They learn about what a timing belt is when it's too late, after it breaks. However, this is a very important part, which is part of the gas distribution mechanism, connecting the shafts and making them move. It is located on the left side of the motor, along the body. Rubber is used in its production. High Quality. The inner part of the belt has special teeth, as it is put on several rollers at the same time. For some reason, it may fail and become unusable, which is the reason for replacement. Today we will talk about how to replace the timing belt yourself, when it needs to be done and what the consequences may be for Ford Fusion if this process is ignored.

Replacing a timing belt is a rather complicated and time-consuming task. In fairness, it should be noted that not everyone can do this kind of work. If you are confident in your abilities, then proceed with the replacement, otherwise ask someone more experienced to help. Moreover, if you are doing this for the first time, then it is better to put the Ford Fusion in the garage and set aside a day for its maintenance. Replacement will require you to have a certain set of tools and spare parts, among which are:

1. Timing belts, alternator, pump.
2. Tension roller.
3. Crankshaft pulley bolt (40 mm long).
4. Torque and a set of other keys.
5. Bolt for setting the crankshaft at TDC and using it as a mark.
6. Device for fastening the flywheel of the crankshaft.
7. Shaft fixing device.
8. torque wrench.

When do you need to replace?

The Ford Fusion was developed with a focus on the European market. As you know, the climate there is quite mild, the quality of fuel and roads is excellent, which cannot be said about our country. That is why the maintenance schedule will not correspond to that specified by the manufacturer. Ford says the timing belt should be replaced every 100,000 miles. In our conditions, it is better to reduce the interval to 100,000 km.

Many often have a misunderstanding of how climatic conditions can affect the timing belt. In fact, everything is simple, because in winter time years, the engine may not start immediately and it takes longer to turn the starter. This creates an increased load on the cold belt, which eventually breaks down faster. Moreover, even with a low mileage, the belt can fail if the Ford Fusion is operated in big cities, where there are constantly a lot of traffic jams.

In no case should you ignore the replacement, as this can lead to an irreparable result. If the belt is worn out and continues to work, then it may break. For a car, such a breakdown very often means bending the valves and damaging the pistons. This breakdown can be corrected only by overhauling the FordFusion motor, the cost of which is very high.

As you understand, you should not spare time and money to replace the timing belt. Moreover, the cost of such an operation is quite low. At the same time, you can install new belts for the air conditioner, pump, generator, etc.

Features of replacing the timing belt

armed essential tool you can start replacing the timing belt. On the Ford Fusion, this is done as follows:

1. We remove the belts of the air conditioner, generator and other devices.
2. Remove the generator and expansion tank. It can simply be pushed aside, leaving it on its mounts.
3. Under the engine substitutes a reliable and strong support.
4. We dismantle the suspension support from the front axle of the Ford Fusion. To do this, unscrew the bolts and nuts securing the motor to the mudguard.
5. We unscrew the bolts securing the water pump pulley and remove it.
6. Dismantle the suspension support bracket. To do this, unscrew 3 bolts.
7. We remove the protective cover of the timing belt, which is mounted on several bolts. After that, we put the neutral gear and turn the crankshaft to the required level.
8. We dismantle the plug of the Ford Fusion cylinder block and install the fixing device, while scrolling the crankshaft by its fastening bolt until it contacts the rod.
9. We fix the camshaft, preventing it from turning. For this, special devices are used that need to be put in the grooves. The linear mark should match the top of the part on the camshaft side, and the dot mark should match the intake.
10. We pull the handbrake to fix the engine crankshaft and prevent it from spinning.
11. We unscrew the fasteners of the pulley to the toe of the crankshaft and dismantle the pulley. The mounting bolt can be replaced.
12. We unscrew the bolts securing the protective cover and dismantle the belt. To do this, loosen its tension by moving the leading branch to the side until it stops. The tension roller will return to its original position, in which it must be secured with metal rods.

Now there is a direct replacement of the belt. Be extremely careful not to let the Ford Fusion crankshaft spin when there is no belt on it. If it still turns, it can cause valve failure.

In general, car maintenance and timing belt replacement, among other things, is an integral part of the operation of FordFusion. By performing a series of inexpensive but necessary operations, you can significantly extend the life of your machine and save money.

Based on the manufacturer's recommended timing belt replacement interval on a Ford Fusion, it follows that the belt should be replaced every 120,000 km. If the machine is operated in severe climatic conditions, then this interval is halved.

An urgent timing belt replacement is required if:

• There are traces of oil on the surface of the belt.
• Wear marks were found on the toothed surface.
• Wrinkles, cracks, bulges or indentations are visible on the outside of the belt.
• The end surface of the belt is stratified or frayed.

We will replace the timing belt on a Ford Fusion car

1. Prepare the vehicle for the upcoming work. To do this, drive the car onto a flyover or, if possible, into a viewing hole, then place bricks or anti-rollback stops under the wheels. Loosen the wheel nuts and jack up the front right wheel. Place a stop under the side member, then you can pull out the jack and remove the wheel.
2. Remove the engine protection and, slightly raising the engine, place a jack under the crankcase.
3. Take the T25H asterisk wrench and unscrew the five screws on which the fender liner is attached. Pull out the plastic clip located at the bottom of the bumper and you can now remove the fender liner.
4. Take a flat wide screwdriver and unscrew the two screws that secure the protective plastic crankshaft boot. A hose is attached to the anther with the help of three plastic clamps. Cut them with scissors and remove the hose from the anther. The pistons do not require removal, because they have special slots into which you can thread new plastic clamps and attach the hose in place. Clamps can be purchased at any automotive store.
5. There are two mounting bolts on the air filter housing, unscrew them with a 10 head.
6. Take the pliers or screwdriver, prying the clamp, wring it out and remove the air pipe, take it to the side. On the other hand, pull out the second tube by turning it clockwise, and then remove the breather hose.
7. Grasp the back of the air filter housing with both hands, pull it up with a sharp motion and remove it from the locking rails.
8. Take the head on 10 and unscrew the bolts securing the coolant reservoir, pull it up, remove it and set it aside. Pull up, remove and also take aside the power steering fluid reservoir, it is mounted on three rubber bushings that are inserted into the grooves of the bracket.
9. Using an elongated head by 15, unscrew the 3 nuts of the engine support and the three bolts of its fastening to the body, then remove it.
10. Take a 10 wrench and unscrew the four bolts that secure the water pump pulley, cut the attachment belt with a knife and remove the pulley.
11. Take the 13 head and unscrew the two bolts and nut that secure the generator, remove it and take it aside to the headlight, and use the 6 head to unscrew the stud.
12. Using the head on 8, unscrew the nine bolts securing the timing belt cover and remove it.
13. Next, again take the head to 13 and unscrew the four bolts that attach the bracket for the right engine support, the support itself has already been removed by you earlier, and now remove the bracket.
14. Pull up the tips of the high-voltage wires and remove them from the candles, disconnect the wires themselves.
15. Unscrew the two plastic guides that secure the air filter, unscrew the nut for attaching the oxygen sensor and move it to the side. Using an elongated head by 10, unscrew the studs, they and the bolts will not be pulled out entirely from the valve cover.
16. Use the 8 head to unscrew the nine bolts that secure the valve cover, press the metal fixing spring, pulling the connector up, remove it from the sensor. Next, remove the valve cover.
17. Unscrew the candle of the first cylinder and insert a plastic tube, the length of which will be at least 25 cm.
18. Take the 18 socket and extension, use them to turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise and follow the tube. You will need this to set and fix the top dead center for the piston of the first cylinder.
19. Take a hacksaw blade and a steel plate, its dimensions are about 220x30x4. Next, place the plate and blade into the grooves on the camshafts. The plate will enter easily, if this does not happen, then adjustment by turning the crankshaft will be required. If the grooves and the plate do not match significantly, then it will be necessary to turn the crankshaft one more turn in the clockwise direction. Remember that the grooves made in the camshafts are not located exactly in the center, but have a slight offset.
20. After setting the top dead center and the position of the plate, you need to find the plug bolt located next to the inner right CV joint, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe oil drain plug at the rear of the engine. Using a 13 wrench, unscrew it, and another M10 bolt should be screwed in there, with dimensions of 45 mm and a pitch of 1.5. Screw in the bolt approximately 10 mm. Next, pull out the fixing plate and slightly rotate the crankshaft in reverse side clockwise movement. Tighten the bolt completely and turn the crankshaft clockwise until the shaft hits the screwed bolt. Try reinserting the fixation plate. If it does not enter, start turning the crankshaft a little in the reverse direction clockwise and unscrew the bolt a little. Return the crankshaft to its original position again and try to insert the plate again. It is required that the crankshaft resting on the bolt and the fixed camshaft plate with the hacksaw blade are aligned. So everything is adjusted: the crankshaft rests on the bolt, and the camshafts are fixed with a plate.
21. Next, remove the lock plate. you will need the help of a partner, put him behind the wheel, let him turn on the first gear and squeeze the brake pedal, while you unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. Most comfortable position to unscrew the crankshaft bolt, this is when you are in the inspection hole under the car, so the 18 head will immediately put on the lever and it will be easier to unscrew. It is unlikely that this bolt will be unscrewed from the side, because it is tightened with a large moment and does not have a key connection.
22. If there is no assistant, and you are replacing it yourself, you will need to remove the starter. To do this, with a head of 13, unscrew the upper and lower bolts and lower the starter down, before unhooking the connector from the sensor, which is located directly under the starter, this will help to avoid wire breaks. Insert a large flat screwdriver into the mounting hole where the starter was attached, thus fixing the flywheel gear. Next, try turning the crankshaft, if the screwdriver is clamped by the flywheel and the crankshaft stops rotating, then you can safely unscrew it.
23. Now that the crankshaft is unscrewed, cut the power steering belt with a knife and remove the crankshaft pulley. Unscrew the lower timing belt guard. Remove the vehicle from gear and shift into neutral or remove the screwdriver that secures the flywheel. Hand tighten the bolt that has just been unscrewed back into the crankshaft and turn it clockwise until the shaft rests on the bolt. Insert the hacksaw blade and locking plate into place.
24. Take a brighter marker and put marks on the timing belt and on the two camshaft sprockets. Also note the position of the crankshaft and the sprocket located on it.
25. With your fingers in a clockwise direction, squeeze the tongue located on the roller, you will need to overcome the force of the tension spring and remove the timing belt. Take the head at 13, unscrew the roller mount and remove it. If necessary, replace the tension roller. Accurately transfer all marks from the old belt to the new one.
26. Put on a new belt, combine all the drawn marks on the gears and belt. Depress the pulley and tension the timing belt.
27. Screw on the lower timing belt cover, put on the pulley and tighten the bolt. Do everything carefully, not at full strength, so that the fixing bolt does not bend.
28. Engage first gear or fix the flywheel with a screwdriver, unscrew the fixing bolt, remove the fixing plate and tighten the crankshaft bolt with a force equal to 45 N * m, then tighten it additionally by 90C0.
29. Turn the crankshaft a couple of times and set the piston of the first cylinder to a position called top dead center. Try to insert the fixing plate and screw in the fixing bolt, everything should match.
30. Then you can proceed with the assembly, it is carried out in the reverse order.
31. Put new belts on attachments and power steering.
32. Check if everything is in its place, if all the bolts are tightened, if all the details are dressed, now you can start the car.

Important!

• If traces of engine oil are found on the surface of the belt, then it urgently needs to be replaced. In addition, you will definitely need to find and eliminate the reason why the oil gets on the belt.
• A timing belt that has not been replaced in time can break, and this, consequently, will lead to significant damage to the entire timing mechanism.

According to the manufacturer's recommendation, the condition and tension of the timing belt for Duratec engines with a volume of 1.4 and 1.6 liters of Ford Fusion and Ford Fiesta cars must be checked every 20 thousand km.

Checking the timing belt tension Ford Fusion, Ford Fiesta

Remove the top cover of the timing gear drive.

Inspect the timing belt. Replace the belt if, upon inspection, you find:

– traces of oil on any surface of a belt;

- signs of wear of the toothed surface, cracks, undercuts, folds and delamination of the fabric from the rubber;

– cracks, folds, depressions or bulges on the outer surface of the belt;

- Loosening or delamination on the end surfaces of the belt.

Check belt tension. A correctly tensioned timing belt Ford Fiesta, Ford Fusion should rotate 90 ° from the force of the fingers 15–20 N (1.5–2 kgf) applied in the middle between the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys.

Adjust belt tension if necessary.

Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.

Timing Belt Replacement Ford Fusion, Ford Fiesta

According to the manufacturer's instructions, the timing belt for Duratek engines with a volume of 1.4 and 1.6 liters must be replaced after 60 thousand kilometers or 6 years of operation (whichever comes first).

Raise the front of the vehicle and place it on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel.

After cutting with a knife, remove the power steering pump drive belt.

After cutting with a knife, remove the Ford Fusion, Ford Fiesta accessory drive belt.

Set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke. Do not remove the locking plate from the grooves in the rear of the camshafts, as it must fix the shafts from turning.

Turn out a bolt of fastening of a pulley of a crankshaft of the engine Ford Fusion, Ford Fiesta.

Remove the bolt and remove the crankshaft pulley.

While holding the water pump pulley from turning with a screwdriver, loosen the four bolts by rearranging the screwdriver one by one. Then finally turn out the bolts and remove the water pump pulley.

Turn out nine bolts of fastening of the top cover of the timing drive Ford Fusion, Ford Fiesta and remove the cover.

Turn out three bolts of fastening of the bottom cover of a drive of the gas-distributing mechanism and remove a cover.

Remove the right support of the power unit.

Turn out two lateral bolts of fastening of an arm of the right support of a suspension bracket of the power unit.

Turn out two forward bolts of fastening of an arm of the right support of a suspension bracket of the power unit and remove an arm.

Loosen the timing belt tension Ford Fusion, Ford Fiesta, for which, with pliers, overcoming the force of the spring, turn the movable roller bar clockwise until the holes in it and the roller bracket are aligned.

After inserting a pin of a suitable diameter into the hole, fix the roller and remove the timing belt.

Turn out a bolt of fastening of a tension roller and remove it.

Install the roller in the reverse order of removal, having previously fixed it with a rod of a suitable diameter.

Slide a new belt onto the exhaust camshaft sprocket. Tension the drive belt and slide it over the intake camshaft sprocket.

Remove the pin that secures the tension roller.

Install the lower and upper timing covers and the crankshaft pulley Ford Fusion, Ford Fiesta. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt in two stages: 1st stage - tighten to 45 Nm (4.5 kg/cm); Step 2 - Tighten 90°.

Remove the camshaft fixing plate.

Remove from the hole in the cylinder block the rod that fixes the crankshaft Ford Fusion, Ford Fiesta.

Engage neutral gear in the gearbox, rotate the crankshaft two revolutions and stop it before reaching TDC by about 20 °.

Insert the fixing rod into the hole of the Ford Fiesta, Ford Fusion cylinder block and carefully tighten the crankshaft until it stops with the rod.

Install the fixing plate on the camshafts. If the tool can be installed without difficulty, the timing belt is installed correctly.

If the device could not be installed (the valve timing is shifted), remove the belt, install the fixing device and repeat the installation of the belt.

If the timing belt is installed correctly, remove the fixing plate from the camshafts, remove the fixing rod from the hole in the cylinder block, reinstall the plug of this hole, tightening it to a torque of 20 Nm (2.0 kg / cm), and install all previously removed parts in reverse order of removal.

Replacing the Timing Chain for a 1.3L Duratec Engine on Ford Fusion, Ford Fiesta

Fig.3. Timing drive Ford Fusion, Ford Fiesta (Duratec 1.3 engine)

1 – damper axis; 2 - axis of the tensioner shoe; 3 - tensioner shoe; 4 - chain; 5 - calmer; 6 - hydraulic chain tensioner; 7 - bolt; 8 - camshaft sprocket; 9 - crankshaft sprocket

Raise the front of the vehicle and place it on a secure stand. Remove the right front wheel.

Remove the engine mudguard.

Remove the oil pump.

Set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke.

Turn out the hydraulic tensioner 6 (Fig. 3) of the timing chain Ford Fusion, Ford Fiesta.

Holding the sprocket 8 from turning, unscrew the bolt 7, then remove the sprocket 8 from the camshaft.

Unscrew the axle 2 of the tensioner shoe and remove the shoe.

Remove timing chain 4 Ford Fusion, Ford Fiesta and crankshaft sprocket 9.

Install the timing chain so that a pair of painted chain links are opposite the mark on the camshaft sprocket, and another chain link marked with paint is opposite the mark on the crankshaft sprocket.

Install all removed parts in the reverse order of removal.

Replacement of oil seals for camshafts of duratec engines with a volume of 1.4 and 1.6 liters of Ford Fiesta, Ford Fusion

If traces of oil leakage through the camshaft seals are found, first check if the crankcase ventilation system is clogged and if the hoses of this system are pinched, if necessary, repair the problem. If the oil leak continues, replace the seals.

Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.

Remove all spark plugs.

Remove the cylinder head cover.

Remove the timing belt Ford Fusion, Ford Fiesta.

Holding the camshafts from turning with a wrench on the hex sections on the shafts, unscrew the bolts securing the camshaft drive pulleys and remove the pulleys from the shafts.

Using a screwdriver, remove the oil seals from the sockets of the cylinder head.

Before installing new oil seals, inspect their working edges. They should be smooth, without tears, dents and rubber influxes. Gland springs must be intact and unstretched. Lubricate the working edges with engine oil.

Install the oil seals with the sealing lips inside the cylinder head sockets, carefully fill the sealing edges on the camshafts and press them in with a suitable mandrel to the stop.

Engine 09 December 3 100 0

How to properly replace the timing belt and the necessary rollers on a Ford Fusion car (Ford Fusion) with your own hands. Very detailed and high-quality instruction made in video format high resolution. It lasts more than 3 hours, an introduction is given to replacing the timing belt and its rollers, an overview of the tool used is made, all the nuances of the work are told.

Then the timing belt replacement itself begins, from the very beginning, unlike others that are shown only important points without focusing on the little things. The video ends with the reverse assembly of everything and testing.

Video of replacing the timing belt and rollers in the Ford Fusion:

If you do not have the relevant experience, then it would be better to turn to a specialized service, since out of ignorance you can seriously mess up and the desired savings will turn into even more expenses for you, in extreme cases, you can take an experienced minder as an assistant who will be able to correct you at the right time.

When do you need to change the timing belt on a Ford Fusion? We advise you not to look at the Ford regulations, it is simply dangerous, the fact is that at first they wrote that it can easily withstand 180 thousand mileage, then they changed it to 120 thousand. On this machine, the belt was first replaced at 70 thousand mileage, on this replacement the mileage was already over 150 thousand km. and in the condition of the belt, visual inspection revealed damage. If the vehicle is operated in regions where very low temperatures, it is better to replace every 60 thousand km.