If you can not go to Everest - do not go ...

Everest has long been turned into a cemetery. There are countless corpses on it and no one is in a hurry to lower them down. It cannot be that people are left to lie where death overtook them. But at an altitude of 8000 meters, the rules are somewhat different. On Everest, groups of climbers pass by unburied corpses scattered here and there, they are the same climbers, only they were not lucky. Some of them fell off and broke their bones, some froze or simply weakened and still froze.

Many people know that conquering peaks is deadly. And those who go up don't always go down. Both beginners and experienced climbers die on the Mountain.


But to my surprise, not many people know that the dead remain where fate has caught them. It is at least strange for us, people of civilization, the Internet and the city, to hear that the same Everest has long turned into a cemetery. There are countless corpses on it and no one is in a hurry to lower them down.

In the mountains, the rules are somewhat different. Good or bad - not for me and not from home to judge. Sometimes it seems to me that there is very little human in them, but even being at five and a half kilometers, I did not feel too good to, for example, drag something weighing about fifty kilograms. What can we say about people in the Death Zone - an altitude of eight kilometers and above.

Everest is modern Golgotha. Anyone who goes there knows that he has a chance not to return. Roulette with Mountain. Lucky - no luck. Not everything depends on you. Hurricane wind, frozen valve on an oxygen tank, wrong timing, avalanche, exhaustion, etc.

Everest often proves to people that they are mortal. At least the fact that when you go up you see the bodies of those who are never destined to go down again.

According to statistics, about 1500 people climbed the mountain.

Remained there (according to various sources) from 120 to 200. Can you imagine? Here are very revealing statistics until 2002 about dead people on the mountain (name, nationality, date of death, place of death, cause of death, whether he reached the top).

Among these 200 people there are those who will always meet new conquerors. According to various sources, there are eight openly lying bodies on the northern route. Among them are two Russians. From the south is about ten. And if you move left or right...

No one keeps statistics of defectors there, because they climb mostly as savages and in small groups of three to five people. And the price of such an ascent is from $25t to $60t. Sometimes they pay extra with their lives if they saved on little things.

"Why are you going to Everest?" asked George Mallory, the first conqueror of the ill-fated summit. "Because he is!"

It is believed that Mallory was the first to conquer the summit and died already on the descent. In 1924, Mallory and his partner Irving began their ascent. They were last seen through binoculars in a break in the clouds just 150 meters from the summit. Then the clouds converged and the climbers disappeared.

They did not return back, only in 1999, at an altitude of 8290 m, the next conquerors of the summit came across many bodies that had died over the past 5-10 years. Mallory was found among them. He was lying on his stomach, as if trying to hug the mountain, his head and hands frozen into the slope.

Irving's partner was never found, although the harness on Mallory's body suggests that the couple were with each other until the very end. The rope was cut with a knife and perhaps Irving could move around and left his comrade, died somewhere down the slope.

In 1934, the Englishman Wilson made his way to Everest, disguised as a Tibetan monk, who decided to prayerfully cultivate the willpower in himself sufficient to climb to the top. After unsuccessful attempts to reach the North Col, abandoned by the Sherpas accompanying him, Wilson died of cold and exhaustion. His body, as well as the diary he wrote, were found by an expedition in 1935.

A well-known tragedy that shocked many occurred in May 1998. Then a married couple died - Sergey Arsentiev and Francis Distefano.

Sergey Arsentiev and Francis Distefano-Arsentiev, having spent three nights on 8,200 m (!), climbed and reached the summit on 22/05/1998 at 18:15. The ascent was made without the use of oxygen. Thus, Francis became the first American woman and only the second woman in history to climb without oxygen.

During the descent, the couple lost each other. He went down to the camp. She is not.

The next day, five Uzbek climbers went to the top past Francis - she was still alive. The Uzbeks could help, but for this they refused to climb. Although one of their comrades has already ascended, in this case the expedition is already considered successful. Some offered her oxygen (which she refused at first, not wanting to spoil her record), others poured a few sips of hot tea, there was even a married couple who tried to gather people to drag her to the camp, but they soon left, as put their own lives at risk.


On the descent we met Sergei. They said they saw Francis. He took oxygen tanks and went. But he disappeared. Probably blown away by a strong wind into a two-kilometer abyss.

The next day there are three other Uzbeks, three Sherpas and two from South Africa - 8 people! They approach her - she has already spent the second cold night, but she is still alive! Again, everyone passes by - to the top.

“My heart sank when I realized that this man in a red and black suit was alive, but completely alone at an altitude of 8.5 km, just 350 meters from the summit,” recalls the British climber. “Kathy and I, without thinking, turned off the route and tried to do everything possible to save the dying woman. Thus ended our expedition, which we had been preparing for years, begging for money from sponsors ... We did not immediately manage to get to it, although it lay close. Moving at such a height is the same as running underwater...

We found her, tried to dress the woman, but her muscles atrophied, she looked like rag doll and muttered all the time: “I am an American. Please, do not leave me"...

We dressed her for two hours. My concentration was lost due to a bone-piercing rattling sound that broke the ominous silence, Woodhall continues his story. “I realized that Katie was about to freeze to death herself. We had to get out of there as soon as possible. I tried to lift Frances and carry her, but it was useless. My futile attempts to save her put Kathy at risk. We couldn't do anything."

Not a day went by that I didn't think about Frances. A year later, in 1999, Katie and I decided to try again to get to the top. We succeeded, but on the way back we were horrified to notice the body of Frances, she lay exactly as we had left her, perfectly preserved under the influence low temperatures.


Nobody deserves such an end. Cathy and I promised each other to return to Everest again to bury Frances. For preparation new expedition gone 8 years. I wrapped Francis in an American flag and included a note from my son. We pushed her body into a cliff, away from the eyes of other climbers. Now she rests in peace. Finally, I was able to do something for her." Ian Woodhall.

A year later, the body of Sergei Arseniev was found: “I apologize for the delay with the photographs of Sergei. We definitely saw him - I remember the purple down suit. He was in a kind of bow position, lying just behind Jochenovsky (Jochen Hemmleb - expedition historian - S.K.) "implicitly expressed rib" in the Mallory area at about 27150 feet (8254 m). I think it's him." Jake Norton, member of the 1999 expedition.

But in the same year there was a case when people remained people. On the Ukrainian expedition, the guy spent almost the same place as the American, a cold night. His own people lowered him to the base camp, and then more than 40 people from other expeditions helped. He got off lightly - four fingers were removed.

“In such extreme situations, everyone has the right to decide: to save or not to save a partner ... Above 8000 meters you are completely occupied with yourself and it is quite natural that you do not help another, since you have no extra strength.” Miko Imai.

“It is impossible to afford the luxury of morality at an altitude of more than 8000 meters”

In 1996, a group of climbers from the Japanese University of Fukuoka climbed Mount Everest. Very close to their route were three distressed climbers from India - emaciated, ill people got into a high-altitude storm. The Japanese passed by. A few hours later, all three were dead.

Read

Every climber is well aware that mountain peaks, whose height exceeds 8000 meters, are fraught with mortal danger for their conquerors. Under conditions, the human body completely loses its ability to recover, which is often the reason. The tragedy on Everest in May 1996 was a vivid confirmation of this.

Victims of the insidious peak

By a fatal coincidence, the whole of 1996 entered a sad page in the history of the conquest of Everest. During the season, fifteen people lost their lives storming this treacherous peak. Two commercial climbing groups, Mountain Madness and Adventure Consultants, were also in trouble.

As evidenced by the chronicle of the tragedy on Everest in 1996, they included six experienced highly qualified guides, eight Sherpas - local residents hired as porter guides, and sixteen clients who paid sixty-five thousand dollars for the opportunity to play with death on icy slopes. For five, the ascent ended tragically.

How the 1996 Everest tragedy began

In the early morning of May 10, when the sun's rays had not yet illuminated the tops of the mountains, thirty daredevils began the assault on Everest - a peak rising 8848 meters above sea level. The groups were led by serious professionals Rob Hall and Scott Fisher. They knew that the entire area beyond 8000 meters was called the "death zone", and understood the need for careful preparation of the climbers and strict adherence to established rules, especially when it comes to such treacherous peaks as Everest. The year 1996, the tragedy of which shocked sports fans, became a black page in the history of world mountaineering.

As those who were lucky enough to survive later testified, problems arose from the very beginning of the assault. The ascent schedule, which strictly regulated the time required to overcome each section of the slope, was immediately violated, as it turned out that the Sherpas had not coped with the installation of rope railings on the group's path. When, finally, we got to the most important site, bearing the name, we lost more than an hour of precious time there due to the accumulation of climbers from other groups.

Climbers have a rule that says: "I'm behind schedule, don't expect trouble - come back!" Four commercial group clients Stuart Hutchinson, John Taske, Frank Fishbeck and Lou Kazischke followed this sage advice and survived. The rest of the climbers continued on their way. By five o'clock in the morning they reached the next important milestone, located at an altitude of 8350 meters and called the "Balcony". There again there was a delay, this time due to lack of insurance. But only a hundred meters remained to the cherished peak. She beckoned, clearly looming against the backdrop of the ideal blue sky, and this proximity to the goal intoxicated and dulled the sense of danger.

On the top

One hundred meters - is it a lot or a little? If you measure from home to the nearest cafe, then it’s very close, but when it comes to an almost vertical slope, rarefied air and a temperature of -40 ° C, then in this case they can stretch into icy infinity. Therefore, each climber overcame the last, most difficult section of the ascent on his own, choosing the speed depending on his own well-being and reserve of strength.

At about one in the afternoon, the Russian Anatoly Bukreev, an experienced climber, Honored Master of Sports, climbed Everest. He first set foot on this peak in 1991 and subsequently conquered eleven more eight-thousanders of the planet. Twice he was awarded for personal courage. He has saved many lives on his account, including when climbing Everest (the tragedy of 1996). Anatoly died a year later under an avalanche in the Himalayas.

A little behind Boukreev, two more appeared at the top - a commercial client, John Brakauer, and a guide from Adventure Consultants, Andy Harris. Half an hour later they were joined by Mountain Madness guide Neil Beidleman and their client Martin Adams. The rest of the climbers were far behind.

belated descent

According to the schedule, the deadline for the descent was set at two in the afternoon, but by this time most of the climbers had not yet climbed to the top, and when they finally succeeded, people rejoiced and took pictures for too long. Thus, time was irretrievably lost. This was one of the reasons for the event now known as the 1996 Everest tragedy.

It was only about sixteen hours that the base camp received a message that all the climbers were at the top. He was the first to descend, because of all those present, he spent the longest time at the maximum height and could no longer do without additional oxygen. His task was to return to Camp IV - the last stop before the summit, to rest and return to help the others, taking with him oxygen bottles and a thermos of hot tea.

In mountain captivity

Survivors of the 1996 tragedy on Everest later said that by the beginning of the descent of Anatoly, the weather had deteriorated sharply, the wind had risen, and visibility had deteriorated. It became impossible to stay further on the peak, and the rest of the team also pulled down. went down with one of the Sherpas named Lopsang.

Having reached the "Balcony" and being at the level of 8230 meters, they were forced to linger due to the extremely poor health of Fischer, who by that time had severe cerebral edema - a frequent phenomenon at extreme altitudes. He sent Lopsang to continue his descent and, if possible, bring help.

When the Sherpa reached Camp IV, the people who were in it were not ready to leave the tents and again find themselves on the mountain slope among the snowstorm that had risen by that time. last hope was assigned to Bukreev, but at that time he was taking out of snow captivity three people- Sandy Pittman, Charlotte Fox and Tim Madsen. Only in the middle of the next day did they manage to get up to Fischer, but he was already dead. His body could not be brought down, so they simply filled up with stones on the mountain slope. Everest conquered by him (1996) became a monument to Scott. Tragedy continued its grim harvest.

By this time, the wind had increased even more, and the snow raised by it limited visibility literally to arm's length. In this difficult environment a group of climbers from the "Adventure Consultants" squad lost their way, completely losing their bearings. They tried to find their way to Camp IV and moved blindly until they fell exhausted at the very edge of the abyss, fortunately not reaching it a few meters.

The same Bukreev saved them from certain death. In the impenetrable snowy mess, he managed to find the freezing climbers and drag them one by one to the camp. This episode was later described in detail by Neil Beidleman, one of those who were lucky enough to escape death by conquering Everest (1996).

Tragedy

Anatoly did everything in his power. He could not help only two: the Japanese Yasuka Namba was already in a hopeless state by that time, and another member of the group, Withers, was lost in a snowstorm and could not be found. The next morning, he himself reached the camp, but was so frostbitten that no one hoped for a successful outcome. He survived, but when he was taken to the hospital by helicopter, the doctors had to amputate him. right hand, all left fingers and nose. It was such a misfortune for him to climb Everest (1996).

The tragedy that broke out on May 11 continued in full measure the next day. When the last climbers left the summit, the chain was closed by two: Rob Hall and his friend Doug Hansen. After some time, Rob received an alarming message that Doug had passed out. They urgently needed oxygen, and Adventure Consultants guide Andy Harris headed towards them with a tank.

When he succeeded, Hansen was still alive, but in critical condition. The situation was complicated by the fact that Rob's own oxygen tank regulator was iced up, and he could not be connected to the mask. After some time, Harris, who came to the rescue, suddenly disappeared in the snowy haze.

During the last radio session, Rob Hall reported that both climbers who were with him were dead, and he was practically hopeless due to severe frostbite. The man asked to be connected to his pregnant wife, Jan Arnold, who remained in New Zealand. After saying a few words of comfort to her, Rob permanently turned off the radio. The tragedy on Everest in 1996 ended the life of this man. It was not possible to save him, and only twelve days later, members of another expedition found the body petrified in the cold.

The tragedy on Mount Everest in 1996 had a sad result. The group "Mountain Madness" suffered fewer losses, but during the descent from the summit, its leader Scott Fisher died. The second team - "Adventure Consultants" - lost immediately four people. They were: leader Rod Hall, his regular client Doug Hansen, climbing instructor Andy Harris and Japanese athlete Yasuko Namba, who did not reach Camp IV quite a bit.

Causes of the disaster

Today, after many years since the day of sad events, analyzing the causes of this most large-scale tragedy in the Himalayas, experts come to the conclusion that there were several of them. Conquering mountain heights exceeding eight thousand meters is always associated with risk, but its degree largely depends on how strictly the requirements for climbing participants are observed.

Among the reasons that resulted in the tragedy on Everest (May 1996), first of all, there are violations associated with the ascent schedule. In accordance with the plan outlined earlier, both groups, having started the ascent at midnight on May 10, were supposed to reach the mountain range at dawn, and at 10 am on May 11 to be at the South Summit.

At the end point of the ascent - Everest - it was supposed to rise at noon. This plan remained unfulfilled, and the ascent stretched out to 16 hours. Violations provoked a series of fatal events that led to the death of people. The rule "I'm out of schedule, don't expect trouble - come back!" was ignored.

One of the reasons why there was a tragedy on Everest in May 1996, researchers cite a number of delays during the ascent. The plan for the ascent was that Lapsang and Rob Sherpas would leave the camp before the rest of the team and set up a rope railing near the South Summit for the safety of the climbers. They didn't because one of them had a mountain sickness attack. This work had to be done by guides Boukreev and Beidleman, which caused an additional delay.

Security Violations

In addition, the organizers of the ascent committed a gross violation of safety rules that day. The fact is that on May 11, three groups went out at once to storm Everest. The tragedy of 1996 was largely due to the fact that on that day there were an excessive number of climbers on the slope, and a traffic jam arose before the last, most difficult section of the ascent.

As a result, at an altitude of 8500 meters, in the condition of rarefied air and severe frost, tired people were forced to wait for their turn, standing in the piercing wind. Subsequently, analyzing the reasons that resulted in the tragedy on Everest in 1996, the organizers of the ascent were justified by the hopes that a large number of participants in the ascent would help them more easily cope with deep snow and other difficulties of the route.

The impact of natural factors on climbers

Everyone making ascents, and even more so the one who organizes them, should know that at extreme heights the human body is subject to a number of negative influences. Among them is a lack of oxygen caused by low air pressure, and frost, sometimes reaching the mark of -75 ° C.

Aggravated by extreme fatigue as a result of climbing a mountain slope, these factors lead to an increase in heart rate, respiration, and sometimes hypothermia and hypoxia. At such heights, the body completely loses its ability to recover, and increased physical activity leads to its ultimate exhaustion. These are the dangers of Everest. The tragedy of 1996, which played out on its slopes, was a vivid and sad confirmation of this.

As practice shows, among the causes of death of climbers at high altitudes, the most common is cerebral edema. It is the result of low oxygen content in the air and leads to paralysis, coma and death. Another cause of death in conditions of rarefied air and low temperatures is called pulmonary edema. It often ends with inflammation, bronchitis and broken ribs.

The lack of oxygen, aggravated by high loads, often causes heart attacks, which, in the absence of immediate medical attention, can also lead to death. A considerable danger to a person who finds himself in the mountains is also blindness caused by the brilliance of snow in clear weather. It leads to accidents, witnessed by Everest. The tragedy (1996), the photos of the participants of which illustrate this article, provided rich material for understanding its causes and developing security measures.

And finally, frostbite. As noted above, on eight-thousanders the temperature often drops to -75 °C. If we take into account that the wind gusts here reach 130 kilometers per hour, then it becomes clear what danger to people's lives such extreme weather conditions pose.

In addition to the extremely negative impact on the physical condition of a person, all of these factors significantly worsen his mental abilities. This affects short-term and long-term memory, mental clarity, the ability to adequately assess the situation and, as a result, makes it impossible to make the right decisions.

In order to stimulate the body's resistance to negative factors affecting it, acclimatization is practiced. However, in this case her schedule was messed up. The reason for this was the delay in the installation of high-altitude camps, as well as the low training of the climbers themselves. As can be seen from their recollections, many did not know how to correctly distribute their forces and, wanting to save them, showed unreasonable slowness on the ascent.

Weather factor and lack of oxygen

Experienced climbers know that even the most thorough preparation of an expedition is no guarantee of its success. A lot depends on how lucky the weather is. Everest is an area where it changes with amazing speed. Within a short period of time, a transition from a clear sunny day to a snowy hurricane is possible, covering everything around with impenetrable haze.

This is exactly what happened on that ill-fated day, May 11, 1996. The tragedy on Everest broke out also because, when the climbers, who had barely survived the delight of conquering the summit, began their descent, the weather deteriorated sharply. A blizzard and snowstorm severely limited visibility and obscured the markers showing the way to Camp IV. As a result, a group of climbers got lost, losing their bearings.

The hurricane wind, which reached 130 kilometers per hour that day, and the severe frost not only put people in danger of being swept into the abyss, but also led to a decrease in atmospheric pressure. As a result, the oxygen content in the air dropped. It reached 14%, which greatly exacerbated the situation. This concentration necessitated the immediate use of the oxygen tanks, which had by then been completely used up. The result was a critical situation. There was a threat of loss of consciousness, pulmonary edema and imminent death.

The lack of balloons is a mistake of the climbing organizers, which Everest did not forgive them. The tragedy of 1996 also happened because some of its participants were unprepared people who could not tolerate rarefied air. During acclimatization trips they had to sleep with oxygen tanks, which significantly increased their consumption. In addition, they were needed in large numbers to rescue Ngawang Sherpa, who was urgently evacuated from a height.

The danger lurking in the commercial approach to mountaineering

And one more important factor that caused the sad event on May 11, 1996. The tragedy on Everest was to some extent the result of the commercialization of mountaineering, which began in the nineties. Then structures appeared and quickly developed, aimed solely at extracting profit from the desire of customers to participate in conquering the peaks. For them, neither the level of training of these people, nor their age, nor their physical condition played a role.

The main thing was that the required amount was paid. In the case of Mountain Madness and Adventure Consultants, it was sixty-five thousand dollars. The price included the services of professional guides, expenses for food, equipment, transportation to the base camp and escort to the peak of the mountain.

Subsequently, one of the guides admitted that the clients who were part of the "Mountain Madness" crept up so unprepared for the ascent that he was sure of failure in advance, and, nevertheless, led them to a height accessible only to experienced athletes. Thus, the lives of not only these tourists, but also all those who went with them, were endangered. At altitude, the mistake of one person can lead to the death of the entire group. In part, this is what happened. The tragedy on Everest (1996), whose participants became victims of commercial interests, is a vivid confirmation of this.

Over the weekend, it became known about the death of three climbers on Everest. They died from altitude sickness. It is not known when the bodies of the dead will be returned to their relatives. Now there are more than 200 corpses on the highest point of the Earth. "Futurist" figured out how climbers die and why they are not buried.

When climbers try to conquer Everest, they must accept a painful truth: if a mountain takes a life, it will not give up a body to loved ones. Currently, more than 200 bodies of climbers remain on Everest. The highest peak of the Earth, fraught with a mystery and challenging the daredevils, is now turning into a cemetery. To reach the summit, climbers are forced to step over the bodies of their predecessors.

“The bodies of climbers and Sherpas (representatives of the indigenous Nepalese people who often become guides in the mountains, approx. ed.) are hidden in cracks, they are buried under avalanche snow and rest on the catchment area of ​​the slopes - their mangled limbs burned out in the sun,” writes the BBC future.

The main landmark for climbers is the "Green Shoes Cave". In 1995, an Indian climber climbed there to hide from a snow storm, but the stone vaults of the cave could not save him, and he froze. Since then, his body has shown the way for other summit climbers.

The sad statistics continues to grow due to the increase in the number of people who want to climb to the top. Known this weekend about the death of three more climbers: Subhash Pavel from India, Eric Ary Arnold from Holland and Maria Strydom from Australia.

Everest has been climbed so many times that it's easy to forget how dangerous it is. Many climbers die during storms or fall down while climbing to the top. According to statistics, most deaths on Everest are due to avalanches. In 2014, an avalanche buried 16 climbers under itself at a height of 5.8 km - after this, the ascent was temporarily banned. 2015 was the only year when Everest became truly inaccessible: not a single daredevil managed to conquer it. Only on May 11 of this year, an expedition of nine people led by a Sherpa conquered the highest peak of the Earth.

For those who nevertheless approached the cherished goal and boldly assert that the height of Everest is just the height above sea level, the danger lies elsewhere. In high-altitude mountaineering, there is a term "lethal zone" or "death zone". This is an altitude mark of 8000 meters, where a person can stay no more than 2-3 days. During this time, a person loses resistance to the action of altitude and falls ill with altitude sickness. Symptoms of this disease were observed in those who died this weekend, Pavel, Arnold and Strid. Mountain sickness is calledoxygen starvation (hypoxia), caused by a decrease in oxygen pressure in the inhaled air. It is difficult for climbers to adapt to the dry mountain air and gusts of wind that make breathing difficult. Hypoxia is exacerbated by physical fatigue, dehydration and ultraviolet radiation. Staying on high altitude for a long time, the climber becomes lethargic, his coordination is gradually disturbed, speech disorders are observed. The mind and body seem to turn off: at this moment, a person can make an ill-considered decision, overestimating his physical capabilities. The climber, struck with altitude sickness, is in a state of euphoria and actively resists the attempts of his comrades to interrupt the ascent and lower the patient down. He may be unable to act quickly in a dangerous situation.

When the bodies of the three dead climbers will be lowered from the mountain peak is still unknown. Returning the body to the family of the deceased costs tens of thousands of dollars and requires the efforts of six to eight Sherpas, whose lives are at great risk.

"Even pick up a candy wrapper on high mountain very difficult because it is completely frozen and you have to dig around it,” says Ang Tshering Sherpa, president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association. “A dead body, which usually weighs 80 kg, weighs 150 kg under such conditions. In addition, you have to dig it out along with the surrounding ice.”

In addition, some climbers want their bodies to remain on Everest in the event of their death - such a tradition. However, their followers, who have to step over human remains, find this tradition creepy. Sometimes the bodies of the dead are piled into cracks or covered with stones, forming something like a barrow. Since 2008, the Nepalese Mountaineering Association has been sending expeditions to the peak that dispose of garbage, human waste and deal with burials.

The conquest of Everest is no longer a conquest in the truest sense of the word. There are few corners left on Earth that can be conquered. You can climb Everest to scatter the ashes in the wind loved one, draw the name of your girlfriend on the ice, feel like omnipotent.

The main thing is to remember the person whose body is now showing the way to others. He hardly wanted such a fate for himself.

Mira keeps not only piles of garbage, but also the remains of its conquerors. For many decades, the corpses of losers adorn the most high point planets, and no one intends to remove them from there. Most likely, the number of unburied bodies will only increase.

Attention, impressionable pass by!

The media in 2013 got hold of a photo from the very top of Everest. Dean Carrere, a famous climber from Canada, took a selfie against the background of the sky, rocks and a pile of garbage brought earlier by his predecessors.

At the same time, on the slopes of the mountain you can see not only various garbage, but also buried bodies people who stayed there forever. The summit of Everest is known for its extreme conditions, which literally turn it into a mountain of death. Everyone to conquer the Chomolungma must understand that the conquest of this peak may be the last.

Night temperatures here drop to minus 60 degrees! Closer to the top, gale-force winds blow at speeds of up to 50 m/s: at such moments, frost is felt by the human body as minus 100! Plus, the extremely rarefied atmosphere at such a height contains very little oxygen, literally on the border of deadly limits. Under such loads, even the most enduring heart suddenly stops, equipment often fails - for example, the valve of an oxygen cylinder may freeze. The slightest mistake is enough to lose consciousness and, having fallen, no longer get up ...

At the same time, it is almost impossible to expect that someone will come to your rescue. The ascent to the legendary peak is fantastically difficult, and only real fanatics meet here. As one of the participants of the Russian Himalayan expedition, Alexander Abramov, master of sports of the USSR in mountaineering, put it:

“The corpses on the route are a good example and a reminder to be more careful on the mountain. But every year there are more and more climbers, and according to the statistics of corpses, it will increase every year. What is unacceptable in normal life is regarded as the norm at high altitudes.”

Among those who have been there, there are terrible stories ...

Local residents - Sherpas, naturally adapted to life in these harsh conditions, are hired as guides and porters for climbers. Their services are simply indispensable - they provide both ropes, equipment delivery, and, of course, rescue. But for them to come to
help need money...

Sherpas at work.

These people risk themselves every day so that even moneybags unprepared for difficulties can get their portion of the impressions that they want to get for their money.

Climbing Everest is a very expensive pleasure, costing between $ 25,000 and $ 60,000. Those who are trying to save money sometimes have to pay extra on this account with their very lives ... There are no official statistics, but according to those who returned, no one is buried forever on the slopes of Everest less than 150 people, and possibly all 200 ...

Groups of climbers pass the frozen bodies of their predecessors: at least eight unburied corpses lie near the common paths on the northern route, ten more on the southern route, reminding of the serious danger that afflicts a person in these places. Some of the unfortunates rushed to the top in the same way, but fell off and crashed, someone froze to death, someone lost consciousness from a lack of oxygen ... And it is highly not recommended to deviate from the beaten routes - you stumble, and no one will come to your rescue risking his own life. The mountain of death does not forgive mistakes, and people here are as indifferent to misfortune as rocks.

Below is the alleged corpse of the very first climber to summit Everest, George Mallory, who died on the descent.

"Why are you going to Everest?" Mallory was asked. “Because he is!”

In 1924, the Mallory-Irving team launched an assault great mountain. The last time they were seen only 150 meters from the top, they were seen through binoculars in a break in the clouds ... They did not return back, and the fate of the first Europeans who climbed so high remained a mystery for many decades.

One of the climbers in 1975 claimed that he saw someone's frozen body on the side, but did not have the strength to reach him. And only in 1999, one of the expeditions came across on the slope to the west of the main path to the accumulation of the bodies of dead climbers. Mallory was also found there, lying on his stomach, as if hugging a mountain, his head and hands were frozen into the slope.

His partner Irving was never found, although the harness on Mallory's body suggests that the couple were with each other until the very end. The rope was cut with a knife. Probably, Irving could move longer and, leaving a comrade, died somewhere down the slope.

The bodies of the dead climbers remain here forever, no one is going to evacuate them. Helicopters cannot reach such a height, and few people are capable of carrying the solid weight of a dead body ...

The unfortunate are left to lie unburied on the slopes. An icy wind gnaws at the bodies to the bone, leaving a completely eerie sight ...

As the history of recent decades has shown, thrill-seekers obsessed with records will calmly pass by not only past corpses, the real “law of the jungle” operates on the icy slope: those who are still alive are left without help.

So in 1996, a group of climbers from a Japanese university did not interrupt their climb to Everest because of Indian colleagues who were injured in a snow storm. No matter how they begged for help, the Japanese passed by. On the descent, they found those Indians already frozen to death ...

In May 2006, another amazing incident occurred: 42 climbers, including the Discovery channel film crew, passed by the freezing Briton one after another ... and no one helped him, everyone was in a hurry to accomplish their own “feat” of conquering Everest!

Briton David Sharp, climbing the mountain on his own, died due to the fact that his oxygen tank failed at an altitude of 8500 meters. Sharpe was not new to the mountains, but abruptly left without oxygen, he felt ill and fell on the rocks in the middle of the northern ridge. Some of those who passed by say that it seemed to them that he was just resting.

But the media around the world glorified the New Zealander Mark Inglis, who climbed that day to the roof of the world on carbon fiber prostheses. He was one of the few who admitted that Sharpe was indeed left to die on the slope:

“At least our expedition was the only one that did anything for him: our Sherpas gave him oxygen. On that day, about 40 climbers passed by him, and no one did anything.

David Sharp did not have much money, so he went to the summit without the help of the Sherpas, and he had no one to call for help. Probably, had he been richer, this story would have had a happier ending.

Climbing Everest.

David Sharp shouldn't have died. It would be enough for the commercial and non-commercial expeditions that went to the summit to agree to save the Englishman. If this did not happen, it was only because there was neither money nor equipment. If he had had someone left in the base camp who could order and pay for the evacuation, the Briton would have survived. But his funds were only enough to hire a cook and a tent at the base camp.

At the same time, commercial expeditions are regularly organized on Everest, allowing completely unprepared "tourists" to be noted at the top, deep old people, blind, people with severe injuries and other owners of thick wallets.

Still alive, David Sharp spent a terrible night at an altitude of 8500 meters in the company of "Mr. yellow boots" ... This is the corpse of an Indian climber in bright boots, lying on a ridge in the middle of the road to the top for many years.

A little later, guide Harry Kikstra was assigned to lead a group that included visually impaired Thomas Weber, a second client, Lincoln Hall, and five Sherpas. They left the third camp at night under good climatic conditions. Swallowing oxygen, two hours later they stumbled upon the corpse of David Sharpe, walked around him with disgust and continued on their way to the top.

Everything went according to plan, Weber climbed on his own using the railing, Lincoln Hall with two Sherpas moved forward. Suddenly, Weber's eyesight fell sharply, and just 50 meters from the summit, the guide decided to end the climb and headed back with his Sherpa and Weber. They slowly descended ... and suddenly Weber collapsed, lost his coordination, and died, falling into the hands of a guide in the middle of the ridge.

Hall, returning from the top, also radioed Kikstra that he was not feeling well, and Sherpas were sent to help him. However, Hall collapsed at a height, and within nine hours he could not be brought to his senses. It began to get dark, and the Sherpas were ordered to take care of their own salvation and descend.

Rescue operation.

Seven hours later, another guide, Dan Mazur, who was following with clients to the top, stumbled upon Hall, who, surprisingly, was alive. After he was given tea, oxygen and medicine, the climber found enough strength to talk on the radio with his group at the base.

Rescue work on Everest.

Since Lincoln Hall is one of the most famous "Himalayans" of Australia, a member of the expedition that opened one of the routes on the north side of Everest in 1984, he was not left without help. All the expeditions that were on the north side agreed among themselves and sent ten Sherpas behind him. He escaped with frostbitten hands - the minimum loss in such a situation. But David Sharp, abandoned on the trail, did not have a big name or a support group.

Transportation.

But the Dutch expedition left to die - just five meters from their tent - a climber from India, leaving him when he whispered something else and waved his hand ...

But often many of those who died are to blame themselves. A well-known tragedy that shocked many occurred in 1998. Then a married couple died - Russian Sergey Arsentiev and American Francis Distefano.

They summited on May 22, completely without the use of oxygen. Thus, Francis became the first American woman and only the second woman in history to conquer Everest without oxygen. During the descent, the couple lost each other. For the sake of this record, Francis, already on the descent, lay exhausted for two days on the southern slope of Everest. Climbers from different countries. Some offered her oxygen, which she refused at first, not wanting to spoil her record, others poured a few sips of hot tea.

Sergei Arsentiev, without waiting for Francis in the camp, went in search. The next day, five Uzbek climbers went to the top past Francis - she was still alive. The Uzbeks could help, but for this they refused to climb. Although one of their comrades has already climbed the peak, in this case the expedition is already considered successful.

On the descent we met Sergei. They said they saw Francis. He took oxygen tanks and did not return, most likely, he was blown away by a strong wind into a two-kilometer abyss.

The next day, there are three other Uzbeks, three Sherpas and two from South Africa, a total of 8 people! They approach the lying one - she has already spent the second cold night, but she is still alive! And again, everyone passes by, to the top.

British climber Ian Woodhall recalls:

“My heart sank when I realized that this man in a red and black suit was alive, but completely alone at an altitude of 8.5 km, only 350 meters from the summit. Cathy and I, without thinking, turned off the route and tried to do everything possible to save the dying woman. Thus ended our expedition, which we had been preparing for years, begging for money from sponsors ... We did not immediately manage to get to it, although it lay close. Moving at such a height is the same as running under water ...

We found her, tried to dress the woman, but her muscles atrophied, she looked like a rag doll and muttered all the time: “I am an American. Please don't leave me… We dressed her for two hours,” Woodhall continues his story. “I realized that Katie was about to freeze to death herself. We had to get out of there as soon as possible. I tried to lift Frances and carry her, but it was useless. My futile attempts to save her put Kathy at risk. We couldn't do anything.

Not a day went by that I didn't think of Frances. A year later, in 1999, Katie and I decided to try again to get to the top. We succeeded, but on the way back, we were horrified to notice the body of Francis, she lay exactly as we left her, perfectly preserved under the influence of low temperatures.
No one deserves such an ending. Cathy and I promised each other to return to Everest again to bury Frances. It took 8 years to prepare a new expedition. I wrapped Francis in an American flag and included a note from my son. We pushed her body into a cliff, away from the eyes of other climbers. Now she rests in peace. Finally I was able to do something for her."

A year later, the body of Sergei Arsenyev was also found:

“We definitely saw him - I remember the purple puffy suit. He was in a kind of bowing position, lying ... in the Mallory area at about 27150 feet (8254 m). I think it is him,” writes Jake Norton, a member of the 1999 expedition.

But in the same 1999 there was a case when people remained people. A member of the Ukrainian expedition spent a cold night almost in the same place as the American. His own people lowered him to the base camp, and then more than 40 people from other expeditions helped. As a result, he easily escaped with the loss of four fingers.

Japanese Miko Imai, veteran of Himalayan expeditions:

“In such extreme situations, everyone has the right to decide: to save or not to save a partner ... Above 8000 meters you are completely occupied with yourself and it is quite natural that you do not help another, since you have no extra strength.”

Alexander Abramov, master of sports of the USSR in mountaineering:

"You can't keep climbing between corpses and pretend it's okay!"

The question immediately arises, did this remind anyone of Varanasi - the city of the dead? Well, if you return all the same from horror to beauty, then look at the Lonely Peak of Mont Aiguille ...

Be interesting with

You probably paid attention to such information that Everest is, in the full sense of the word, the mountain of death. Storming this height, the climber knows that he has a chance of not returning. Death can be caused by a lack of oxygen, heart failure, frostbite or injury. Fatal accidents also lead to death, such as a frozen valve of an oxygen cylinder. Moreover, the path to the summit is so difficult that, as Alexander Abramov, one of the participants in the Russian Himalayan expedition, said, “at an altitude of more than 8000 meters you cannot afford the luxury of morality. Above 8000 meters you are completely occupied with yourself, and in such extreme conditions you do not have extra strength to help a friend. At the end of the post there will be a video on this topic.

The tragedy that happened on Everest in May 2006 shocked the whole world: 42 climbers passed by the slowly freezing Englishman David Sharpe, but no one helped him. One of them was the television people of the Discovery channel, who tried to interview the dying man and, having photographed him, left him alone ...

And now to readers WITH STRONG NERVES you can see what a cemetery looks like on top of the world.

On Everest, groups of climbers pass by unburied corpses scattered here and there, they are the same climbers, only they were not lucky. Some of them fell off and broke their bones, some froze or simply weakened and still froze.

What morality can at an altitude of 8000 meters above sea level? It's every man for himself, just to survive.

If you really want to prove to yourself that you are mortal, then you should try to visit Everest.

Most likely, all these people who remained lying there thought that this was not about them. And now they are like a reminder that not everything is in the hands of man.

No one keeps statistics of defectors there, because they climb mostly as savages and in small groups of three to five people. And the price of such an ascent is from $25t to $60t. Sometimes they pay extra with their lives if they saved on little things. So, about 150 people remained on eternal guard, and maybe 200. And many who have been there say that they feel the gaze of a black climber resting on their backs, because there are eight openly lying bodies right on the northern route. Among them are two Russians. From the south is about ten. But climbers are already afraid to deviate from the paved path, they may not get out of there, and no one will climb to save them.

Terrible tales circulate among climbers who have visited that peak, because it does not forgive mistakes and human indifference. In 1996, a group of climbers from the Japanese University of Fukuoka climbed Mount Everest. Very close to their route were three distressed climbers from India - exhausted, icy people asked for help, they survived a high-altitude storm. The Japanese passed by. When the Japanese group descended, there was already no one to save, the Indians froze.

It is believed that Mallory was the first to conquer the summit and died already on the descent. In 1924, Mallory and his partner Irving began their ascent. They were last seen through binoculars in a break in the clouds just 150 meters from the summit. Then the clouds converged and the climbers disappeared.

They did not return back, only in 1999, at an altitude of 8290 m, the next conquerors of the summit came across many bodies that had died over the past 5-10 years. Mallory was found among them. He was lying on his stomach, as if trying to hug the mountain, his head and hands frozen into the slope.

Irving's partner was never found, although the harness on Mallory's body suggests that the couple were with each other until the very end. The rope was cut with a knife, and perhaps Irving could move and, leaving a friend, died somewhere down the slope.

Wind and snow do their job, those places on the body that are not covered by clothes are gnawed to the bone by the snow wind, and the older the corpse, the less flesh remains on it. No one is going to evacuate the dead climbers, the helicopter cannot rise to such a height, and there are no altruists to carry a carcass of 50 to 100 kilograms. So the unburied climbers lie on the slopes.

Well, not all climbers are such egoists, they still save and do not leave their own in trouble. Only many who died are to blame themselves.

For the sake of the personal record of an oxygen-free ascent, the American Francis Arsentieva, already on the descent, lay exhausted for two days on the southern slope of Everest. Climbers from different countries passed by a frozen, but still alive woman. Some offered her oxygen (which she refused at first, not wanting to spoil her record), others poured a few sips of hot tea, there was even a married couple who tried to gather people to drag her to the camp, but they soon left, as put their own lives at risk.

The husband of an American, Russian climber Sergei Arsentiev, with whom they got lost on the descent, did not wait for her in the camp, and went in search of her, during which he also died.

In the spring of 2006, eleven people died on Everest - not news, it would seem, if one of them, Briton David Sharp, was not left in agony by a group of about 40 climbers passing by. Sharp was not a rich man and climbed without guides and Sherpas. The drama lies in the fact that if he had enough money, his salvation would be possible. He would still be alive today.

Every spring, on the slopes of Everest, both on the Nepalese and Tibetan sides, countless tents grow up in which the same dream is cherished - to climb to the roof of the world. Perhaps because of the motley variety of tents resembling giant tents, or because anomalous phenomena have been occurring on this mountain for some time, the scene was dubbed the “Circus on Everest”.

Society looked with wise calmness at this house of clowns as a place of entertainment, a little magical, a little absurd, but harmless. Everest has become an arena for circus performances, ridiculous and funny things happen here: children come to hunt for early records, old people climb without help, eccentric millionaires appear who have not seen cats even in a photograph, helicopters land on the top ... The list is endless and has nothing to do with mountaineering, but there is much in common with money, which, if not moving mountains, makes them lower. However, in the spring of 2006, the "circus" turned into a theater of horror, erasing forever the image of innocence that was usually associated with a pilgrimage to the roof of the world.

In the spring of 2006, on Everest, about forty climbers left the Englishman David Sharpe alone to die in the middle of the northern slope; faced with a choice, to help or continue climbing to the top, they chose the second, since reaching the highest peak in the world meant for them to accomplish a feat.
On the very day that David Sharp was dying surrounded by this pretty company and in utter contempt, the media around the world sang the praises of Mark Inglis, the New Zealand guide who, lacking legs to be amputated after an occupational injury, climbed to the top of Everest on prosthetics made of hydrocarbon artificial fiber with cats attached to them.

The news, presented by the media as a super deed, as proof that dreams can change reality, hid tons of garbage and dirt, so that Inglis himself began to say: no one helped the British David Sharp in his suffering. The American web page mounteverest.net picked up the news and began to pull the string. At the end of it is a story of human degradation, which is difficult to understand, a horror that would have been hidden if it were not for the media that undertook to investigate what happened.
David Sharp, who climbed the mountain on his own, participating in an ascent organized by Asia Trekking, died when his oxygen tank failed at an altitude of 8500 meters. It happened on May 16th. Sharpe was no stranger to the mountains. At the age of 34, he already climbed the eight-thousander Cho Oyu, passing the most difficult sections without using the railing, which may not be a heroic deed, but at least shows his character. Suddenly left without oxygen, Sharp immediately felt ill and immediately collapsed on the rocks at an altitude of 8500 meters in the middle of the northern ridge. Some of those who preceded him claim that they thought he was resting. Several Sherpas inquired about his condition, asking who he was and with whom he traveled. He replied: "My name is David Sharp, I'm here with Asia Trekking and I just want to sleep."

6

North ridge of Everest.

New Zealander Mark Inglis, a double amputee, stepped his hydrocarbon prostheses over David Sharp's body to reach the summit; he was one of the few who admitted that Sharpe had indeed been left for dead. “At least our expedition was the only one that did anything for him: our Sherpas gave him oxygen. On that day, about 40 climbers passed by him, and no one did anything,” he said.

7

Climbing Everest.

The first to be alarmed by Sharpe's death was the Brazilian Vitor Negrete, who, in addition, said that he had been robbed in a high-mountain camp. Vitor could not provide any more details, because he died two days later. Negrete made his way to the summit from the northern ridge without the aid of artificial oxygen, but during the descent began to feel unwell and radioed for help from his Sherpa, who helped him get to Camp No. 3. He died in his tent, possibly due to swelling caused by being at altitude.
Contrary to popular belief, most people die on Everest during good weather, not when the mountain is covered in clouds. A cloudless sky inspires anyone, regardless of his technical equipment and physical capabilities, and this is where the edema and typical collapses caused by altitude lie in wait for him. This spring, the roof of the world knew a period of good weather, lasting for two weeks without wind and clouds, enough to break the record of ascents at this very time of the year: 500.

8

Camp after the storm.

Under worse conditions, many would not rise and would not die ...
David Sharpe was still alive after a terrible night at 8500 meters. During this time, he had the phantasmagorical company of "Mr. Yellow Boots", the corpse of an Indian climber, dressed in old yellow plastic Koflach boots, lying there for years, lying on a ridge in the middle of the road and still in a fetal position.

9

The grotto where David Sharpe died. For ethical reasons, the body is painted white.

David Sharp shouldn't have died. It would be enough for the commercial and non-commercial expeditions that went to the summit to agree to save the Englishman. If this did not happen, it was only because there was no money, no equipment, there was no one in the base camp who could offer the Sherpas doing such work a good amount of dollars in exchange for a life. And, since there was no economic incentive, they resorted to a false elementary expression: “you need to be independent at the height.” If this principle were true, old people, the blind, people with various amputated limbs, completely ignorant, sick and other representatives of the fauna that meet at the foot of the "icon" of the Himalayas, knowing full well that something that cannot make their competence and experience, their thick checkbook will allow.
Three days after David Sharp's death, Peace Project leader Jamie McGuinness and ten of his Sherpas rescued one of his clients from a tailspin shortly after reaching the summit. It took 36 hours, but he was evacuated from the summit on a makeshift stretcher, carrying him to the base camp. Can the dying person be saved or not? Of course, he paid a lot, and it saved his life. David Sharp only paid for having a cook and a tent at the base camp.

Rescue work on Everest.

A few days later, two members of the same expedition from Castile-La Mancha were enough to evacuate one half-dead Canadian named Vince from the North Col (at an altitude of 7000 meters), under the indifferent looks of many of those who passed there.

Transportation.

A little later there was one episode that will finally resolve the debate about whether or not to help a dying man on Everest. The tour guide Harry Kikstra was assigned to lead a group in which Thomas Weber, who had vision problems due to the removal of a brain tumor in the past, appeared among his clients. On the day of the summit of Kikstra, Weber, five Sherpas and a second client, Lincoln Hall, set out together from Camp Three at night under good weather conditions.
Abundantly swallowing oxygen, a little more than two hours later they stumbled upon the corpse of David Sharp, with disgust walked around him and continued on to the top. Despite the vision problems that height should have exacerbated, Weber climbed on his own using a railing. Everything happened as planned. Lincoln Hall with his two Sherpas moved forward, but at this time Weber's eyesight was seriously impaired. At 50 meters from the summit, Kikstra decided to finish the ascent and headed back with his Sherpa and Weber. Little by little, the group began to descend from the third step, then from the second ... until suddenly Weber, who seemed exhausted and uncoordinated, threw a panicked look at Kikstra and dumbfounded him: "I'm dying." And he died, falling into his arms in the middle of the ridge. Nobody could revive him.
Moreover, Lincoln Hall, returning from the top, began to feel bad. Warned by radio, Kikstra, still in a state of shock from Weber's death, sent one of his Sherpas to meet Hall, but the latter collapsed at 8700 meters and, despite the help of the Sherpas, who had been trying to revive him for nine hours, could not rise. At seven o'clock they reported that he was dead. The expedition leaders advised the Sherpas, worried about the onset of darkness, to leave Lincoln Hall and save their lives, which they did.

12

Everest slopes.

That same morning, seven hours later, guide Dan Mazur, who was following the road to the summit with clients, stumbled upon Hall, who, surprisingly, was alive. After being given tea, oxygen, and medicine, Hall was able to talk on the radio himself with his group at the base. Immediately, all the expeditions that were on the north side agreed among themselves and sent a detachment of ten Sherpas to help him. Together they removed him from the crest and brought him back to life.

13

Frostbite.
He got frostbite on his hands - the minimum loss in this situation. The same should have been done with David Sharp, but unlike Hall (one of the most famous Himalayans from Australia, a member of the expedition that opened one of the paths on the north side of Everest in 1984), the Englishman did not have famous name and support groups.

Sharpe's case is not news, no matter how scandalous it may seem. The Dutch expedition left one Indian climber to die on the South Col, leaving him only five meters from his tent, leaving him when he whispered something else and waved his hand.

A well-known tragedy that shocked many occurred in May 1998. Then a married couple died - Sergey Arsentiev and Francis Distefano.

14

Sergey Arsentiev and Francis Distefano-Arsentiev, having spent three nights (!) at 8,200 m, climbed and reached the summit on 05/22/1998 at 18:15. The ascent was made without the use of oxygen. Thus, Francis became the first American woman and only the second woman in history to climb without oxygen.
During the descent, the couple lost each other. He went down to the camp. She is not.
The next day, five Uzbek climbers went to the top past Francis - she was still alive. The Uzbeks could help, but for this they refused to climb. Although one of their comrades has already ascended, in this case the expedition is already considered successful.
On the descent we met Sergei. They said they saw Francis. He took oxygen tanks and went. But he disappeared. Probably blown away by a strong wind into a two-kilometer abyss.
The next day there are three other Uzbeks, three Sherpas and two from South Africa - 8 people! They approach her - she has already spent the second cold night, but she is still alive! Again, everyone passes by - to the top.
“My heart sank when I realized that this man in a red and black suit was alive, but completely alone at an altitude of 8.5 km, just 350 meters from the summit,” recalls the British climber. “Kathy and I, without thinking, turned off the route and tried to do everything possible to save the dying woman. Thus ended our expedition, which we had been preparing for years, begging for money from sponsors ... We did not immediately manage to get to it, although it lay close. Moving at such a height is the same as running under water ...
When we found her, we tried to dress the woman, but her muscles atrophied, she looked like a rag doll and muttered all the time: “I am an American. Please, do not leave me"…
We dressed her for two hours. My concentration was lost due to a bone-piercing rattling sound that broke the ominous silence, Woodhall continues his story. “I realized that Katie was about to freeze to death herself. We had to get out of there as soon as possible. I tried to lift Frances and carry her, but it was useless. My futile attempts to save her put Kathy at risk. We couldn't do anything."
Not a day went by that I didn't think about Frances. A year later, in 1999, Katie and I decided to try again to get to the top. We succeeded, but on the way back, we were horrified to notice the body of Francis, she lay exactly as we left her, perfectly preserved under the influence of low temperatures.

Nobody deserves such an end. Cathy and I promised each other to return to Everest again to bury Frances. It took 8 years to prepare a new expedition. I wrapped Francis in an American flag and included a note from my son. We pushed her body into a cliff, away from the eyes of other climbers. Now she rests in peace. Finally, I was able to do something for her." Ian Woodhall.
A year later, the body of Sergei Arseniev was found: “I apologize for the delay with the photographs of Sergei. We definitely saw him - I remember the purple puffy suit. He was in a kind of bow position, lying just behind Jochenovsky (Jochen Hemmleb - Expedition Historian - S.K.) "implicit rib" in the Mallory area at about 27150 feet (8254 m). I think this is him. Jake Norton, member of the 1999 expedition.
But in the same year there was a case when people remained people. On the Ukrainian expedition, the guy spent almost the same place as the American, a cold night. His own people lowered him to the base camp, and then more than 40 people from other expeditions helped. He got off lightly - four fingers were removed.
“In such extreme situations, everyone has the right to decide: to save or not to save a partner ... Above 8000 meters you are completely occupied with yourself and it is quite natural that you do not help another, since you have no extra strength.” Miko Imai.

On Everest, the Sherpas act like excellent supporting actors in a film made to celebrate unpaid actors who silently perform their part.

18

Sherpas at work.

But the Sherpas, who provide their services for money, are the main ones in this business. Without them, there are neither fixed ropes, nor many ascents, nor, of course, salvation. And in order for them to help, they need to be paid money: Sherpas have been taught to sell for money, and they use the tariff under any circumstances that occur. Just like a poor climber who is unable to pay, a Sherpa can find himself in a difficult situation, so for the same reason he is cannon fodder.

19

The situation of the Sherpas is very difficult, because they take the risk of organizing a “spectacle” in the first place, so that even the least qualified can snatch a piece of what they paid for.

20

Frostbitten Sherp.

“The corpses on the route are a good example and a reminder to be more careful on the mountain. But every year there are more and more climbers, and according to the statistics of corpses, it will increase every year. What is unacceptable in normal life is regarded as the norm at high altitudes.” Alexander Abramov, Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering.

"You can't keep climbing between corpses and pretending it's okay." Alexander Abramov.

"Why are you going to Everest?" asked George Mallory.
"Because he is!"

Mallory was the first to conquer the summit and died already on the descent. In 1924, the Mallory-Irving team launched an assault. They were last seen through binoculars in a break in the clouds just 150 meters from the summit. Then the clouds converged and the climbers disappeared.
The mystery of their disappearance, the first Europeans who remained on Sagarmatha, worried many. But it took many years to find out what happened to the climber.
In 1975, one of the conquerors assured that he saw some body away from the main path, but did not approach, so as not to lose strength. It took another twenty years for in 1999, when traversing the slope from the 6th high-altitude camp (8290 m) to the west, the expedition stumbled upon many bodies that had died over the past 5-10 years. Mallory was found among them. He was lying on his stomach, sprawled, as if hugging a mountain, his head and hands were frozen into the slope.

“Turned over - eyes closed. This means that he did not die suddenly: when they break, for many they remain open. They didn’t lower it - they buried it there. ”

Irving was never found, although the harness on Mallory's body suggests that the couple were with each other until the very end. The rope was cut with a knife and perhaps Irving could move around and left his comrade, died somewhere down the slope.

Astrakhan prostitutes will be happy to take your call and make offers at any time of the day or night.