How to stretch canvas on a stretcher

Stretching the canvas on a stretcher - from 1 hour no rush fee. The stretching of paintings or canvas on a stretcher of any non-standard size takes place during the day. From 20x30 cm to 150 x 200 cm and more. If there are many canvases, the production time is negotiable.

canvases big size we pull on a pine stretcher with jumpers inside the stretcher, or even with a lattice of jumpers, so that the stretcher does not pull together over time from a strong stretch.

We can frame the stretched canvas with you in a baguette frame in 1 hour. There are 250 variants of wooden and plastic baguette for urgent production of frames. And 3000 baguette samples on order.

Canvas stretch on the stretcher (stretch + stretcher) From 1 hour, without surcharges for urgency	Size in cm	Stretch on the stretcher, depth (thickness) 2 cm, with the cost of the stretcher	Gallery, flat stretch on the stretcher, depth (thickness) 2 cm, with the cost of the stretcher	Gallery, flat stretch on the stretcher, depth (thickness) 3.5 cm, with the cost of the stretcher
	30x40	406 rub.	469 rub.	679 rub.
	40x60	580 rub.	670 rub.	970 rub.
	50x70	696 rub	804 rub.	1164 rub.
	60x80	812 rub	938 rub.	1358 rub.
	60x90	870 rub	1005 rub.	1455 rub.
	100x150	1450 rub.	1675 rub.	2425 rub.

For canvases with a gallery stretch from 80 x 120 cm and more, we recommend stretching on a stretcher 3.5 cm deep (Euro subframe).

Benefits of using a thick 35mm stretcher for stretching large canvases:

Firstly, the likelihood that the subframe will “lead” is reduced. Even the highest quality wooden stretcher can change its geometry due to strong humidity changes, which is not uncommon in St. Petersburg. A canvas stretched on a 35 mm thick stretcher is guaranteed to adhere tightly to the wall, without buckling with a strong change in humidity.

Secondly, large-sized canvases with a gallery stretch from 80x120 cm look more harmonious with a thick stretcher.

Padding of old canvases and paintings on a new stretcher.

Reupholstery of old paintings and canvases on a new stretcher is a very complex process that can only be entrusted to a very experienced framer. As a rule, the need for reupholstering occurs when the canvas is completely sagging, or the old stretcher is skewed, or the stretcher has become dilapidated.

Our master framer carefully removes fasteners of the old canvas to the stretcher, as a rule, these are nails. Further, after the canvas is removed from the old stretcher, the master makes a new stretcher, on which the old canvas will be stretched. And here, when stretching a canvas, especially a dilapidated one, more than ever, the experience of the master is important. It is necessary to stretch the canvas as tightly as possible, while being able to feel the limit, and not damage the canvas. Especially difficult cases- this is when the canvas is dilapidated, and there are practically no fields for stretching. But our experienced specialists, having experience of 8-15 years of stretching canvases, cope with any tasks.

Gallery stretching of canvas on a stretcher.

Gallery stretching is a method of decorating an unframed canvas in which the canvas is stretched over a stretcher so that the image on the canvas continues onto the sides of the stretcher itself. With a gallery stretch, the canvas is carefully wrapped in the corners and fixed with reverse side subframe.

The advantage of a gallery-stretched canvas is that you don't have to think about which baguette frame to frame the canvas in. In addition, if you are decorating a canvas for a gift, then the person to whom you give the canvas can subsequently choose a suitable baguette frame for the already stretched canvas, in accordance with his taste.

Stretching modular paintings on a stretcher.

If you ordered canvases for a modular painting from China over the Internet, and you are holding a bundle of canvases in your hands, not knowing what to do with it, please contact us. Within one day we will stretch your modular picture with gallery stretch. Or order from your photo with us.

Feature of our wooden stretcher:

– solid pine
– humidity 8+-2%
– knotless, spliced ​​on a minithorn, does not deform over time
– grade Extra
- sustained geometry.

Probably, artists will understand me if I say that it is much more pleasant to write the same sketch on canvas, which you yourself pulled on a stretcher, primed yourself for your specific tasks. After all, when you buy a ready-made primed canvas in a store and then stretch it onto the canvas, the tension is not always good. And the soil itself, unfortunately, often comes across poor quality. Once I bought such a canvas in the salon for a lot of money. And when I started to write, the paint layer began to wither. This is when the paint darkens, ceases to be saturated in color, and when it loses its gloss. The ideal canvas should be stretched so that a slight drum effect is created (this is after priming). If the canvas sags, then this is already bad. The soil must not crack. He must hold the paint so that it does not peel off over time. Well, the paint layer should not dry out, that is, the primer should not excessively absorb oil from the paint layer. All these tasks can be solved at home, with your own hands. Next, I will look at the first part of the tasks: how to properly stretch the canvas on the stretcher? (I wrote about subframe designs).

So, how to properly stretch the canvas on the stretcher? The canvas should be stretched with special tongs with wide "lips". But, I must say, I rarely use them. Basically, I do everything by hand. The canvas is attached to the stretcher with either small nails or a stapler. The caps may not hold the fabric, so the studs should not be driven all the way into the wood of the stretcher. Kill half. And bend the rest with a hammer.

You need to start from the middle of the subframe rail. Drive the first nail into the middle. Then, stretch the fabric with your fingers from this stud to the edge, to the corner of the stretcher - now drive in the second nail, next to the first. The distance between the nails should be an average of 5 cm. Next, drive in the third nail in the same way. When three nails are driven in, you can move on to the opposite side of the stretcher. To the side opposite the first. Here the first nail is also driven in in the middle. Just before you drive it in, you should try to stretch the fabric well. When the canvas is stretched and the nail is driven in, you can proceed to the neighboring carnations from this trio. But under them, the canvas must be pulled not only on itself, but also to the sides.

When we have stretched the canvas between the first pair of opposite sides of the stretcher, we can proceed to the remaining two. As a result, we get a cross-shaped tension of the fabric.
So we've made the base. Now we continue to stretch the canvas from each triple of nails to the corners of the stretcher. It is better to do this first on the left, then on the right. Left again, then right. This will result in a more even tension. The canvas, now, needs to be pulled not only towards itself, but also to the corners of the stretcher.

The meaning of the whole procedure lies in the uniform tension of the threads of the canvas. And that the tension was sufficient. After gluing and priming, the canvas should not sag.
So, if everything worked out and you have achieved your goals, then I can only congratulate you on the successful first experience of preparing a canvas for painting!

Alexey Epishin.

_______________________________________

Probably, the artists will understand me when I say that writing the same essay, much nicer on the canvas, which you yourself pulled on a stretcher, he primed for their specific tasks. After all, when you buy ready-primed canvas in the store and then pulls him onto the canvas, the tension is not that always good. Yes, and the ground is unfortunately often found across poor quality. Once I bought the canvas in the cabin for a lot of money. And when I began to write, the paint layer became dry up. This is when the paint darkens ceases to be saturated in color, and when it loses its luster. Perfect canvas to be stretched so as to create a small effect of the drum (this is after priming). If the canvas is slack, then it is bad. The soil should not crack. He should keep the paint so that it does not flake over time. Oh, and a layer of paint must not dry up, t. E. The soil should not unduly absorb the oil from the paint layer. All of these problems can be solved at home, with his own hands. Next, I will discuss the first part of the tasks: it is — how to pull the canvas on a frame?
So, how to stretch canvas on a frame? Pull the canvas should be special forceps with wide "lips." But I must say, I rarely use them. Basically, do everything by hand. Canvas is attached to the subframe or small nails or staples. The cap can not hold the fabric, so cloves should not be driven into wood stretcher completely. Drive half. And the rest of the bend hammer.

Should start from the middle rack of the subframe. Hammer the first nail in the middle. Then, pull the finger tissue from this stud to the edge, to the corner of the subframe - now the second drive in the nail, near the first one. The distance between nails should be an average of 5 cm. Further, the hammer in the same manner, the third nail. When the three nails hammered, you can move to the opposite side of the subframe. To the side opposite the first. There are also hammered the first nail in the middle. Just before he should try to drive well to pull the fabric. When the canvas is stretched and hammered a nail, you can begin to adjacent studs of the trio. But for them, you need to pull the canvas not only to themselves but also to the sides.
When we pulled the canvas between the first pair of opposite sides of the subframe, you can proceed to the remaining two. As a result, we get a cross-shaped tension fabric.
So, we made the foundation. Now continue to pull the canvas from each triple nails to the corners of the stretcher. Better to do it at first left, then right. Again the left, then right. So get a more even tension. Canvas, now need to pull not only to themselves but also to the corners of the stretcher.

The meaning of the whole procedure is uniform yarn tension of the canvas. And so the stress is sufficient. After sizing and priming the canvas should not sag.
So, if everything worked out and you have achieved the objectives, then I can only congratulate you on the successful first experience in training canvas for painting!

15.03.2016

How to properly stretch canvas on a stretcher

SUBFRAME

The stretcher serves as the basis for stretching the canvas. Subframes are of 2 types: modular(prefabricated, wedge) and deaf.
Modular (prefabricated, wedge) stretchers can be bought at almost all art stores. They are sold in slats of 2 pieces (in increments of 5 cm in length) and are slightly more expensive than blind subframes. As a rule, for a medium-sized painting, the thickness of the stretcher is 1.8 cm.
Modular subframes have a huge advantage: their corners are not rigidly fastened and if the picture sags, you can fix everything at home, you just need to knock out the wedges. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the canvas with a hammer and not to drag it.
At deaf stretchers, the corners are rigidly connected and if the canvas sags, then it will have to be pulled. Canvas upholstery should only be done by a specialist!

UNDERFRAME AND SAFETY OF THE PICTURE

Poor-quality stretcher negatively affects the preservation of painting. The paintings of modern painters very often have bad stretchers. Unfortunately, not all artists attach great importance subframe quality. Defects in the stretcher do not allow the canvas to be properly stretched over it, which ultimately leads to the destruction of the ground and the painting layer of the picture. A high-quality stretcher is the basis for the long preservation of paintings.

LET'S CONSIDER THE MAIN DEFECTS OF THE SUBFRAME:

§ blind connection of corners, which does not make it possible to adjust the tension of the canvas, which causes deformation of the canvas and its sagging

§ on the "blind" corners of the stretcher, the artists nailed plywood triangles, which make the stretcher even more rigid and immovable

§ the absence of a cross or crossbar - for large-sized paintings. A subframe with a cross or crossbar will not warp and the corners will remain straight

§ lack of bevels on the inner sides of the stretcher, which causes creases and scree of the paint layer

§ fragile stretcher, which, when stretching the canvas, skews

§ step-like, loose connection of planks in the corners and on the cross. With this defect, the canvas is deformed, creases and scree of the paint layer appear and it is impossible to tightly connect the picture to the frame.

§ the subframe is made carelessly, from raw wood, as a result of which, after a fairly short period of time, the subframe will “lead” and will have to be replaced (in some cases the frame has to be replaced)

§ the subframe is made of wood with knots. Even a well-made stretcher with knots will definitely “lead” over time and will have to be replaced

§ stretcher with grinder beetle. Thanks to the activity of these insects, the tree decays, turning into dust.

§ subframe is infested with mold

STRETCHING THE CANVAS ON THE MODULAR STRETCHER

§ Measure the diagonals of the subframe, they should be the same!!! Staple the corners (2 brackets per corner)

§ Arrange the drawing of the picture on the stretcher exactly horizontally. If you just have an unprimed canvas, it is important to position it so that the direction of the canvas threads is parallel to the edges of the stretcher

§ Using the stretching tool, staple the canvas on 4 sides as shown in the picture.

§ Fix the canvas with a stapler every 2-3 cm around the entire perimeter of the stretcher, moving from the center to the edge, as shown in the figure

§ You need to stretch the canvas with a tool for stretching paintings evenly with the same effort

§ Continue to stretch the canvas on the stretcher as shown in the picture. At the corners, the canvas is carefully tucked up and shot with a stapler

§ When stretching, do not wet the canvas from the non-primed side, this can lead to peeling of the primer !! So we started! .

To stretch the canvas on our stretcher, you will need a flat, clean surface, a pencil, a tape measure, a mallet, a hammer and a furniture stapler.

Before ordering a set of frame and stretcher for your canvas, it must be properly measured.

Canvas measurement

Lay the canvas on the table and measure the width and height of the image. This measurement should correspond to the front of the picture.

The rest of the canvas will go to the ends of the picture and to the inversion. This residue should be 3-4 cm on each side.
If the remainder is less than 3 cm, then the canvas will have to be stretched with the staples fixed to the end of the stretcher, which will negatively affect the quality of the tension. As an alternative, it is worth considering reducing the size of the front of the picture with a partial entry of the image on the ends.

The resulting size of the front of the picture must be used as the internal size of the frame when ordering a set of a frame with a stretcher.

Subframe Assembly

Modular subframe kit includes perimeter rails, cross rails (if large sizes) and wedges. For assembly, you will also need a tape measure and a mallet.

Connect the rails of the subframe by inserting the tenon into the groove. Make sure that the side of the subframe is on one side of all the slats.

If there are transverse or longitudinal strips in the kit, install them until the last perimeter strip is fixed.

Press all joints as much as possible with a mallet, make sure that the planks are joined strictly perpendicular.

To check the correct assembly, measure the diagonal of the subframe with a tape measure. When properly assembled, they should be equal. If the diagonals are different, align them with a mallet.

When assembling and leveling the subframe, avoid strong blows and don't use a hard hammer to break the perimeter planks.

Canvas stretch

Lay the canvas face down on a clean, flat surface.

With help simple pencil mark on the back of the canvas the places where the corners of the front of the picture are.

Lay the stretcher on the canvas side down. In this case, the corners of the subframe must coincide with the pencil marks.

Lightly stretching the canvas, wrap it in the center of the side rail of the stretcher and nail it with a furniture stapler. First on one side, then on the opposite.

Check that the canvas has not moved out, if necessary, slightly tighten and fix the other 2 sides - with a cross.

Staple the canvas to the stretcher from the center to the corners around the entire perimeter of the stretcher. Finally, carefully wrap and fix the corners.

Insert the wedges into the slots in the corners on the inside of the stretcher and bring the wedges to an acceptable tension by driving the wedges around with a hammer. If the subframe has longitudinal strips, wedges must also be inserted and driven in under them.

Measure the middle on the upper bar of the subframe and screw the gear suspension with self-tapping screws.

The picture is ready, you can put on the frame.

Sometimes an inexperienced beginner asks: why make a canvas with your own hands, because you can buy canvases in art stores different types and sizes. So it is! But there are situations when making canvases with your own hands is simply necessary!

For example, you have have a great idea for cityscape with evening city, but the store does not have this 50/100 cm canvas size. But you need a uniquely shaped canvas for painting, which is not available in stores. Or you have decided to paint a modular picture on several canvases, but there is simply no way to pick them up in finished form.

The idea of ​​a painting on a custom canvas

And besides, ART stores sell primed canvases in rolls, so why not make a painting with your own hands right from scratch in the format you need? Read more about how to choose a canvas in the article, where I described everything in detail.

The main difficulty of the work awaits at the first stage of the desired format of the stretcher. Make your own stretcher without special skills and tools are unlikely to succeed. Therefore, here it is necessary to decide which is better:

• buy ready-made stretcher
• have it made by a specialist, usually a carpenter
• purchase prepared modules (slats) to assemble the subframe yourself.

By the way, stretchers are usually made from well-dried pine wood, but there are brave artists who make plastic stretchers! Pictures on such a stretcher are not deformed even after many years!

Now I want to point out that canvases bought in art stores already glued and primed, even those sold in rolls. So after pulling it on the stretcher, it is quite possible to get to work.

Important: all stretchers for painting should be movable, that is, the slats should not be glued together. As a rule, they are sold with 8 blades that are inserted from the back and, if necessary, can push the slats a few millimeters apart.

How to make a canvas with your own hands

Until recently, the canvas was fixed on a stretcher with nails, now everything has been simplified thanks to such a thing as a stapler! A great thing for fasteners, quickly and without unnecessary damage to the fabric from nails.

To make a stretcher, we need: suitable stretcher, primed canvas, hammer, stapler, scissors, tape measure or ruler. And of course, self-confidence!

Stapler for attaching the canvas to the stretcher

So, step by step workflow:

First you need to determine the size of the canvas on the stretcher. It is necessary to cut the canvas with a margin of 5-6 cm on each side, so that the edges of the canvas wrap well on the back side of the stretcher.

Put the canvas on the table, place a stretcher on top so that so that the threads of the canvas are parallel to the slats of the stretcher. This is very important so that the finished canvas does not deform in the future.

Important: The stretcher must be placed on the canvas correctly so as not to accidentally confuse the sides. The sides on the stretcher are not the same, put it with the cut side inward. In order to be aesthetically beautiful and not to touch the canvas with the stretcher, such cuts of slats are needed. In the photo below, you can see that the stretcher slats do not fit snugly against the fabric. That's the way it should be...

Canvas Stretch Example

I will draw your attention to the fact that pulling primed canvas on a stretcher is more difficult, since the fabric no longer stretches so much under a layer of glue and soil. Therefore, some artists slightly dampen the canvas from the back, so that it becomes more elastic, more pliable. Do not worry, after drying everything will return to its place and the fabric will stretch even tighter! In this case, it is desirable to make an additional layer of soil, since micro-ruptures in the soil can occur when wetting.

By the way, it is believed that it is impossible to wet the canvas from the back, let me disagree with this ... Light moistening will not hurt, unless, of course, soaking so much that water flows from it

Wrap the edges of the canvas and fix them with a stapler. First work with the long side, starting from the middle of the subframe bar. Mark the mount in 3-4 staples and turn the canvas 180 degrees. Pin the fabric to the opposite side. Make sure that the distance between the brackets is no more than 2-3 cm.

Now fasten the canvas to the short strips of the stretcher. It is good to stretch the canvas, step by step to fix it with a stapler. Work with the corners of the canvas last. This is the most critical area of ​​work, and it will depend on appearance future picture. Gently stretch the fabric, tuck and secure with staples.

Important: stretch the canvas from the center to be tighter

Inspect the result, tap the staples with a hammer, add more fasteners if necessary. Flip the canvas face up and check the quality of the work.

What to look for:

• tension density should be uniform
• folds and creases of the canvas are unacceptable
• when tapping with your fingers, you should feel the surface of the drum.

If the canvas is loose, there are sagging or other flaws, do not worry, all the amendments are in our hands! We stock up on patience, remove the staples and redo the work where there is a need for this. Every artist knows that under the weight of colors there is a colossal load on the canvas. Which means it will stretch even more.

On a note: if you have to make a canvas for drawing a large size, then it is difficult to do without special pliers (tweezers for stretching the canvas). They can be purchased at art stores.

Nippers for stretching canvases

If you want to stretch the canvas not yet primed, then it is better to do as shown in the photo below. First we stretch and fix the center of all four sides crosswise, gradually stretching the canvas trying to keep the lines of the fabric parallel. To prevent the fabric from being pulled, use the same amount of tension.

Keep in mind that the fabric is stretchy, and if you pull it in one place, it can sag in another. At least for large canvases, if you stretch it alone. I had to do this, ... If all the same, something went wrong, I advise you to drag the canvas before you continue making the canvas.

Picture with an example of canvas stretching

The photo shows an example using nails for fastening to the side of the subframe. In the store you can find these, that's how they used to be made. Most importantly, remember that the tension is uniform and the threads of the fabric ran parallel to the slats of the stretcher

Sizing

And now we'll talk about if an ordinary fabric was originally purchased, that is, cotton, synthetic or linen. The information will be of interest to those who do not have the opportunity to buy ready-made canvases, as well as to those who who wants to go through all the steps and make the canvas completely by himself!

It is difficult to paint a picture on unprepared material, and most importantly, not practical, because the paints will be absorbed through the holes in the weave of the threads. In addition, paints on unprimed canvas are prone to cracking and flaking over time.

Therefore, the next step is gluing it!

Why glue the canvas? Firstly, gluing makes the fabric base stable, Secondly, protects the canvas from the passage of a binder of paints and soil to its back side, and thirdly, “clogs” the pores in the fabric, preventing the paint from seeping inside

In addition, after applying the sizing, the canvas acquires an elastic, durable film. The primer is better applied to the glued canvas, the sizing prevents the oil from being drawn out of the paints. So, it increases the durability of painting and prevents dryness of paints. Do you know that more than one painted canvas suffered from improper sizing and primer!

You can buy glue or make your own.
Sizing in the artist's store is a paste made on the basis of natural resins and glue, it dissolves with water. As a rule, store-bought ready-made sizings contain special substances that prevent the appearance of mold and mildew on the canvas. This is also very important, because over the years the fabric can be moldy, if, for example, the humidity in the room is high.

Working with her is easy and simple. To apply the sizing to the canvas, you will need a wide brush or spatula, a table or other horizontal surface. Apply a thin layer of the paste with a spatula or brush without pushing it through the fabric. Dry for 3-6 hours. Repeat another layer if necessary. In any case, the jar says how many times to apply sizing.

Finished sizing for canvas

And remember how artists used to glue the canvas without special tools! For gluing with canvas, many artists themselves cooked carpentry glue or fish (sturgeon) and casein glue. A very laborious and lengthy process! Moreover, such glue was applied only once and in a thin even layer. If the canvas is re-pasted with samovar glue, then it becomes rigid, and cracks may even appear, followed by stress on the canvas.

Today, many artists make sizing with edible gelatin. To do this, pour a bag of gelatin with water so that it is completely covered, mix and leave for a couple of hours. After swelling of the gelatin, pour boiling water in the same proportion.

It is applied with a spatula, so it turns out evenly. Dry for a day, and make a second sizing. There are holes on a poorly glued canvas (non-glued fabric pores). Therefore, to determine the quality of gluing, look at the canvas in the light, if it is translucent, glue it again.

Gluing the canvas with gelatin

Also, for sizing canvases, semi-liquid PVA glue is used, although reviews of such sizing are far from forest ones. I know that PVA sizing is used for cardboard. Many artists consider sturgeon, i.e. fish, to be the best glue, so I believe that gelatin is the best alternative, as it is a natural glue of animal connective tissue products!

In France, where I have lived for the last 17 years, they use rabbit glue, made from rabbit skin, to glue the canvas. I think that each country has its own preferences for the adhesive composition, the main thing is that it be natural! If you are interested in painting, then you will be interested in an article with charming charm! After all, acquaintance with painting begins not only with canvases, paints and brushes, but also with beautiful creative world artists!

I note that there are artists who do not do sizing at all, and slowly tighten the pores, holes only with soil. Whether this is correct or not, only the lifetime of the picture will show. By the way, what brings the picture to a deplorable state, and how can it be restored

How to prime a canvas

Why do you need a primer on the canvas? This is important an intermediate layer, a "strong conductor" between the base and the painting, so that it can adhere firmly to the canvas. It also helps to create the necessary texture and color tone. The soil can be bought ready-made, as well as sizing, or you can make it yourself.

Canvas primer can be adhesive, emulsion, acrylic, oil, semi-oil, synthetic. Those canvases that are on sale are coated with an emulsion, acrylic primer. For example, we write on the canvas: « Gesso acrylic primer coated canvas 4 times" in French

Therefore, the most optimal choice is an acrylic, emulsion primer for canvas. It is versatile, great for painting with oil, acrylic and gouache paints.

Acrylic primer for canvas

Although there are artists who scold such a primer and believe that it is not suitable for oil painting. I will say that we only sell these .... sometimes I myself make an additional semi-oil primer over acrylic. Primer options - a lot, and each master prefers his own recipes and secrets in this matter.

The primer itself consists of two or three stages, so you should not force things and strive to prime the canvas at a time!

Can be used for primer acrylic paint for building work and make your own primer (see recipe below) or buy ready-made primer from an art store. For the first layer, the paint is slightly diluted with water. to the consistency of very liquid sour cream. Sometimes it is recommended to add a little sizing to the first primer, which was mentioned earlier. This increases the adhesion of the soil to the canvas.

So, with wide strokes with a flute or a wide brush, apply a primer to the canvas. Try not to run the brush several times in one place and not to make influxes. To make the primer super even, you can use construction wide spatulas or a mini-roller, it's fast and with less soil.

Uniform priming of the canvas with a roller

After drying the first layer of soil, apply the second. Dry and inspect the canvas. Drying time 12-14 hours depending on the humidity of your room.

On a note: Make sure there are no drafts during drying! According to the observations of many artists, this is not favorable for the canvas.

If you are satisfied with the texture of the canvas and its background, then you can complete the work on this. If necessary, make a few more layers of soil.

Well, if you decide to make a primer yourself, then here is a great recipe for good adhesion, that is, adhesion of the paint to the ground

• 200 gr building emulsion
• 1 yolk
• 2 tsp glycerin, i.e. 10 gr as a plasticizer
• ½ packet gelatin, pre-soaked and diluted
• 5 tsp linseed oil, which will make the soil more elastic
• 1 tsp semi-liquid honey as a natural antiseptic

That's all! The canvas is ready for painting! Write your colorful pictures and be filled with the energy of color, because it is known to do real miracles! About all the charm of color therapy

Conclusion: as you can see, you can assemble a canvas with your own hands in different ways, you can look at things conservatively and correctly, or you can be creative, not stereotyped .... The main thing is that the canvas turned out to be aesthetically correct and the result of your labors will please you with the brightness of colors for a long time!

Remember: "There's never a big deal without a big challenge"- so said Voltaire, French poet, philosophers, historian

Friends, so that the article does not get lost among many other articles on the Internet, save it in your bookmarks. She will always be at hand if you want to return to her!

Ask your questions below in the comments, I usually answer all questions quickly