-worn record of a romance sung by Obukhova in the company of the first tenor of the country, Ivan Kozlovsky, in the apartment of Antonina Vasilievna Nezhdanova. The apartment, however, had already become a museum at that time (quite soon after the death of legendary singer) and from here there were periodically broadcasts of a good old-fashioned genre in the power of “it was, it was ..”. And although now it may seem quite unbelievable, but ... It really happened. And it doesn't seem like it's been that long...

In the invariably tidy front garden outside the house, the famous bass Mark Reisen strolled in a huge white hat - rather wide-brimmed and ancient, but at the same time somehow never dilapidated and always fashionable. Elegant and handsome to a ripe old age, Reizen took the Bolshoi stage for the last time at the age of 90 to sing Gremin's aria in Eugene Onegin. And what? .. The voice sounded like never before!

Basically, house 7 was inhabited by opera houses. Alexander Pirogov - he marvelously knew how to hide his short stature when he sang his crown Boris in Mussorgsky's opera; Bronislava Zlatogorova - famous not only for her deep mezzo, but also for her antique collection furniture; Elizaveta Shumskaya is the virtuoso Violetta from La Traviata and Kozlovsky's favorite partner...

The tenor himself, before last days protecting his unique voice with a warm scarf in any weather, at the same time, under no circumstances did he shy away from everyday exercise. Walks - half an hour, no more - were made hand in hand with the faithful housekeeper Nina Feodosyevna - from home to the Church of the Resurrection. They say that once the famous singer sang here and on the kliros, together with Nezhdanova ... They say ... But he was a faithful parishioner. That's for sure. And the artist himself was buried by the Metropolitan of Volokolamsk and Yuryevsky Pitirim - another legend of Bryusov Lane.

Tall and stately, with jet-black hair (and then white as a harrier), a handsome man who was the honorary rector of the temple, he came to serve on Sundays (and sometimes on weekdays) and was always surrounded by a host of annoying admirers. They annoyed Vladyka in the pre-perestroika period by attracting too much attention for the Soviet times to the hierarchical person. And then, when the times changed and those who should have watched the persons of the clergy, it was no longer necessary - and the admirers of the lord became very old. The circle began to dissolve and sadly thinned out. Old women, regardless of gender and rank, gradually left for another world. And in 2003, Vladyka himself also left. Ten years after Kozlovsky's death. And Bryusov Lane by that time had already changed quite a lot ...

... There are no others anymore ... And memorial plaques remind me of those who lived here in scanty lines ... The most terrible is at house number 12. Director Vsevolod Meyerhold, a great theatrical dreamer and experimenter, lived here. Putting Bulanova from Ostrovsky's "Forest" on her head a green wig, true friend and an adherent of the Soviet regime, he was ruthlessly destroyed by the same regime.

His board is adjacent to the memorial of Sophia Giacintova. The actress was not only the first star of the Theater. Lenin Komsomol, but also a passion that faithfully served the Soviet regime. Lucky, however, Sofya Vladimirovna much more than Vsevolod Emilievich. They say because the actress managed to be at the right time in the right place and play the role of the mother of Lenin himself, which allowed Giacintova to live comfortably to almost 90 years, without leaving the theater stage.

House of Artists in Bryusovo. Photo: Alexander Ivanov.

Hello new life...

And what is in Bryusovo now?

The famous artist Nikas Safronov moved to these parts to roam the roof of his apartment at night. Known for his various escapades, the minister of muses bought several dwellings at once at house number 17, in which the most famous ballerina of the Bolshoi Theater Ekaterina Vasilievna Geltser, a friend of Marshal Mannerheim, once lived.

They say that the legendary military leader even in Soviet times, crossing the border incognito (oh, how romantic!), came from Finland, which by that time he ruled and ruled, to look at his enchantress. Now half of Geltser's apartment is occupied by another ballerina - Ilze Liepa, who named her cat Vaska, or rather Vasilievna, in honor of the patronymic of Mannerheim's great passion.

Another sign of the new time - only inanimate - a monument to Mstislav Rostropovich. The great and, as always, very concentrated cellist was seated at the instrument in the corner of the square by the ubiquitous Alexander Rukavishnikov. He sat me down right opposite the entrance to the temple, which the musician, by the way, really liked to go to.

Another celestial is looking at Rostropovich from another square. Composer Aram Khachaturian. Both lived here nearby, in the House of Composers. It was built already in the 50s, next to the artists' cooperative. And some - from the first generation of inhabitants - can still be found here. Here, for example, Lyudmila Lyadova ...

And so - the tribe is young, unfamiliar ... Near the House of Composers, they built some kind of cube of an incomprehensible design. Either a cube, or a parallelepiped, or ... Nervous multi-colored graffiti on the wall ... And house 19 - one of the most elegant buildings on the street, a hundred years ago, protected by the state - was demolished. Putting mediocre glass "tower" with a basement for foreign cars. They say that people live in it too ...

Heavenly helpers

Let's go to the temple for the last time. Before the icon of the Mother of God “Search for the Lost”, parents have long been praying for their lost children, crying in front of the icon of the Heavenly Intercessor so that the Lord would return understanding to negligent students.

This icon came here from the Church of the Nativity in Palashi, where Marina Tsvetaeva and Sergey Efron once got married in front of it. And she had to endure a lot of trials - and she was smashed to pieces by Napoleonic soldiers, and burned - after a ruined widower nobleman with three daughters once brought her to the church. The legend says that left a beggar with three teenage children, he was in extreme despair, and the Mother of God remained his only hope. With the last of his strength, he prayed in front of the icon, and when he married his daughters, he transferred the shrine to the temple.

And before the ancient image of St. Nicholas they pray. He is always the first assistant to students. And they turn to Spridon, the Trimifuntsky miracle worker ...

Gorgots Ilya. Bryusov lane. Watercolor.

***

... And it is better to enter Bryusov Lane from Tverskaya. And do not even enter, but enter ... For the street opens with a "triumphal" arch with powerful granite columns. It's like stepping into a solemn ballroom. And - so much space, history, life in front of you ...

Let's go in!..

Entrance to Bryusov. Photo: artema-lesnik.livejournal.com

In the 1920s, a wave of construction of a new type of cooperative housing swept through Moscow. Actors, musicians, engineers and officials massively united in cooperatives to build their own houses: one of the most well-coordinated were those created by the artists of the Bolshoi Theater and the Vakhtangovites. The six buildings built for them are still inhabited by the descendants of prima and composers.

House of Artists of the Bolshoi Theatre. Photo: wikimapia.org / Enormousrat

Three addresses in Bryusovo and one in Karetnoy: the houses of actors of the Bolshoi Theater

Bryusov lane, 7

Carriage row 5/10

Due to its nondescript appearance even by the standards of constructivism: five floors, one entrance, mouse color - the building rarely attracts the attention of Muscovites. But the house has been included in the register of monuments for several years. cultural heritage. The building was built for employees of the State Academic Bolshoi Theater in 1935 according to the project of the famous Moscow architect Alexey Shchusev. The house was erected by order of the theater workers' cooperative. Immediately after the completion of construction, she settled here soloist of the Bolshoi Antonina Nezhdanova, it is her name from 1962 to 1994 that the entire lane will bear. The artist's neighbors were ballerina Olga Lepeshinskaya, singers Maria Maksakova and Nikadr Khanaev, theater designer Fyodor Fedorovsky, conductor Alexander Melik-Pashaev and many other famous theater employees at that time. It's interesting that memorial apartment remained in the house only after one tenant - musician Nikolai Golovanov who lived in apartment number 10.

In 1956-1960, for the grown troupe of artists of the Bolshoi Theater, another residential building was built in Karetny Ryad. Despite its impressive size, there were almost no really famous residents in the house. The greatest popularity was achieved by those who settled here from the very beginning Leonid Utyosov and settled later TV presenter Leonid Yakubovich.

Memorial plaque to Leonid Osipovich Utyosov at 5, st. Karetny row in Moscow. Photo: commons.wikimedia.org

Bryusov lane, 12. Photo: wikimapia.org / Bakurin

In 1928 the building was built architect Ivan Rerberg. A five-story building with external elevator shafts can easily be confused with mass building, for which the first cooperative houses of the NEP era prepared the basis. After the construction was completed, the architect himself and his family settled in the house, ballerinas Victoria Krieger and Marina Semyonova, actors Sofia Giatsintova and Anatoly Ktorov. The most famous and unfortunate residents were the residents of apartment 11, Vsevolod Meyerhold and his wife Zinaida Reich. The director himself was shot in 1940, his wife was killed in the same apartment. Immediately after the death of Reich, according to legend, the living space was divided into two parts: one half was occupied chauffeur Lavrenty Beria and the other is a girl named Vardo Maksimilishvili. In various sources, the young woman is credited with serving as an NKVD officer, personal secretary, and even Lavrenty Beria's mistress. Now the house has been turned into a museum open to the public.

Bryusov lane, 17

The same nondescript as the neighboring ones, the cooperative house of artists of the Moscow Art Theater became the first project of Alexei Shchusev in Bryusov Lane. It took only one year to build: the minimalist building was conceived in 1927, and occupied as early as 1928.

Bolshoi Levshinsky Lane, 8a. Photo: commons.wikimedia.org

The building is slightly higher than the neighboring artistic buildings and has 6 floors. The local apartments were distinguished by increased comfort: almost all of them were created taking into account the personal wishes of future residents. In one of the sections on the ground floor, even a swimming pool was originally designed. Actors Nina Litovtseva, Vasily Kachalov, Ivan Moskvin, director Leonid Leonidov, ballerina Ekaterina Geltser and choreographer Vasily Tikhomirov settled in the house. Already in the middle of the 20th century, the famous Soviet dancer Maris Liepa. A few years ago, in fact, the entire top floor and the attic of the building were bought by artist Nikas Safronov- here is his workshop and residential apartments.

Two houses of "Vakhtangov"

Bolshoy Nikolopeskovsky lane, 12

Built in 1928, the house was intended for artists of the Vakhtangov Theatre. The building was designed by a little-known architect Yakov Rabinovich. The five-story house of the correct form is divided into four entrances and 38 apartments. Among the guests of the first floor stood out actor Boris Shchukin.

Bolshoy Nikolopeskovsky lane, 12 / Photo: Commons.wikimedia.org

Iosif Rappoport, Anatoly Goryunov, Vasily Kuza, Ruben Simonov lived on the second. The house manager chose the artists Lev Ruslanova. Many years later his son Vadim Ruslanov will describe the life and way of life of the first generation of "Vakhtangov" in his book "House in Levshinsky". The work depicts a very lively and close-knit inner life of the courtyard: joint dance evenings, games of tennis, volleyball, a skating rink flooded for the winter and evenings on a bench under Shchukin's windows.

In 1937, a second house was built for the artists of the Vakhtangov Theater. This time, the eight-story residential building is located very close to the duty station, in Bolshoy Nikolopeskovsky Lane. The most famous locals were two actors - father and son - Mikhail Derzhavins. The latter still lives here with wife Roxana Babayan.

On this site there was once a five-domed church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker in Drachy (1688, rebuilt in 1903 by architect Z. Ivanov with the construction of new side chapels and a refectory for 2000 worshipers), with a free-standing three-tiered bell tower (middle of the 18th century) . The bell tower was located at the corner of Sadovaya-Sukharevskaya and Trubnaya streets.
In 1929, the temple was closed, and in the 1930s the temple and the bell tower were demolished along with two neighboring houses: No. 10, which belonged to the merchant Shatrova, and No. village" "Russkaya Zhizn" published in No. 6/2008). In 1940, on the site of the demolished part of the quarter, a multi-storey residential building No. 8-12 was built with a homeopathic pharmacy and a special studio on the ground floor. It is noteworthy that the original project of the house consisted of 5 entrances and did not involve the demolition of the bell tower. The width of the stairwells and the layout of the apartments speak in favor of this version.
Later, when the decision was made to demolish the temple, the project, apparently, was hastily finalized, and by the end of 1940 it was implemented as a 7-entrance building. The façade is both plastically and colorally accentuated by three "spots" formed by groups of six windows. The wall framing them is painted in terracotta. In addition, the group ends with a cornice; two central windows (vertically) are flanked by semi-columns with Corinthian capitals. Each group on the right and left is separated from the rest of the wall by vertical ornamental inserts protruding forward. On the left side of the building, two portals are decorated with semi-columns with Ionic capitals, which are not often found in buildings of the Soviet era, on which a cornice with stucco volutes rests. It is noteworthy that the courtyard facade of the house is decorated with Doric columns, in contrast to the nearby buildings on the Garden Ring, which have a very ascetic decoration of non-ceremonial facades. Well-groomed green yard with flower beds and benches under the shade of old trees, with a spacious playground - a place of rest for both children and adults.
The house was built for the employees of the NKVD and artists of the Bolshoi Theater, now the third generation of residents and several families of old-timers live here, who still remember how the house was settled back in 1940. Singers of the Bolshoi Theater lived in this house in different years: People's Artist of the USSR Vera Davydova, Honored Artist of the RSFSR Maria Zvezdina; the recently deceased well-known lawyer Semyon Aria, winner of the F.N. Plevako. S.Aria's clients were Andrei Sakharov, Roman Karmen, Petr Yakir, Rolan Bykov, Natalia Fateeva, Vasily Livanov, Alexander Minkin, Boris Berezovsky and others.

The lanes between Tverskaya and Bolshaya Nikitskaya represent a motley, complex, amusing, entertaining and rather instructive picture in relation to the history of development. History and modernity are mixed here quite bizarrely, despite the fact that modernity has its own “history” here - for example, Bryusov Lane in the 20th century. was chosen by the Moscow Conservatory, followed by the Union of Composers and the Bolshoi Theatre, and the small track turned into the history of Russian-Soviet music of the 20th century, which replaced the history of the manor lane of the past. But the names of the inhabitants of the lane of the twentieth century. so famous and significant that in this case it remains only to accept this "change of milestones."

Suffice it to point out that Bryusov lane changed three historical names, each of which had importance. The oldest name of the lane - Bolshoy Voznesensky - after the Church of the Ascension of the Lord (Small Ascension) in the current Voznesensky Lane, which was originally Small Voznesensky. The temple is unusually significant - it is the oldest surviving monument of the vast area from Znamenka to Tverskaya. The stone building of the temple dates back to the middle of the 16th century. and, in turn, could be associated with a very unusual neighbor - from Znamenka to Bolshaya Nikitskaya to Romanov Gazetny lanes (with a shift in routes?) was the infamous Oprichny yard of Ivan the Terrible.

In the XVIII century. large estates occupy significant sections of Bolshaya Nikitskaya and the alleys adjacent to it. According to one of them (No. 2), the lane gets its most famous name - the estate is occupied by the famous "warlock" Count J. Bryus, and under Catherine II - by his nephew, one of the governors (as they wrote at that time - commanders in chief) of Moscow V. Bruce. In addition to the Bryusov estate, in the lane from Tverskaya, the estate of the Counts Gudovichs has been preserved, originally overlooking Tverskaya and when the Tverskaya highway - Gorky Street - was expanded in the 1930s. it was significantly pushed back and is now completely included in the development of the alley.

From 1962 to 1994 Bryusov lane had the status of a street named after n.a. USSR A.V. Nezhdanova - the legendary singer of the first half of the 20th century, who lived in the described house 7 (House of Artists of the Bolshoi Theater of the USSR, built under the guidance of Academician of Architecture A.V. Shchusev). AT late XIX and at the beginning of the twentieth century. part of the development of Bryusov Lane was occupied by tenement houses (No. 6, 1901, architect A.F. Meisner, etc.), from this the height of the development of the lane began to rise, anticipating the construction in the lane in the Soviet period.

The "artistic" settlement of Bryusov Lane began in 1928, when the House of Artists (No. 12, in front of the exit of the lane to Tverskaya, according to the project of I.I. Rerberg) and the House of Artists of the Moscow Art Theater (No. 17, opposite the square with a monument to the composer) were built here A.I. Khachaturyan, designed by A.V. Shchusev, built on), externally made in the forms of strict constructivism and becoming the first-born work in Bryusov Lane of the eminent architect. A.V. Shchusev had a colossal construction practice. This eminent master received the title of Academician of Architecture at the St. Petersburg Imperial Academy of Arts.

The creative search of the architect is surprising in its diversity. A.V. Shchusev worked a lot in the "Russian" style (Kazansky railway station in Moscow, the Russian Pilgrimage Center in Bari, Italy), was actively engaged in architectural restoration(restoration of the Church of St. Basil the Great in Ovruch near Kyiv, projects for the restoration of the Novgorod Kremlin and the New Jerusalem Monastery), and at the same time actively worked in the forms of constructivism and post-constructivism (All-Union Agricultural Exhibition, 1923, together with I.V. Zholtovsky and a group of architects, Narkomtyazhprom, hotel "Moscow"). Together with I.V. Zholtovsky, A.V. Shusev became a pioneer of Soviet urban planning, completing in the early 1920s. promising urban development project "New Moscow". The work of A.V. Shchusev on the construction of the Mausoleum of V. Ulyanov (Lenin) on Red Square near the Moscow Kremlin became a legend of Soviet architecture.

Located in the middle of the route of Bryusov lane, the described house 7 is characteristic example post-constructivist searches of A.V. Shchusev in the mid-1930s. The building consists of three connected monumental nine-story buildings, two side buildings are pushed forward, the central building is pushed back to form a small "internal" area. On all buildings, the first two floors form the lower tier, decorated in the form of rusticated masonry from large blocks, the upper zone is plastered. In the middle of the lower tier of the central (recessed) building, there is a passage to the courtyard in the form of a “large” arch. The central vertical above this arch is continued by a row of double balconies to the entire height of the upper tier; this central row of vertical balconies is accompanied by "smaller" balconies along the sides of this central axis on the central and side buildings. To enhance the plastic expressiveness of the monumental architectural composition A.V. Shchusev introduced two rows of trapezoidal overhanging bay windows as frames for the facades of the side buildings in the upper zones, and overhanging balconies for the entire width of the facades between them at the border of the lower and upper tiers. The façades of all three buildings were completed by the upper floor, which became a “curtsey” towards the general classicist tendencies of Soviet architecture of the 1930s. The upper floor on all buildings is distinguished by a narrow cornice, the window openings are made in the form of arches, the floor is completed with an extended overhanging cornice on currency-like consoles. In house No. 7, built under the direction of A.V. Shchusev, two prominent inhabitants of Bryusov Lane lived - these are folk artists USSR A.V. Nezhdanova and N.S. Golovanov. The museum of N.S. Golovanov is now open in apartment No. 10.