1.1. Precautionary measures

Security measures in relation to any explosive come down, in essence, to the general rules for the rationalization of work. Let's say smokeless powder is considered a stable substance, but if you put it in a furnace, it will explode. Trinitrotoluene can be set on fire so that it burns, but does not explode, at least for most of this period, while black powder is ignited by the slightest spark. Recommendation: When you get acquainted with precautions, try to delve deeper into their essence, without inventing anything superfluous.
*Safety precautions for storage of explosives*: 1) The most important thing in placing explosives is the correct choice of storage location. It should be close enough for you to watch, but not so close as to pose a danger to you and your family. All doors in warehouses or cellars for the storage of explosives must be equipped with reliable locking devices.
2) Do not store mechanical type primers, electric primers, or other initiating devices in the same container or, much less, in the same warehouse as any other form of high explosive or slow burning explosive.
3) Do not store wicks or wick refills in a damp or fumes-prone area or near flammable substances such as oils, gasoline or gasoline, cleaning solvents or paints. Wicks should also be located away from radiators, steam lines, stoves, or any other heat source, as non-electric wicks of any type, due to their properties, can cause fire and other negative consequences.
4) Metals should be stored as far away from explosives as possible and, say, metal tools should not be stored in the same storage room with explosives.
5) In no case should an open flame or other types of fire, including the ignition of a cigarette, be allowed in a room with explosives.
6) The real danger in the storage of explosives is the possibility of spontaneous combustion. Therefore, do not allow leaves, grass, brushwood or other waste to be picked up or accidentally accumulated in the explosive storage area.
7) Do not unload weapons near an explosives store. Do not shoot in a cellar containing such items. Shooting is carried out at a safe distance from explosives.
8) Different types of explosives require appropriate storage conditions, including temperature and other controllable factors. Operations with explosive compounds, in particular, in the place of their storage, can only be carried out by a person who has thoroughly studied all the properties and features of these substances.
9) Always use common sense in these matters and allow only competent and qualified people to handle explosives.
*Explosives Handling Precautions*: 1) Any vehicle used for the transport of explosives must be in good working condition and equipped with a solid and strong wooden or non-sparking metal bottom and sides and ends high enough to allow prevent accidental release of explosives from the vehicle. The load placed in the open body of the truck must be covered from above with a waterproof and fire-resistant tarpaulin. The wiring must be well insulated throughout to eliminate the possibility of a short circuit, and the fire kit on the vehicle must include at least two fire extinguishers.
2) Never allow metals of any kind, except non-sparking, to be directly in the area of ​​explosives and come into contact with the lining or housing of these chemicals. Metals, flammable substances or highly corrosive materials must not be transported together with explosives.
3) It is strictly forbidden to smoke near a container with any type of explosive, regardless of the degree of its stability.
4) Do not allow unauthorized persons to approach explosives for two reasons, firstly, because they, due to ignorance of the contents of the containers, may accidentally cause an explosion of these substances and, secondly, in view of the possibility that bystanders may be hidden agents of the enemy.
5) Loading or unloading explosives is done with the utmost care. When carrying out any operations with explosives of any volume and characteristics, haste is completely excluded. Count your time and think about your every step.
6) If you have to transport high explosives and ignition caps in the same vehicle, ensure that these vehicles are completely separated.
*Precautions for Using Explosives*: 1) Never use a metal crowbar or wedge when opening an explosive box. You will need a wooden wedge or a non-metal tool.
2) Do not smoke or allow others to smoke. Do not bring open flames or any other source of heat or fire near the explosives area.
3) Do not place explosives where they may be exposed to flame, excessive heat, sparks or impact.
4) Lower the lid or close the top of the box after using explosives.
5) Do not carry the explosive in your pocket or even closer to your body for any length of time. Even when conducting a sabotage action, it is better to carry explosives in a separate container.
6) Do not assemble fuses or stepped primers in the vicinity of any other explosives, blasting or slow burning.
7) Primers, despite the fact that they perform a purely auxiliary function, carry a fairly powerful charge and must be treated with appropriate caution.
8) Only the wick can be inserted into the ignition primer without any other inclusions. To ensure the normal functional state and proper sensitivity of the ignition primers, they must be handled with due attention.
9) Never experiment with firing primers by trying to disassemble them by applying shock, making arbitrary changes to the design, or even removing their contents. Do not try to remove the wire from the electric primer.
10) During the period of care and handling of explosives, only specially designated persons are near them. All unauthorized and incompetent persons must leave this area immediately. These persons, of course, also include children and animals.
11) Do not handle explosives and move away from the explosive storage area when a thunderstorm is approaching. Take measures to prevent access of any person to this area and take appropriate security measures.
12) Before practical use, check all equipment and never use demolition equipment with certain damage or impaired functionality.
13) Never try on your own to restore the original, normal, state of one or another explosive or ignition material, wetted with water.
*Precautions when drilling holes and drilling holes*: 1) Carefully inspect the place where the drilling operation is planned, make sure that there is no explosive charge in this area. It is impossible, of course, to make holes in the explosive charge itself.
2) Spare or surplus explosives must not be placed near the area where the hole is being drilled.
3) During the drilling process, based on the principle of friction, heat is generated. Never charge a hole without first measuring the temperature. Inspection of the hole is also necessary in order to verify the presence or absence of any elements of the ignition material. An extremely risky situation occurs at temperatures above 150°F.
4) In the practice of sabotage operations, the so-called method of explosive expansion of the hole is used, using a small charge for this purpose and followed by laying a much larger main explosive charge. At the same time, proper security measures are provided. Make sure there are no other charges planted nearby.
5) It is impossible to bring explosive into the hole with significant effort. Recheck the condition of your hole and before re-introducing the charge, clean the hole of anything that interferes with the laying of the charge.
6) Never try to insert a mechanical or electric ignition primer into a stick of dynamite using the forced indentation method. Use a hole previously made with a special punch for this purpose.
7) Do not make arbitrary changes of any kind to the fuse.
8) Calculate the amount of explosives you need, and put a strictly defined amount of these substances. You can not exceed the established indicators.
*Charge Sealing Precautions*:
(For its compaction, certain ballast means are used, mainly sandbags, placed close to the explosives in order to concentrate the force of the explosion in certain direction.) 1) The sealing operation requires the use of strictly consistent and careful methods and excludes enhanced mechanical effects.
2) Only wooden or some other non-metallic, non-sparking means should be used as spacers or retractors.
3) To seal the area of ​​the hole, shortly after it has been drilled, use clay, sand, mud, or some other non-combustible material.
4) When sealing the area, use due care not to damage or completely break the wick or wire of the electric primer.
5) The compaction method should be applied as widely as possible, as it allows to reduce the consumption of the required explosives.
*Precautions for Electrical Detonation of Explosives*: 1) Do not unwind the wires of the electrical primer and do not use it during a thunderstorm, dust storm, or any other source of static electricity.
2) Take special care when using electric ignition equipment near radio transmitting equipment.
3) Keep your ignition circuit in a state of complete isolation from any conductors, except for those initiating elements that you intend to use. This means the strictest isolation against ground, bare wire, rails, pipes, or any power supply wire that causes interference or leakage.
4) All cables, wires or other electrical accessories are stored separately from the electric primers and connected to the extent necessary only for the duration of the demolition operation and for the implementation of the explosion.
5) Be very careful about the quantity of firing primers used (more than one). Never use more than one type of primer in the same operation.
6) Be sure to use exactly the calculated current, according to the manufacturer's specifications, to fire the electric primers. Never underestimate it.
7) Make sure that all the ends of the wires connected to the capsules are free and cleaned to a shine.
8) Keep the electrical primer wires or lead wires for direct connection in good condition until commissioning.
*Wick Precautions*: 1) Handle the wick with due care. Do not damage the surface shell. In cold weather, warm the wick slightly before use. Avoid cracking the outer waterproofing coating.
2) Never use a short wick. Typically, a wick over two feet long is used. Accurately calculate how fast the pilot fire spreads through the fuse and how long it takes you to get to safety.
3) When connecting the wick to the primer, trim it about one inch to ensure proper dryness. Cut the wick strictly perpendicular with a clean blade of a new razor. When the wick is in place, do not twist or pull it or otherwise create frictional forces.
4) After inserting the wick, it is necessary to fix the wick relative to the ignition capsule. This technique consists in fixing a non-electric ignition primer on the wick by bending the edges of the primer close to the wick. This operation is performed only with a special tool such as crimping tongs or pliers. Although conventional wire cutters are similar to this tool, the latter cannot be used as a substitute for crimping pliers or pliers. When performing the fixation technique, accurately calculate each hand movement, because if you flatten not so much the edges of the primer as the explosive itself inside the primer, then there is a very high probability that you will injure your hands due to its explosion.
5) Do not light the fuse until you are absolutely certain that the sparks emanating from it will not ignite the explosive before the fuse has completely burned out.
*Precautions for Lighting Explosives*: 1) When lighting the fuse, no foreign charge must be in your hands.
2) Before the explosion, ensure that the surrounding area is properly visible and the appropriate signal can be given in advance, in the interests of safety.
3) Do not return to the explosion site until the smoke clears.
4) Do not rush to find out the cause of the misfire. Wait at least one hour to make sure (if using the wiring diagram) that the appropriate contacts are disconnected.
5) Never drill out a misfire.
6) Never leave explosives unattended.
7) Do not leave explosives accessories, packaging material or cartridge cases where they can be seen by children or animals.

1.2. Explosive devices and mines

This is an incendiary bomb that causes an object to ignite. "Molotov cocktail" is a glass bottle (for example, beer, wine or mineral water) filled two-thirds with gasoline and one-third with oil. The wick is made from old pieces of cloth soaked in gasoline and then inserted into the neck of the bottle. The bottle is stoppered, and in this position, with the wick lit, it is thrown towards the object, which it ignites by breaking on its hard surfaces. The enemy is unable to extinguish this flame with water.
When manufacturing and igniting, be careful, make sure that the cork tightly closes the bottle and does not allow gasoline vapors to form, which can lead to an early explosion!

1.2.2. Household Bomb

We bring to your attention an article received from one of the email stations (Anarhia BBS):

"I, an experienced chemist, was forced to take up the pen by a bunch of articles for home-grown terrorists, which described how to quickly prepare powerful explosives at home. At the same time, half of them advised "Go to the nearest gun store and buy 1- 2 kg. gunpowder" (who will sell you such a quantity, and gunpowder is by and large not an explosive at all) or "pour the required amount of tol out of the projectile by heating" (no comment). Others advise getting "strong nitric and sulfuric acid, glycerin and all mix it up" (very strong acids are needed for this, and it turns out to be a very dangerous explosive). Further, the manuals retell the manual for a pyrotechnical demolitionist: how to blow up something. undermining the cable, two heavy checkers are placed from different sides. "Where the reader can get plastite or thick checkers is not specified. In addition, keep in mind that they are looking for a terrorist in the footsteps and the fewer suspicious contacts, the better.
In general, all recipes can be divided into several subtypes: 1. Too weak explosions. All mixtures are based on available inorganic oxidizing agents: potassium permanganate (most often mixed with metal powders), saltpeter (gunpowder), potassium perchlorate (plus sulfur, coal, sugar). All gas-air (propane / acetylene + air / oxygen) and steam-air (gasoline / ether + air / oxygen) mixtures can also be attributed there.
2. Recipes with hard-to-find materials. All these picrates, azides are well described, but where can I get them? This is especially true of fuming nitric acid, which is present in most recipes.
3. This also includes difficult-to-implement technologies. But you got nitric acid of the required concentration, well, they began to nitrate. You will not get 100% trinitrotoluene - wrong temperatures and pressures. Picric acid can be obtained in the laboratory, but in the kitchen, at best, a yellow resin will turn out. The same applies to almost all nitro compounds, except, perhaps, nitroglycerin, but its instability, especially dirty, is a byword.
4. Instability. Immediately forget about acetylinides, salts of explosive acid, nitrogen iodide, etc. - it will explode before you can bring IT to its destination.
5. Hard-to-detonate mixtures. Yes, even pure ammonium nitrate can be detonated, but the amount of tol required for this is enough for any sabotage and without the notorious nitrate, unless, of course, you are going to blow up the Eiffel Tower.
In general, pay less attention to the emotional side of the recipes ("Hey dudes, I have a recipe for a cool BOOM! With which you can even blow Fort Knox!" And more to the actual description of the whole process.
Therefore, I tried to give a proven recipe for making explosives from available substances, in a fairly safe and cheap, fast and reliable way. I apologize for the rather large confusion of the article, since it is rather difficult to briefly and plain language describe this process.
The whole story is divided into several parts: 1. Preparation of the initiating explosive (BB) 2. Production of fuses (detonators).
3. Preparation of the main blasting explosive.
4. Making the actual bomb.

1. Preparation of initiating explosive (BB)

1.1. A collection of substances.
Of all the variety of explosives, I will describe the preparation of acetone diperoxide, (DA) as the cheapest, fastest and fairly safe.
To prepare it, three components are needed: acetone, sulfuric acid and hydrogen peroxide.
Acetone: bought at the hardware store, used as a thinner for nitro paints and to remove stains. Transparent liquid of a specific smell, combustible, soluble in water.
Sulfuric acid: you can get it in places where the electrolyte in car batteries is changed - in various auto repair shops, sometimes in a hardware store. Clear or slightly cloudy heavy liquid (due to impurities). For our purposes, we need concentrated acid (90-96%), but if you use hydroperite, 50% can be dispensed with.
Hydrogen peroxide - in hairdressers (called "perhydrol" is used to bleach hair) or in a pharmacy (used to disinfect wounds). Diluted to 5% is not suitable, a concentration of at least 15% is needed (and fresh). Often pharmacies sell "hydroperite" - in the form of packs of 10 white tablets - this is the same hydrogen peroxide bound with thiourea.

1.2. Checking the purity of starting materials.
After purchasing the necessary substances (I don’t specifically specify the quantity, buy at least for now, until after one or two experiments you understand how much you really need), they must be checked for purity. Mix a teaspoon of acid with a hydroperite tablet (with an equal amount of hydrogen peroxide) and drop acetone into the same. If a crack is immediately heard and the mixture turns yellow, some of the substances are not clean enough (most often acid). If nothing like this happens, leave the mixture for a few hours. A white precipitate should form. If not, the starting materials are not pure enough or not concentrated enough.

1.3. Manufacturing YES.
1.3.1. We will describe two methods: the first is reliable and safe, but requires at least a day. The second is fast (you can meet it in half an hour), but more dangerous and less reliable. First way:
AT concentrated acid hydroperite or hydrogen peroxide gradually dissolves. Be careful - the mixture is heated! Hydroperite dissolves until the solution is saturated, and hydrogen peroxide is added in a ratio of 1: 1. After the mixture cools down, acetone is added to it in a ratio of mixture: acetone = 1: 1. The resulting three-component mixture is left in a dark cool place for 10-12 hours. After this time, an abundant white precipitate should fall out. We filter the solution through a cotton cloth (we need a precipitate). After filtering, we twist the sediment in a rag and rinse it under running water until completely neutral (taste the sediment from time to time (not poisonous) it should not be sour). Remember - this is an important point - a poorly washed substance will be unstable. Next, the precipitate is dried at room temperature until completely dry (cut a bunch of the substance with a knife - the grains should not stick to the surface of the knife). The resulting DA is a white finely dispersed substance similar to flour. An approximate yield of 20-30% by weight of the original acetone can be considered successful, but may be less.

1.3.2. The second way.
We dissolve hydroperite in concentrated acid (liquid peroxide is not suitable). The mixture is poured into a thin-walled glass beaker or an enameled metal pan and placed on snow (ice) or under a stream of cold water. Add acetone very slowly and little by little. Attention! Make sure that the mixture never gets too hot. A sign of a good course of the reaction is the immediate precipitation. Acetone is poured in until the reaction is going on (smell, if the reaction is over, you will smell the acetone). After the end of the reaction, the mixture is slowly poured into cold water. Then proceed with the sediment as in paragraph 1.3.1.

1.4. VV test.
Sprinkle BB in a heap of 1/2 teaspoon or less and light. Should flare up with a faint pop. If the explosive does not flash, but burns, if something remains after the flash, the mixture is dirty (wet, degraded from long storage) and is not suitable for further use.
The resulting explosive can be stored for a short time (from a week to a month) in a cold dark place, however, during storage, the destruction of the substance is inevitable. If, after storage, the explosive was caked, there was a smell of vinegar, droplets of a yellowish liquid, it can be used after washing and drying. Naturally, take safety measures when storing it, since sparks, fire, blows to explosives can cause it to detonate.
In principle, the resulting explosive can already be used. But if you want to achieve more explosive power and a longer shelf life, explosives must be plasticized.

1.5.1. Plasticization VV.
There are a couple of good plasticizing methods for this explosive: the first is safer, but the resulting explosive is worse stored and explodes weaker, and the second, more dangerous, but the result is better. First way:
Dissolve in acetone a piece of celluloid or nitrocellulose glue, or in general any glue or plastic that will dissolve in it in an amount of 1-5% by weight. Pour the explosive into the resulting solution to a creamy state, place in a paper form and dry. While the mixture is wet, make a recess for the detonator along the axis of the mold (for example, with a pencil). You should end up with a loosely bound lump of white stuff that looks like Styrofoam. Attention! After making the mold, in no case hit it, pick it, etc., as all this can cause detonation.

1.4.2. The second way.
YES melts at 90 degrees Celsius and then solidifies. Pour a small portion of BB (10-20 g) into an enameled metal saucepan and place it in the saucepan larger size filled with water ("water bath") and bring the water to a boil. As the inner pot heats up, the explosive should melt. Pour the melt into a paper mold. For the detonator, fix a hollow paper cylinder in the form. Repeat the above steps with a new batch until the paper form is full. The danger here is that the explosive melt is more dangerous in terms of detonation, so it is advised to work with small portions.

2.1. Making a detonator (fuse).

2.1.1. Chemical fires.
A good detonator is actually the most difficult to make at home. 90% of the failure of bombs and self-explosion is connected precisely with the detonator. So pay close attention to this. Unfortunately, making good detonators is a separate topic and it is beyond the scope of this article. Note, however, that we have an explosive that detonates from a simple fire (unlike, for example, all industrial high explosives that require a detonator based on an initiating explosive), so the required detonator is not a detonator in the true sense of the word. You just need to make a device that, after a certain period of time, should set fire to explosives. It can be a long piece of paper, a self-burning cigarette, etc.
For unobtrusive explosions without slowing down, you can make a kind of fickford cord. Prepare a saturated solution of potassium or sodium nitrate. (Ammonia is not good, but if there is nothing else besides it, dissolve it in half to caustic (calcined) soda and boil for 3-5 hours until the smell of ammonia disappears completely. Get again a solution of sodium nitrate). Soak a piece of newspaper in it and dry it. Using a hot iron, roll it into a tight cord with a diameter of 3-5 mm. Fasten the resulting tourniquet with threads and coat with varnish or any non-flammable glue on top. The resulting cord is far from the reliability and uniformity of burning to fickford, but it also burns well even in water.
For a pressure explosion, you can use this method: open the tip of the cord described above and fill it with potassium permanganate ("potassium permanganate"). Take any vial of medicine (as small as possible), break its tip and pour out the medicine. After washing the ampoule, pour concentrated sulfuric acid into it and seal the tip with some kind of glue that gives a solid glue line (better - "epoxy"). Insert the ampoule into the end of the cord. Now, if the ampoule is crushed, the cord will light up. The deceleration of the explosion is equal to the length of the cord.

2.1.2. Other fires.
Of course, all kinds of chemical fuses are less reliable than mechanical and electrical ones, but they have the advantage that they leave no traces after the explosion.
The simplest electric fuse uses a thin wire to close an electrical circuit. Attach a thin copper wire (so thin that it can be easily torn by hand, such as is used in various small transformers) between two opposite-phase (opposite-pole) conductors and complete the circuit. If the voltage in the circuit is 110 volts or more, with a good current strength (as in a home circuit), the wire will burn out instantly. A more autonomous fuse can be made from a flashlight bulb. Break the light bulb so as not to damage the coil. Coat the spiral with combustible glue - the fuse is ready! A voltage of 1.5 V (“finger-type” battery) is enough for the spiral to flare up in air and set fire to the coating.
In general, the number of fuse options is not limited. I advise you to first experiment for a long time before inserting a fuse into a real bomb.

2.2. Making a detonating bomb.
The combination of a plasticized substance in the form (or just compacted explosive powder) with a detonator is already a bomb. The paper form mentioned in the previous paragraph can be any, depending on the purpose of the explosion. The easiest way is to make a cylinder with a diameter of 2-4 cm and a length of 5-10 cm. The explosion power of such a checker is not inferior to the power of an explosion of TNT of the same weight. In principle, such a checker can be used for practical purposes. For all the expensive process of obtaining it, such a bomb has one advantage: it is not detected by specially trained dogs. The explanation for this is simple: almost all industrial explosives are made on the basis of nitro compounds (tol, tetryl, picric acid, plastite, ammonal, nitroglycerin, heating element cords, etc.). It is these smells that dogs are trained for. YES, it smells like acetone, vinegar and is easily disguised without attracting the dog's attention. The ammonal described later will attract the attention of the dog, like gunpowder, saltpeter, etc. In addition, there is a minimum amount of ammonal that can detonate the AU - several kilograms. Since ammonal is not much inferior in power to tol, several kilograms is a lot even for a car or diesel locomotive and can only be used for fairly large sabotage.

3. Production of the main explosive.

Of course, YES - well, but it is expensive and its production is quite a long procedure. Fortunately, there are much simpler explosives that require initiation to explode. They are based on ammonium nitrate (AS).
Theoretically, it is possible to detonate a clean AC. In practice this rarely happens. The simplest mixture, more easily detonating - AC + diesel fuel, you can try if you have enough YES. It is better to spend more time and make ammonal. This requires three components:
AS. Look for it in household stores, as it is the most popular fertilizer. White powder or more often granules. When dissolved in water, the temperature of the solution is lowered, when mixed in a solution with alkali (soda, soap, washing powder) and heated, the smell of ammonia is felt.
Charcoal. If you do not have it on hand, it is easy to get it by cleaning unburned firebrands from a fire.
aluminum powder. Mixed with drying oil, it is used for painting poles, roofs, etc. Look for it in household stores and at construction sites.
All substances can be of any purity, but still, the starting substances are needed, and not their mixtures with others (such as a mixture of fertilizers that contain AS or aluminum powder already mixed with drying oil).

The composition of ammonal (by weight):
AC - 75%
Coal 20%
Aluminum powder 5%

However, the composition can vary greatly in one direction or another.
Thoroughly dry the starting materials (especially AS, which should even be ignited to remove complex water), grind and mix. The quality of the resulting explosive directly depends on the degree of grinding and the homogeneity of the mixture. To the resulting mixture, add 3-5% by weight of diesel fuel and place in a vessel with a piston:

T----¬
--+ ¦ ¦- a vessel with a mixture
L==¦---- |
piston

This can be a smaller saucepan with a lid or a specially made container. The piston must be strongly compressed either in a vice, or in a car jack, or, at worst, simply by striking the piston with a sledgehammer. Pour a little mixture, compress, pour a little more - compress, etc. The mixture can be handled quite unceremoniously, since much more severe conditions are required for its detonation.
The result should be a cylinder with a diameter of at least 20 cm and a length of at least 10 cm. It is this volume of ammonal that can be reliably detonated by our detonating cartridge. The degree of compaction in this case should be such that the cylinder does not break when it hits the asphalt when it falls from a height of human growth.

4. Making a bomb.

Make a channel in the center of the cylinder and insert a detonating cartridge with a fuse. The deeper the checker is deepened into the cylinder and the tighter it fits to its walls, the better. The bomb is ready! If, during the test, the ammonal does not detonate, but simply scatters, increase the volume of the detonating cartridge. "

1.3. Mines and land mines

Mines and land mines are divided into:
- for tactical purposes - for anti-tank, anti-personnel, anti-vehicle (road), anti-amphibious, booby-traps (surprises);
- according to the damaging effect - on shock waves (conventional and volumetric explosion), cumulative, fragmentation, shrapnel, incendiary (thermal) and others;
- according to the principle of operation - guided (which can be blown up or brought into combat position at any time at the request of the user) and automatic (which explode upon direct impact on them or after a certain, predetermined period);
- according to the methods of actuation - mines of pressure, exhaust (tension), hourly and combined action;
- by duration - for instant mines and delayed mines;
- according to the material of the case - to metal, plastic, wood, paper, glass and without a case (from stamped explosives);
- according to the level of installation - on suspended (attached) taller than human height (higher than tank towers, car cabins); at ground level (according to the silhouette of a person, vehicles, armored vehicles); buried in the ground (built into buildings or technical facilities); installed at the bottom of reservoirs or in the underwater part of the coast; floating in the water.
It should be noted that anti-personnel mines are very often directional, for example, such as Soviet mines MON-100 and MON-200 (fragmentation directional mines, the range of destruction by fragments, respectively, is up to 100 or up to 200 meters); jumping out of the ground with the help of an expelling charge to a height of one and a half - two and a half meters and striking with fragments from above (such as German frog mines during the Second World War); "finger" ones, containing one pistol cartridge of 9 mm caliber and hitting a fighter with a shot in the foot at the moment when he steps on it.
Anti-tank mines are now more and more often used unframed, with plastic fuses. Such mines are not detected by induction mine detectors, however, they usually do not pose a danger to scouts, since they work when pressure is applied to them weighing at least 180-200 kg.
For mining service buildings, railway structures, airfields, radar stations, communication and control centers, water supply systems, river port facilities, long-term fortifications, etc., usually controlled (by radio or wire) mines and landmines, or (if left their troops) mines and land mines of delayed action, as well as booby traps. Time bombs are set for a period of several hours to several months. The explosion occurs from clock fuses set for a certain period or from closing the electric circuit with the help of automatic slow-acting circuit breakers (most often chemical ones).

During the fortification of positions and areas in the conditions of frozen soils and rocks, the construction of barriers and making passages in them, as well as during the destruction and destruction of objects and structures, units of military branches and special forces use explosive charges in the form of TNT checkers and briquettes from plastic explosives .
As explosives, TNT checkers weighing 75, 200, 400 g are used, which have ignition sockets for installing a detonator cap or an electric detonator.
Plastic explosive briquettes are used to make charges of the required shape, they are undermined by a detonator cap or an electric detonator inserted into the charge to a depth of at least 10 mm. For the explosion of explosive charges, a fire or electric method is used.
With the fire method, it is necessary to have detonator caps, a igniter cord and incendiary tubes. The detonator cap is a cylindrical aluminum sleeve open at one end, in the lower part of which an explosive of increased power is pressed, and on top there is a layer of initiating explosive, very sensitive to external influences.
The igniter cord consists of a powder core with one guide thread in the middle and braids coated with a water-repellent compound. The cord can be of three types: in a plastic sheath (OSHP) of a grayish-white color, in an asphalted (OSHA) or double asphalted (OShDA) sheath of a dark gray color. The burning rate of the igniter cord in air is about 1 cm/s. Under water, the cord burns at a depth of up to 5 m. The ignition of the cord is carried out by mechanical and grating igniters, a smoldering wick and matches. Incendiary pipes can be factory-made or military-made. Factory-made tubes have a mechanical or grating igniter of the igniter cord.

Basic data of incendiary tubes

Parameters ZTP-50 ZTP-150 ZTP-300
length, cm 55 150 100 weight, g 50 75 65 color OSH White White Blue Explosion delay time, s: in air 50 150 360 under water at a depth of 5 m 40 100 300

In the troops, incendiary pipes are made in the following way:
- with a sharp knife on a wooden lining, a piece of igniter cord of the required length (but not less than 50 cm) is cut at a right angle, ensuring that during the burning of the cord the demolition man retreats to a shelter or to a safe distance;
- the cut end of the OSH is carefully inserted into the sleeve of the detonator cap until it stops in the cup;
- fix the detonator cap on the igniter cord by crimping, and in its absence, the end of the BB inserted into the detonator cap should be wrapped with insulating tape or paper so that the cord does not fall out of the sleeve under the action of gravity. To produce an explosion, an incendiary tube is inserted or screwed into the ignition socket of the charge fixed on the object to be blown up. The detonator cap must enter the ignition nest to the bottom. For the convenience of igniting the incendiary tube with an ordinary match, the end of the igniter cord is cut obliquely, the match head is applied tightly to the powder core of the OH and ignited with a matchbox. A detonating cord is used to produce a simultaneous explosion of several charges. It consists of a core - high power explosive and a number of internal and external braids, covered with a moisture-proof shell. Cord color - red. Explosion speed - not less than 6500 m/s. When shot through with a bullet, the cord can explode. It must be protected from mechanical damage, prolonged exposure to moisture and sunlight. A cord with a damaged sheath must not be stored or used.
The detonating cord is blown up with an incendiary tube, an explosive charge or an electric detonator.
For a simultaneous explosion, explosive charges are interconnected by segments of a detonating cord. These connections are called networks, which come in three forms: serial, parallel, and mixed. In serial and mixed networks, a closing cord is used, i.e., the extreme charges are interconnected by a segment of a detonating cord. Do not allow the intersection of one piece of cord with another.
With the electric method, electric detonators, wires, current sources, test and measuring instruments are needed. The electric detonator consists of a detonator cap and an electric igniter, assembled in one sleeve. The troops are supplied with two types of electric detonators - EDP and EDP-r, which are identical in design, but the EDP-r has a threaded sleeve for screwing into the ignition socket of a demolition cartridge or charge. The design resistance of the electric detonator in the heated state is assumed to be 2.5 Ohm, the minimum design current for blasting one EAF at direct current is 0.5 A, at alternating current is 1 A. For the manufacture of electric explosive networks, wires are used: single-core (SPP-1 and SP- 1) and two-core (SPP-2 and SP-2). The electrical resistance of 1 km of the core of the SPP-1 or SPP-2 wire is 37.5 ohms, and the wires of the SP-1 or SP-2 wires are 25 ohms.
Sources of electric current: demolition machines, dry and storage batteries, mobile power plants, lighting and power networks of local power plants. To explode charges electrically, electric explosive networks are laid with a series or parallel connection of electric detonators. In the first case, the guaranteed rated current is assumed to be 1 A for direct current and 1.5 A for alternating current, the difference in the resistance of the electric detonators should not exceed 0.3 Ohm. When electric detonators are connected in parallel, the calculated current is equal to the product of the current required for the explosion of a single electric detonator by the number of electric detonators.
Checking and measuring devices are designed to measure resistance, check the serviceability of electric explosive networks, electric detonators, wires and current sources. These include the LM-48 linear bridge, the M-57 small ohmmeter and the control panels for testing subversive machines.
The linear bridge allows you to measure resistance from 0.2 to 5000 ohms. Using a small ohmmeter, the conductivity of wires, electric detonators and electric explosive networks is checked (the ohmmeter needle deviates to the right if they are in good condition or there is conductivity of the tested wires and electric detonators).

Basic data of demolition machines
indicators KPM-1A KPM-2 KPM-3
Weight, kg 1, 6 6 2, 3 Rated voltage, V 1500 1500 1600 The largest allowable number of simultaneously exploded electric detonators, pcs. : connected in series 100 300 200 connected in parallel 5 6 5
Total allowable resistance of the electric explosive network, Ohm: with series connection of electric detonators 350 900 600 with parallel connection of electric detonators 15 50 30

1.3.1. Explosives

*Fuses*. A field mine fuse (VPF) is used in the construction of improvised mines. It consists of a body with a clamp for attaching the fuse to various objects; a fuse equipped with an igniter capsule and a detonator capsule; drummer; mainspring; collets for holding the drummer in the cocked state (using a swivel with the head of the drummer); a safety cotter pin, which ensures complete safety during handling and transportation of the fuse (after the explosive is installed, the cotter pin is pulled out with a hook tied to a cord).
The VPF explodes by pulling the collet up or tilting it in any direction. The force required to pull the collet up 4-6.5 kg, to tilt in any direction 1-1.5 kg.
With the help of VPF in conjunction with charges, you can:
- undermine bridges, buildings, reservoirs and other structures;
- arrange traps;
- to mine threatened areas (narrow paths, fords, blockages, etc.).
VPF is connected both with explosives of 75, 200, 400 grams, and with charges of greater weight, and it is necessarily tied to the charge with wire, twine or other improvised materials. In all cases, the VPF, together with the charge, must be firmly tied to some local object or to a specially driven stake, or they must be tightly embedded in the ground.
VPF (with a charge) can explode both from tension by means of a twine tied at one end to the collet ring and the other to a stake or bush, and from pressing the collet with your foot or hand.
The modernized simplified fuse (MSF) consists of a body, a striker, a spring, pins, a pin and a fuse. In the combat position, the spring is in a compressed state, the check enters the hole of the drummer, holding it in the cocked position. After pulling out the checks, the drummer, under the action of a spring, strikes the igniter cap of the fuse and the detonator cap explodes. The force required to pull out the pins is only 0.5 kg.
MUV is used in pressure mines with a special pin having a T-shaped eye, where the pin is pulled out by pressing on the mine cover, in tension mines (POMZ-2, etc.), where the pin is pulled out by tension of the wire or twine tied to check, as well as in guided mines, where pulling out checks is done at the right time from a distance using a long cord or wire.
The order of operation during discharge is as follows:
- put a safety tube on the drummer rod;
- insert a pin into the hole of the rod;
- untie the wire, remove the fuse from the charge;
- unscrew the fuse and remove the charge.
The safety tube must also be used when discharging mines of the POMZ-2 type.
The MV-5 fuse consists of a body with a cap, a striker, a spring, a ball and a fuse.
In the combat position, the spring is in a compressed state, the drummer is held by the ball in the cocked position. When you press on the cap from above, the latter falls and with its recess becomes against the ball, the ball enters this recess under the pressure of the spring. The drummer is released and, moving under the action of a spring, with its sting pierces the igniter cap, from the spark of which the detonator cap explodes, and with it the charge.
MV-5 explodes from pressure on the cap with a force of 10-20 kg and is used in pressure mines.
*Incendiary tube*. Incendiary tubes in combination with charges (TNT cartridges) are used for various demolition works.
The incendiary tube consists of a detonator cap, a igniter (fickford) cord and a smoldering wick. A detonator cap is a metal sleeve open at one end, into which a high-powered explosive charge is pressed. The detonator cap explodes from the spark of the igniter cord.
The detonator cap requires great care in handling, since it explodes from impact, scratching of the explosive composition, heating, from a flame and a spark.
Fire-conducting (bickford) cord consists of a loosely compressed powder core and linen and jute sheaths covered with mastic. The cord burns both in air and under water at a speed of 1 cm per second. Cords are available in black, brown and white.
Cord diameter 5.5 mm.
A smoldering wick burns at a rate of 1 cm per 1-2 minutes.
To make an incendiary tube, you need to cut off a piece of igniter cord of such a length that during its burning you can either hide behind a shelter or move to a safe distance from an explosion. Without a smoldering wick, the segment of the igniter cord must be no shorter than 50 cm, and with a wick, no shorter than 10 cm. One end of the igniter cord is cut off perpendicular to the axis, carefully inserted into the sleeve of the detonator cap. To keep the detonator cap firmly on the cord, the end of its open sleeve is crimped with special tongs (crimping). On the other end of the cord, cut obliquely, a piece of a smoldering wick (at least 5 cm) is put on. In this form, the incendiary tube is inserted into the charge (TNT checker) and ignited.
*Electrodetonator*. The electric detonator consists of a detonator cap and an electric igniter, it is used in guided mines, time-delayed mines and when explosive charges are electrically detonated.
The explosion of a charge or mine with an electric detonator is carried out by passing through it an electric current received from a blasting machine, batteries or cells connected by wires to the charge. In the latter cases, the current can be switched on by slow-acting automatic contactors.
* Subversive machines *. PM-2 gives a current with a voltage of 120 V, a power of 1.5 amperes with a total length of wires of 1 km. It can detonate up to 25 electric detonators connected in series at the same time. Machine dimensions: length 12 cm, width 11 cm, height 7 cm, weight 2.5 kg.
KPM-1 gives a current of 1500 V and can detonate up to 100 electric detonators connected in series (or 5 connected in parallel). The weight of this machine is 1.6 kg.

1.3.2. Precautionary measures

Persons assigned to carry out explosions must be familiar with the rules for handling explosives and blasting devices, have skills in performing these tasks and have a thorough knowledge of the precautions. For openly positioned people, the following distances are safe:
- in case of explosion of charges up to 10 kg without shells: in the air - 50 m, on the ground - 100 m;
- when undermining a tree - 150 m;
- when undermining brick, concrete, stone - 350 m;
- when undermining openly located metal structures - 500 m.
Caps-detonators of incendiary tubes and electric detonators are inserted into external charges after they are attached to the elements (objects) to be blown up immediately before the explosion. With the fire method of blasting, only one person can approach the failed charges and not earlier than 15 minutes after the failure (when, according to the calculation, an explosion should have occurred). If signs of burning of the cord are found, it is forbidden to approach the charges. On the "Ready" command, the Demomen stand at the charges and prepare to ignite the incendiary tubes. Ignition is carried out on the command "Fire", the demolitionmen retreat on the command "Retreat". On this command, all the demolitionists must depart, including those who did not have time to set fire to the pipes.
With the electric method of blasting, checking the electrical explosive networks and connecting the main wires to the current source should be carried out only after all people are removed from the locations of the charges. At the time of installation of electric detonators in charges in the main wires of the electric explosive network at a distance of 30 - 40 m from the charge being blown up, a "security gap" is arranged (one of the main wires is torn). Its splicing during withdrawal is carried out by the person who installs the electric detonators in the charges. In the production of group explosions, the results of the explosion should be checked by one person. In case of failure, it is necessary to disconnect the ends of the main wires from the current source, isolate them, spread them apart and find out the reasons for the failure. It is allowed to approach an unexploded (failed) charge no earlier than after 15 minutes.

1.3.3. Anti-tank and anti-personnel mines

* Anti-tank mines * are intended for mining the terrain against enemy tanks and other mobile ground military equipment. Anti-tank mine TM-57 - anti-track, consists of a metal case with a pressure cover, an explosive charge and a fuse. The mine can be used with push-action fuses - MV-57, MVZ-57 or the MVSh-57 pin fuse. The MV-57 fuse is used when setting the mine manually, it is transferred to the combat position by removing the safety pins and turning the screw. The MVZ-57 fuse is used when setting a mine with a minelayer. Transferring it to the combat position is done by pressing a button. The deceleration mechanism of the fuse ensures its automatic transfer from a safe position to a combat position after 40 - 70 s. The MVSh-57 fuse is used to make the mine blast-resistant when exposed to the shock wave of the explosion. Anti-tank mine TM-62 - anti-track, depending on the material used, it consists of a metal (TM-62M), plastic (TM-62P) or wooden (TM-62D) body, explosive charge, intermediate detonator and fuse.
To install anti-tank mines manually, you need to dig a hole, install a mine in it, put the fuse in a combat position and disguise the mine. The fuse is screwed into the mine directly at the installation site.
Remove and neutralize previously installed anti-tank mines in the following order: make sure that the mine is set to the extractable position, remove the camouflage layer from the mine, unscrew the fuse from the mine, transfer it from the combat position to the transport position and screw it into the mine, remove the mine from its place installation, clean it from the soil and inspect for damage.
* Anti-personnel mines * are designed to mine the area against enemy manpower. According to the damaging effect, they are divided into high-explosive and fragmentation, according to the principle of actuating pressure or tension mines. Most anti-personnel mines are used with MUV and MUV-2 fuses.
Mina PDM-6M - high-explosive, pressure action, consists of a wooden case, an explosive charge (200-gram TNT checker), a MUV or MUV-2 fuse with a T-shaped combat check and an MD-2 or MD-5M fuse. Principle of operation: when you press the mine cover, it goes down and pulls out the combat check of the fuse, which leads to its operation and the explosion of the mine. A mine with an open lid and a TNT checker inserted into it is installed in a hole dug in the ground so that the mine cover protrudes 1-2 cm above the ground surface. Then a fuse is inserted into the mine, the lid is closed and the mine is masked. Removal of the safety checks from the fuse is carried out after the completion of all mine installation operations. The designers provided that the mine fuse did not work with a force of less than 1 kg. But if this force is within 1 ... 12 kg, a mine explosion is guaranteed.
Mina PMN - high-explosive, pressure action, consists of a plastic case, an explosive charge, a pressure device, a trigger mechanism and an MD-9 fuse. Principle of operation: when the mine is pressed, the cover and stem are lowered, the lugs of the stem disengage from the striker, the latter is released and, under the action of the mainspring, pricks the fuse, which, exploding, causes the mine to explode.
The installation of the mine is carried out in the following sequence: the plug is turned off, the fuse is inserted into the mine, the plug is wrapped back; a hole is torn off according to the size of the mine so that the mine installed in it rises above the ground by 1 - 2 cm; without pressing the cover of the mine, a safety pin is pulled out, after removing which, at the MUV-2 fuse, the cutter under the action of the mainspring cuts the metal element and the fuse goes into the combat position (the cutting time is at least 2.5 minutes, which ensures the safe installation of mines). Then the mine should be installed in the hole and carefully, without pressing the mine, disguise it.
In winter, with a snow depth of up to 10 cm, PMD-6M and PMN mines are installed on the ground, and at greater depths - on compacted snow and masked with a layer of snow no more than 6 cm thick. installation.
So, an enemy infantryman stepped on a mine, the explosion put him out of action. Another came, a third. In general, each enemy soldier has his own mine. Is it possible to increase the effectiveness of defeating manpower? You can use fragmentation mines.
POMZ-2M mine - fragmentation, circular destruction, consists of a cast-iron body, an explosive charge of the MUV-2 fuse with an MD-5M fuse and a P-shaped combat pin. In addition, each mine includes two or three pegs, a carabiner with a wire 0.5 m long and a wire extension. The principle of operation of the mine: when the wire is pulled, the combat check is pulled out of the fuse, the drummer is released and, under the action of the mainspring, pricks the fuse, which, exploding, causes the mine to explode. The body of the mine is crushed into fragments, which scatter in radial directions, hitting the enemy's manpower.
Mina is installed with one or two branches of wire stretching. To install a mine with one branch of a wire brace, it is necessary to hammer in a peg so that it rises 12 - 15 cm above the ground, fasten the brace for it and stretch it towards the installation of the mine; at the site of the installation of the mine, hammer in the installation peg with an elevation above the ground by 5 - 7 cm; put a combat checker into the mine body with an ignition nest inside the mine and put the mine body with the checker onto the mounting peg; connect the MUV-2 fuse with the fuse and screw it into the upper opening of the mine body, hook the fuse on the combat pin with a carabiner and, making sure that the pin is securely held, pull the safety pin out of the MUV-2 fuse.
To install a mine with two branches of a wire brace, it is necessary to drive two pegs into the ground at a distance of about 8 m from one another, tie the ends of the wire brace to them at a height of 5 - 8 cm; against the middle of the wire stretching, stepping back from it towards the enemy by 1 m, hammer in the mounting peg and put on it a mine case with a 75-gram TNT block; roll up a loop in the middle of the wire stretching and, having tried on the length of the wire segment, tie a carabiner to it. All subsequent operations are similar to the operations when installing a mine with one branch of a wire extension. It is prohibited to remove and neutralize the POMZ-2M mine with the MUV-2 fuse.
Mine OZM-4 - fragmentation, jumping out, circular destruction, supplied in a kit, which consists of an incompletely equipped mine, a special fuse, an unloaded MUV-2 fuse, a wire extension with a carabiner wound on a coil, and two wooden pegs. Principle of operation: the mine is triggered by the tension of a wire stretcher pulling the pin out of the MUV-2 fuse. When the fuse is triggered, an igniter cap is pricked and a beam of fire is transmitted through the tube to the expelling charge. Under the action of an expelling charge (15 g), the bottom of the mine comes off at the place of the threaded connection and the mine is thrown to a height equal to the length of the tension cable (0.6 - 0.8 m). When the cable is pulled, the drummer compresses the mainspring and, freeing it, pricks the fuse detonator cap. The fuse of the fuse causes the explosive charge of the mine to explode. The body of the mine is crushed into fragments, which, flying apart, inflict defeat.
The procedure for installing a mine: dig a hole with a depth of 16 - 17 cm and install a mine in it; unscrew the plug with the shackle, insert the fuse into the mine and screw the plug back; fill the space around the mine with soil and compact the soil; drive in a peg 15–20 cm high from the surface of the earth at a distance of 0.5 m of the hole; hook a wire extension to the shackle of the cork with a carabiner and stretch it, passing it through the slot at the end of the clogged peg; at the end of the wire brace, drive in the second peg, tying a wire brace to it with a slight slack; unscrew the cap from the nipple and screw it onto the cork; screw the fuse MUV-2 onto the nipple; unfasten the carabiner from the shackle of the cork and disguise the mine; hook the carbine on the ring of the combat checks of the fuse; pull out the safety pin.
Mines OZM-4 with a fuse MUV-2 are prohibited from being removed and neutralized, they are destroyed at the installation site.

Basic data of anti-personnel mines

Indicators PDM-6M PMN POMZ-2M OZM-4

Total weight, g 490 550 1200 5000
Mass of explosives, g 200 200 75 170
Mine dimensions, mm diameter (length) 200х90 110 60 90 height 50 53 107 167
Way to actuate Push Tension
Actuation force, H 60 - 280 80 - 250 5 - 13 5 - 13
Radius of continuous damage, m Local 4 13
Housing material Wood Plastic Metal

When laying and neutralizing anti-tank and anti-personnel mines, it is prohibited to: throw mines, expose them to blows, stack them and destroy them by burning, open mine cases and remove explosives from them, insert and remove fuses, fuses, detonator caps from mines using force or impact , defuse and remove mines with damaged fuses, remove those frozen into the ground (ice) and covered ice mines, store, transport and transfer together and without appropriate capping mines, blasting caps, fuses, fuses.

1.3.4. Methods for setting minefields

Minefields can be used as demolition works. They are characterized by the size along the front and in depth, the number of rows of mines, the distance between the rows and mines in the rows, the consumption of mines per 1 km, the probability of hitting manpower and military equipment.
Groups of mines (individual mines) are placed on roads, detours, fords, mountain trails, in hollows, dredging and in settlements.
The installation of minefields is carried out with the help of minelayers and manually. The installation method is determined by the tactical situation, the availability of forces, means and time to complete the task. When laying minefields, it is necessary to have a solid knowledge of the structure of engineering ammunition, the rules for handling them and mining techniques. Before leaving for mining, the commander is obliged to conduct a briefing and check the knowledge of the personnel of the material part of the ammunition and safety measures. Before the start of mining, all personnel are given signals and commands to control, communicate and call for fire.
For each minefield, regardless of the method of installation, a binding scheme is drawn up and a minefield form is filled out.
According to their purpose, minefields are divided into anti-tank, anti-personnel, and mixed.
In anti-tank minefields, mines are installed in three to four rows with a distance between rows of 20-40 m and between mines in a row of 4-5.5 m for anti-track type TM-62 and 9-12 m for anti-bottom type TMK-2. Their consumption per 1 km of the minefield, respectively, is 750-1000 and 300-400 pieces.
The installation of an anti-tank minefield manually by the method of combat crew is carried out by the subunit outside the fire impact of the enemy. The platoon personnel from the field warehouse bring four mines and line up on the starting line in one line with an interval of 8 steps facing the minefield. At the command of the commander, the entire rank moves forward and carries out mines, for which, having reached the fourth, third and second row, each soldier in each row places one anti-tank mine to his left at a distance of one step, then takes two steps to the right and moves to the next row . Coming to the front row, the soldiers set mines in the ground. In the presence of grass cover, the turf gently turns away. After installation, the mines are carefully masked. Capping from mines and fuses, tools, milestones and pointers must not be left at installation sites.
At the command of the commander, the soldiers, returning back, set mines in the ground in the second, third and fourth rows. Squad leaders check the quality of the installation and the correct equipment of mines. The commander of the right-flank (left-flank) squad, during the installation of mines, marks the boundaries of the mined area with milestones. After the installation of mines, milestones are removed, the unit lines up on the starting line and advances for the next run.
A trained platoon can set 1000 - 1200 minutes in this way in 10 hours.
The installation of an anti-tank minefield with the help of the PMZ-4 minelayer is carried out by a calculation consisting of five numbers. The first number is the operator, who is also the head of the calculation, is on the minelayer, sets the mining step, controls the plow device and monitors the passage of mines in the conveyor. The second, third and fourth numbers are in the back of the car, and they remove the mines from the container, feed them to the receiving tray and the minelayer conveyor. The fifth calculation number is the tractor driver. The mining step is taken equal to 4 or 5.5 m. A three-row minefield 800 - 1100 m long is set by three minelayers in one run. Installation time - 35-40 min.
With the use of minelayers, anti-tank mines can be installed with penetration into the ground or on the surface. The loading of mines into the container is carried out outside the minefield by crews with the involvement of drivers of transport vehicles.
In the course of hostilities, mobile barrier detachments are created from units armed with PM3-4. For one day of battle, they are allocated 3 ammunition (1800) anti-tank mines.
Anti-personnel minefields are established from high-explosive and fragmentation mines. They can be installed in front of anti-tank minefields, in front of non-explosive obstacles or in combination with them, and in areas of terrain inaccessible to mechanized troops.
Along the front, minefields range from several tens to hundreds of meters, and in depth - 10 - 15 meters or more. Minefields can consist of 2 - 4 or more rows with a distance between rows of more than 5 m, and between mines in a row for high-explosive mines - at least 1 m. Consumption per 1 km of a minefield - 2 - 3 thousand mines.
Anti-personnel minefields are set by minelayers PM3-4, using vehicles equipped with trays and manually.
When setting mines manually by the method of formation calculation, only high-explosive mines are used. Each soldier lays as many mines in one run as there are rows in the minefield.
The installation of a minefield is carried out similarly to the installation of an anti-tank minefield. The installation of mines in the ground starts from the first row without first posting them. At the command of the commander, the soldiers, having completed the installation of the first row, move on to the second, third and fourth row. The boundaries of visits are marked with milestones, flags, which are rearranged during subsequent visits and removed at the end of the installation. Squad commanders monitor the observance by soldiers of precautionary measures and the correct installation.
For 10 hours, a trained platoon can set 3000 - 4000 minutes.
With the use of minelayers, high-explosive anti-personnel mines are laid out on the ground surface.

1.3.5. Means of detection and clearance of mines

Detection of mines, individual land mines, as well as mined areas is carried out:
- according to external signs;
- special devices (mine detectors, probes, stethoscopes);
- dogs of the Minor Investigation Service.
* Unmasking signs of mines, mined areas and places *. In the field, as a rule, mines are installed in holes dug in the ground, and in winter in the snow. From above, mines are covered with turf, grass, earth or snow. Therefore, in the field, the signs of mined areas will be: hillocks, soil settlement, freshly plowed land, blown up snow, cut turf, dried grass on a green background, scattered straw, etc. Sometimes the signs may be mine boxes left by the enemy in the mining area , pieces of twine, wire, insulating tape, capping and labels from mines, fuses and explosives. Unmasking signs are also thick or oiled paper scattered on the ground, plastic film, forgotten orientation or setting pegs; small hillocks arranged in a certain sequence, and the difference between these places and the general background of the surrounding area; minefield fencing with signs or traces of a removed fence (traces of stakes, pieces of barbed wire, forgotten signs); the presence of wires in a controlled minefield, traces of the stay and work of people, machines.
It is allowed to make passages in minefields by reconnaissance sappers or reconnaissance officers who have good engineering training and experience in handling enemy mines.
If it is necessary to overcome a mined area of ​​the terrain, a mine detected with a probe or a mine detector can be removed with a cat (rope), destroyed on the spot by detonation or removed manually if it is not set to non-removable.
Signs of controlled mines and mines of tension action will be a stretched wire or twine and laid wires.
The presence of mines in houses may be evidenced by: broken masonry, fresh plaster, freshly painted walls or floors.
In general, in houses, as a precaution against booby traps, all objects should be carefully inspected without moving them from their place (curtains, chairs, dishes, left food, watches and other items), as well as stoves, wells and garbage.
*Devices for detecting mines*. The mine detector is designed to detect mines that have a predominantly metal case. It allows you to detect mines at a depth of up to 0.4 m - 0.5 m.
* Probe * - a metal, pointed rod with which they probe (pierce) the soil or snow in order to detect mines. The probe can detect both metal and other mines. By length, the probes are divided into: long - 3-5 m; medium length - 1.5-2.5 m; shortened - 1-1, 2 m; short - 0.6-1 m. Probes can be with one tip and with several tips (multi-track). In addition to specially made probes, substitute probes are used, such as: bayonets, ramrods, Finnish knives, steel rods, wooden sticks, etc. not from above, but from the side. Puncture depth up to 40 cm in the ground, up to 60 cm in the snow.
* Stethoscope * - a hearing instrument, similar in shape to a doctor's stethoscope. Purpose - to determine the presence of mines with clockwork. The stethoscope makes it possible to detect a mine by the operation of the clockwork: behind a wooden wall up to 20 cm thick; behind a stone wall up to 35 cm thick; in the ground at a depth of up to 50 cm; in snow up to 60 cm.
For greater convenience in work, the stethoscope tube must be connected to the ear by means of a rubber tube.

1.3.6. Making passages in minefields

Passages in minefields are arranged:
- explosions of elongated charges, which are made up of 400-gram checkers laid in one row throughout the entire depth of the minefield. From the explosion of one charge, a passage is formed with a width of 1-1.5 m. In addition, service elongated charges are used;
- throwing hand and anti-tank grenades into the minefield in such a way as to get a series of almost touching funnels;
- laying bridges of boards and poles over the minefield, covering the entire depth of the minefield.
Bridging may only be used when it is known that the mines are covered with soil more than 20 cm thick.
In addition, passages in anti-tank minefields can be made by removing mines from the ground and dragging them away. Extraction of mines is carried out with a cat or a hook on a rope. For this you need:
- carefully, without moving the mine from its place, remove the masking layer from it;
- hook the cat on the handle of the mine or on the cork on its cover;
- move away to a safe distance (30-50 m) and pull the rope from behind cover or lying down, remove the mine from the ground and pull it out of the passage (it should be borne in mind that the possibility of a mine explosion is not ruled out).
In all cases, the passes made are indicated by milestones or special signs.

1.3.7. Destruction and clearance of individual mines

Anti-tank mines installed with an additional tension fuse (in the event that the tension thread is pulled tight and has no slack) are destroyed by detonation on the spot. At the same time, it is necessary that nearby (30-50 m) there is a shelter for the undermining. Undermining is carried out by pulling or breaking the wire (tension thread) using a rope 30-50 m long with a hook at the end.
If there is no shelter and the tension thread is slack, the mine is cleared. For this you need:
- carefully cut the wire (cord) leading to the mine, without pulling or pulling it;
- approaching the mine (along the wire), carefully examine whether another wire is suitable for the mine (if there are two fuses), and if one is found, carefully cut it;
- remove the masking layer around the fuse, insert checks (a nail or a piece of wire) into the holes of the striker rods;
- pick up a mine with a hook or loop and pull it out of the ground from a distance of 30-50 m;
- unscrew the fuse by turning it counterclockwise;
- put the mine aside and mark it with some kind of sign.
Shrapnel-type anti-personnel mines must be cleared as follows:
- carefully, without pressing on the antennae or the head of the fuse, rake the soil around the fuse;
- insert the pin (nail, wire) into the hole of the drummer rod;
- pull a mine out of the ground with a cat or a hook from a distance of 30-50 m;
- unscrew the fuse.
Other types of pressure mines are not removed from the ground, but are destroyed on the spot by detonating an explosive block placed next to the mine.

1.4. HAND GRENADE

This section includes descriptions of hand-held fragmentation and anti-tank grenades in service with the Soviet Army.

1.4.1. General information

1. Hand-held fragmentation grenades (Fig. granat1. gif) are intended to defeat enemy manpower in close combat (when attacking, in trenches, shelters, settlements, in forests, mountains, etc.).
In service with the Soviet Army are:
- hand grenade RGD-5;
- hand grenade RG-42;
- F-1 hand grenade.
Depending on the range of the fragments, grenades are divided into offensive and defensive.
Hand grenades RGD-5 and RG-42 are offensive grenades. F-1 grenade - defensive.
Hand fragmentation grenades are equipped with a modernized unified fuse for hand grenades (UZRGM).
Note. It is forbidden to use the UZRG fuses available in the troops for training in throwing hand grenades, they are replaced by UZRGM fuses.
The fuse capsule ignites at the moment the grenade is thrown, and its explosion occurs 3.2 - 4.2 s after the throw.
Grenades RGD-5, RG-42 and F-1 explode without fail when falling into mud, snow, water, etc. The explosion produces a large number of fragments that fly into different sides. Fragments of RGD-5 and RG-42 grenades have the energy necessary to destroy manpower with a radius of up to 25 m, and F-1 grenades - up to 200 m.
2. The RKG-3 hand-held cumulative grenade (fig. granat2.gif) is an anti-tank grenade and is designed to fight tanks and other armored targets (self-propelled artillery, armored personnel carrier, armored car, etc.), as well as to destroy solid barriers and field shelters.
A hand-held cumulative grenade, when it hits a target (hard barrier), instantly explodes, the gases formed during the explosion, thanks to the cumulative funnel, are collected in a narrow beam that is capable of penetrating the armor of a modern tank and destroying its crew and equipment inside. The most effective effect of the grenade is when it hits the target with the bottom. The direction of the flight of the grenade bottom forward is provided by the stabilizer.
3. The relatively small weight of grenades allows a trained soldier to throw them at a distance: fragmentation grenades - at 40-50 m; anti-tank grenade - at 15-20 m.

1.4.2. Grenade Handling, Care and Saving

1. Grenades enter the troops in wooden boxes. In the box grenades, handles and fuses are placed separately in metal boxes. There is a knife to open the boxes. The walls and lid of the box are marked with: the number of grenades in the box, their weight, the name of the grenades and fuses, the manufacturer's number, the batch number of the grenades, the year of manufacture and the danger sign.
2. All stocks of grenades and fuses, except for wearable ones, should be stored in factory sealed containers.
3. Grenades are carried by soldiers in grenade bags. The fuses are placed in them separately from the grenades, while each fuse must be wrapped in paper or a clean rag. In tanks (armored personnel carriers, self-propelled artillery mounts), grenades and fuses separately from them are placed in bags.
3. Before being placed in a grenade bag and before loading, grenades and fuses are inspected. When inspecting, pay attention to the fact that the body of the grenade does not have deep dents and rusting; the fuse tube was not clogged and had no through damage; the fuse was clean and free of rust and bruises; the ends of the safety pins were separated and did not have cracks in the bends. Fuses with cracks or with a green coating are unsuitable for use.
4. Protect grenades and fuses from strong shocks, impacts, fire, dirt and dampness. If they were dirty or soaked, wipe the grenades thoroughly as soon as possible and dry them in the sun or in a warm room, but not near the fire. Drying grenades is mandatory under supervision.
5. Grenades stored for a long time in grenade bags should be inspected periodically. Defective grenades and fuses are handed over to the warehouse for destruction.
6. Loading a grenade (inserting a fuse) is only allowed before throwing it.
7. Combat grenades should only be issued to those trained in handling them.
It is forbidden to disassemble live grenades and fix malfunctions in them, carry grenades outside the bags (suspended by the safety pin ring), as well as touching unexploded grenades is prohibited.
To study the device of grenades, techniques and rules for throwing them, use educational, training and imitation grenades and posters.
Trainees who have successfully completed exercises in throwing training and training-imitation grenades are allowed to throw combat grenades.
8. When teaching combat grenade throwing, observe the following precautions: 1) trainees must be in steel helmets; 2) before loading, inspect grenades and fuses; in case of detection of malfunctions, report to the commander; 3) throwing defensive fragmentation and anti-tank grenades from a trench or from behind a shelter not penetrated by fragments, under the direction of an officer; 4) when throwing several grenades by one trainee, throw each subsequent grenade after at least 5 s after the explosion of the previous one; 5) if the grenade was not thrown (the safety pin was not removed), it should be unloaded only on command and under the direct supervision of the commander; 6) keep a record of unexploded grenades and mark the places of their fall with red flags; at the end of throwing, destroy unexploded grenades by detonation at the place of impact in accordance with the rules set forth in the Guidelines for the storage and conservation of artillery weapons and ammunition in the troops; detonation of grenades (fuses) is organized by the commander of the unit; 7) cordon off the area for throwing hand grenades within a radius of at least 300 m; 8) personnel not engaged in throwing grenades should be taken to a shelter or to a safe distance from the firing line (no closer than 350 m); 9) mark the starting position for throwing grenades with white flags, the firing line - with red ones; 10) equip the point for issuing grenades and fuses in a shelter no closer than 25 m from the starting position.

1.4.3. Techniques and rules for throwing hand grenades

1. In classes and exercises, grenades are thrown at the command of the commander, and in battle, depending on the situation, on command or independently.
2. When throwing combat grenades in the classroom and exercises, observe safety measures that exclude the defeat of the thrower and his neighbors. After throwing an offensive grenade on the move, without stopping, prepare to fire and continue moving. After throwing a defensive and anti-tank grenade, immediately take cover, and after the explosion, quickly prepare to fire or start moving. When operating on armored personnel carriers, after the explosion, the thrower is prepared for firing through the loophole.
3. Throwing hand grenades in combat is carried out from various positions: standing, kneeling, lying down, as well as in motion from an armored personnel carrier and on foot (offensive only).
4. To throw a grenade, you need to choose a place and position that ensure the free flight of the grenade to the target (there are no obstacles on the way: tree branches, tall grass, wires, etc.).
5. It is necessary to throw a grenade vigorously, giving it the most favorable flight path.
6. Throwing a grenade consists of performing the following techniques: preparation for throwing (loading a grenade and taking a position) and throwing a grenade.
7. Loading a grenade is carried out at the command "Prepare grenades", and in battle, in addition, independently.
To load it is necessary to remove the grenade from the grenade bag, unscrew the cork from the body tube and screw in the fuse. The grenade is ready to be thrown.
8. Throwing grenades is carried out on the command "Grenade - fire" or "In the trench, grenades - fire", and in battle, in addition, independently.
To throw a grenade you need:
- take the grenade in your hand and firmly press the trigger lever against the body of the grenade with your fingers;
- continuing to press the trigger lever tightly, squeeze (straighten) the ends of the safety pins with the other hand and pull it out of the fuse by the ring with your finger;
- swing and throw a grenade at the target; after throwing a defensive grenade take cover.
In this case, the weapon should be in a position that provides immediate readiness for action (in the left hand, in the “on the chest” position, on the parapet of the trench, etc.).
9. When throwing a grenade while standing, you must stand facing the target; take the grenade in the right (for left-handers - in the left), and the weapon in the left (right) hand and pull out the safety pin; take a step back with the right foot, bending it at the knee, and, turning (as if twisting) the body to the right, swing the grenade in an arc down and back; quickly straightening the right leg and turning the chest towards the target, throw a grenade, passing it over the shoulder and releasing it with an additional jerk of the brush. Transfer the weight of the body at the moment of the throw to the left leg, vigorously move the weapon back.
10. When throwing a grenade from the knee, take a position for firing from the knee, holding the grenade in the right hand, and the weapon in the left, pull out the safety pin; swing the grenade, tilting the body back and turning it to the right; rise and throw a grenade, carrying it over the shoulder and sharply bending at the end of the movement to the left leg.
11. When throwing a prone grenade, take a prone shooting position, put the weapon on the ground and take the grenade in your right hand. With your left hand, pull out the safety pin and, leaning your hands on the ground, push off from it. Moving the right leg slightly back, stand on the left knee (without moving it from its place) and at the same time swing. Straightening the right leg, turning the chest to the target and falling forward, throw a grenade at the target; grab a weapon and get ready to shoot.
12. When throwing a grenade on the move or running, it is necessary: ​​holding the grenade in the right half-bent hand, and the weapon in the left, pull out the safety pin; under the left leg, take the hand with the grenade forward and down; on the second step (with the right foot), the hand continues to move in an arc down backwards while simultaneously turning the body to the right; on the third step, putting the left leg towards the target on the toe and bending the right leg at the knees, finish turning the body and swinging the arm. Using the speed of movement and putting successively the strength of the legs, body and arms into the throw, throw a grenade, carrying it over the shoulder.
13. To throw a grenade from an armored personnel carrier, you must: remaining on the seat or standing with both feet on the bottom or with your right foot on the bottom, and with your left knee on the seat, take the grenade in your right hand, the weapon in your left and pull out the safety pin. Take the left hand with the weapon overboard, rise and at the same time swing the grenade, tilting the body back and turning it to the right; throw a grenade at the target, passing it over the shoulder and sharply leaning forward; take cover behind the side of the armored personnel carrier. If the armored personnel carrier has a roof, you must open the roof before throwing a grenade, and close it after throwing.
If the grenade is thrown from a moving armored personnel carrier, then when choosing the direction and moment of throwing the grenade, one must take into account the correction for the movement of the vehicle.
When throwing a grenade forward (along the armored personnel carrier) or backward, its flight range increases (or decreases), so the grenade must be thrown not at the target, but at a point located 7-10 m closer (further) to the target, if the range to it is 30- 35 m
To hit a target located approximately at a right angle to the direction of movement of an armored personnel carrier and at a distance of 30-35 m, a grenade must be thrown at a distance to the target, but 7-10 m to the right (left) when thrown from the right (left) side. If the grenade is thrown at a shorter range and at an acute (obtuse) angle to the direction of movement of the armored personnel carrier, take the correction half as much, i.e. 3-5 m.
It is most beneficial to throw a grenade from a moving armored personnel carrier at a target in a trench:
- located perpendicular to the path of movement, when the armored personnel carrier will approach the trench or pass it (no more than 6-8 m);
- located parallel to the path of movement, when the armored personnel carrier approaches the target at an average throw range, and its path passes 15-20 m from the trench.
14. To throw a grenade from a tank (self-propelled artillery mount), the loader takes the prepared grenade in his right hand and turns towards the target, pulls out the safety pin, unlocks the hatch and holds the lid by the handle, then opens the lid and throws the grenade through the hatch, then quickly closes the manhole cover and locks it.
15. To throw a grenade from a trench or trench, you must: put the weapon on the parapet, take the grenade in your right hand and pull out the safety pin; set aside (as far as possible) the right leg back, bending in the lower back and slightly bending both legs, take the right hand with the grenade up and back to failure; relying on left hand, straighten up sharply and throw a grenade at the target, and then take cover in a trench (trench).
16. To defeat enemy manpower located in a trench (trench) or in open areas, throw a grenade at an angle to the horizon of about 35-45 ° so that the grenade falls on the target hingedly and rolls less to the side.
17. When throwing grenades at the windows and doors of buildings (breaks in the walls), direct hits are required, so the trajectory of the grenade must be directed straight at the target. Getting grenades into the windows and doors of buildings is achieved by systematic and lengthy training. Throwing a grenade after the throw needs to take cover, since in case of a miss it can be hit by fragments.
18. If the grenade was not thrown and the safety pin was not pulled out of the fuse, it is discharged under the supervision of the commander.
At the command "Discharge a grenade", the fuse is unscrewed, wrapped in rags (paper) and placed in a grenade bag; a cork is screwed into the body tube and the grenade is placed in the bag.

1.4.4. Techniques and rules for throwing a hand-held cumulative grenade

1. Throwing hand-held cumulative grenades consists of performing the following techniques: preparing for throwing (loading a grenade and taking a position) and throwing a grenade.
2. Loading a grenade is carried out on the command "Prepare HEAT grenades", and in battle, in addition, independently.
This command requires:
- take a grenade in your left hand, unscrew the handle from the body and put it in a bag or on a bedding;
- insert the fuse into the tube of the grenade body cover;
- screw the handle onto the grenade body to failure;
The grenade is ready to be thrown.
3. Throwing cumulative grenades is carried out on the command "At the tank, with cumulative grenades, fire" or independently as the tank approaches the range of the grenade.
For throwing you need:
- take the grenade in the right (for a left-handed person - in the left) hand by the handle so that the folding bar is firmly pressed to the handle with the fingers of the hand;
- holding the grenade in the indicated position, straighten the ends of the safety pins, pull it out by the ring from the handle with the finger of the left hand;
- swing and vigorously throw a grenade at the target, then immediately take cover.
4. When throwing a grenade from a trench from a standing position or from a kneeling position, put the weapon on the parapet, take the grenade in your right hand and pull out the safety pin; bending in the lower back and turning the body to the right, take the hand with the grenade to the side and back to failure; leaning with your left hand on the parapet of the trench, straighten up sharply and vigorously throw a grenade at the target, giving it a flat flight path.
5. When throwing a grenade from a prone position, it is necessary to rise to the left knee at the moment the grenade is thrown.
6. With a side wind, it is necessary to take into account the deviation (drift) of an anti-tank grenade away from the direction of the throw, and when throwing a grenade at a moving target, take a lead on its movement in order to get a direct hit of the grenade on the target. Take the lead on a flank moving tank equal to 0.5 of the hull, i.e. direct the grenade into the bow of the tank.
7. If the grenade has not been thrown, it is discharged under the supervision of the commander.
On the command "Discharge a cumulative grenade", insert a safety pin (if it was pulled out) and spread its ends; unscrew the handle from the body of the grenade, remove the fuse from the socket of the body cover, wrap it in rags (paper) and put it in the pocket of the bag; screw the handle onto the lid of the grenade and put the grenade into the bag.