We planned this trip one of the first! I really wanted to see this amazing landscape with my own eyes. You need to go there - it was not in doubt. The question was: "How?"
There are 3 ways to get to Balos Lagoon:
1) The easiest way is to buy an excursion in some travel agency. The host of Beleon-Tour offered us this for 50 euros per person. Street agencies in Bali announce prices from 43 to 60 euros per person. The price of the tour includes: transfer by bus from the hotel to the port of Kissamos, the services of a guide on the bus, a ticket for the boat that will take you first to about. Imeri Gramvousa, then to Balos lagoon and back to Kissamos, return transfer to the hotel.
Pros: no worries, visiting Fr. Imeri Gramvousa.
Cons: price, binding to the ship's schedule, a crowd of people.
2) On a rented car, drive to Kissamos and buy a ticket for the ship on your own. The price of an adult ticket at the box office is 25 euros. If you buy in advance on the Internet http://www.gramvousa.com/Cruises.aspx?id=327&lang=ru, then 22 euros.
If your hotel is somewhere near Kissamos, it is probably possible to get to the port by regular bus. For us, this option was no longer possible, because. the ship sailed at 10:20 am, and Bali is very far from Kissamos.
Pros: You may be able to save a little; visit about. Imeri Gramvousa.
Cons: binding to the ship's schedule, a crowd of people, the need to steer.
3) Drive a rented car. From Kissamos there is an 8 km dirt road almost to the lagoon. According to reviews, this journey takes an average of 40 minutes. The road is narrow, along a serpentine, uphill, there is a risk that the small car will not pull, and there is also a high probability of damaging the bottom with stones sticking out of the ground. Primer insurance is not valid, it is written in all contracts. You will need to leave the car on the mountain and then go down to the beach along the stone steps for about 1.5 km. Then, accordingly, you have to rise.
Pros: price; you are not tied to any schedule, you can leave at any time; if you arrive early, before the ship arrives, you will be almost alone in the lagoon.
Cons: risk of damaging the car; the need to climb 1.5 km up in the heat; impossible to get to. Imeri Gramvousa.
After watching a video on the Internet in which the car is trying to climb this primer, slipping and raising clouds of dust, we decided that we would not risk it. We didn’t want any problems with the rental car, especially since the bottom was not insured with us. Without further ado, we went to the agency that offered the lowest price and bought a tour there for 43 euros per person.
At 7 am we were picked up from the hotel. Since the composition of the tourists was international, on the road we were accompanied by 2 guides at once: a Russian-speaking young man and a German-speaking aunt. In turn, they broadcast something, each about his own: in Russian - about the history of the Gramvousa fortress and migratory birds in the Balos lagoon, in German (as far as we could understand) - about restaurants, bars and toilets on the ship)))
At about 9:30 we arrived at the port, the guide gave us tickets for the boat (by the way, when sold through travel agencies, the ticket price is already only 14 euros) and a receipt for paying an environmental fee worth 1 euro (if you go by car, the fee will also have to be paid ).
The ship has all the benefits of civilization: toilets, a bar, a restaurant. Souvlaki (barbecue) was cooked right in front of us. You can stay both indoors and outdoors. Even on a hot day there was a very strong wind on the open deck, we did not regret that we took sweatshirts with us. In all languages of the world, they announced what time we were arriving, what time we were leaving, and other important information. Friends said that in the summer this ship was not overcrowded. October is full of vacancies.
The journey to the first stop, Imeri Gramvousa Island, takes about an hour. The ship goes along the rocky shore, on which one can observe a black stripe above sea level. Until 365 AD, the island was submerged at this mark. In 365, off the coast of Crete, terrible earthquake. It caused significant destruction in central and southern Greece, Sicily and northern Africa. On the island of Crete, almost all cities were destroyed. The earthquake caused a tsunami that swept along the coasts of the Mediterranean, killing many thousands of people, and the ships were thrown 3 km inland. As a result of this earthquake, the island tilted: the eastern tip sank deeper into the sea, and the western tip rose 9 meters.
6) From the water you can see the primer on the peninsula, on which cars are slowly crawling.
One of the versions of the origin of the name "Gramvousa" is connected with a hole in the rock: in the time of the Venetians, the westernmost part of the island of Crete was called Capo Buso (literally - "leaky edge"). Perhaps, over time, this name was transformed by the local population into the Greek version - "Akra Buza", and then - into "Gramvusa".
Near the northwestern tip of Crete there are 2 uninhabited islands: the northern one is called Agria Gramvousa (stormy Gramvousa), and the southern one is Imeri Gramvousa (calm Gramvousa).
12) Our ship moored at the calm Gramvousa, where the Venetian fortress has been preserved, and we went ashore.
Some of the passengers went to the beach, the rest - pulled up the large stone steps up to the fortress. At the sight of the steps, the feeling of deja vu visited us again)) We cannot do without comfortable, stable shoes here. Climbing in the crowd is not easy: you are not so much afraid of stumbling as you are afraid that some big German aunt will roll on you)).
The fortress on Imeri Gramvousa was built by the Venetians in the middle of the 16th century to protect against Ottoman Empire. The location of this fortress made it possible to control the strait separating western Crete from the Peloponnesian peninsula. But after a little over 100 years, it was captured by the Turks. By that time, the entire island was already in the hands of the conquerors. It took the Cretans 133 years to return the fortress of Gramvousa and turn it into the center of the liberation struggle against the Turkish invaders. But the most difficult conditions that the locals faced in those years forced them to engage in piracy. Almost all ships passing in these waters were attacked: Turkish, Egyptian and European. So Gramvousa gained fame as a pirate fortress. During this period, the population of Imeri Gramvousa Island grew. A school and a church were even built here.
20) The atmosphere of piracy is supported by a dilapidated ship that crashed off the coast of Imeri Gramvus. It sank here in the 80s of the 20th century. According to one of the legends, he allegedly transported drugs and was flooded by the Greek Coast Guard.
In 1828, an Anglo-French squadron with government troops was sent to Gramvuse to fight piracy. Pirates were expelled from the island, and their ships were sunk or captured. And the fortress was again handed over to the Turks, because. Crete belonged to them at that time.
26) The fortress offers stunning views of the neighboring islands and the Balos lagoon.
Gramvousa has the status of a reserve and is protected by the state. This is the habitat of rare representatives of flora and fauna. Many species of migratory birds stop here.
You are given 2 hours to explore the island with the fortress, after which the ship sets off and goes to Balos Bay. This journey takes only 15 minutes. We were told that in bad weather they drop anchor 200 meters from the lagoon and deliver tourists to the beach in small boats. We were more fortunate: the boat moored to land near the island of Tigani (translated as "Frying Pan") and we went ashore. 3 hours are allotted for rest in the bay, then the ship returns to Kissamos.
On the beach there are changing cabins, umbrellas, sunbeds (of course, for a fee) and some kind of catering establishment, which we didn’t go to, because. ate and drank on the ship.
The crowd that poured out of the ship immediately rushed into the turquoise waters. Well, we, having crossed the sandy spit from Tigani to Crete, began to climb the stone steps uphill to capture the view of the lagoon from above.
The sea in this place has many shades from azure blue and emerald green to dark blue.
The beauty is breathtaking!
It is believed that at this point the waters of three seas merge: the Cretan, Ionian and Libyan.
It was very hot, we climbed quite a bit and then we were tired. It was the same path along which people who arrived in cars descend to the beach and climb back to the parking lot. We sympathized with them and went back down to swim.
First we tried to enter the water to the left of the spit. And they were surprised how cold it is! Despite the shallow water and the heat! We were already almost upset that we would not be able to swim. We crossed to the other side of the spit, and there was very warm water.
50) There was still time before departure, but we were already swimming and decided to return to the boat. We took a bottle of retsina and grapes.
Retsina is a Greek resinous white wine. The original taste comes from the fact that in ancient times, vessels with wine, in particular amphoras, were sealed with pine resin to prevent contact with air. With the advent of barrels, the need to use resin disappeared, but the aroma and taste of retsina were so popular that they have survived to this day. Currently, resin is specially added at the fermentation stage to give the wine a characteristic aroma.
The word "ρετσίνα" is translated as "resin". By the way, Russian word"rubber" comes from the same Greek word
Once in Rhodes we already tried to drink retsina, but then it seemed to us a rare muck. Apparently, that was the wrong retsina. Here, on the open deck of the ship, contemplating the heavenly landscape, we appreciated this drink at its true worth.
By 18:00 we arrived at the port of Kissamos, and after 2.5 hours we were at our hotel in Bali and still had time for dinner. After such an eventful day, we dozed all the way to the hotel on the bus and were glad that we did take a tour, and did not go by car.
Balos and Gramvousa is definitely one of the most beautiful places in Crete. I recommend visiting.
My other posts about Crete.
In. name: english Gramvousa
Gramvousa is the common name for two small islands off the northwestern side. Tourist excursions are organized on Imeri Gramvousa or « Calm Gramvousa." The second island, Agria ("Wild") Gramvousa, is unremarkable, except for the fact that it is inhabited by many birds different types, and ship access to it is limited by underwater rocks.
Therefore, in this article we will focus on the island of Imeri Gramvusa, which is simply designated as “Gramvusa” in all tourist booklets.
In 1691, the fortress was sold to the Turks for a lot of money, but after that it was repeatedly attacked by the Cretan rebels. In 1825, their attempts were crowned with success, and the island became the center of pirate activity of three hundred rebels. They had no means of subsistence, and the only way out was to attack Turkish, Egyptian and European ships. The population of the island began to grow, a school and a church appeared here.
By 1828, piracy on the island was eradicated by the Greek rulers, but the fame of the "pirate" island still attracts hundreds of tourists every day during the summer season. The island is currently uninhabited.
1. Climbing to the top of the cliff is quite difficult - it's about half an hour uphill movement along a stone path under the scorching sun.
If you are not ready for such a load, it is better to relax on the beach below.
2. There is practically no shade at the top and a strong wind is possible. Naturally, there are no toilets or points of sale for drinks either - stock up on hats and water. Bonus - the views from the top are really impressive. It captures the spirit from the opened picture of the sea element against the backdrop of wild rocks.
3. From the shore you can see the skeleton of a pirate ship to the left of the main beach. It is not ancient at all - according to one version, it sank near the island in the 1980s and belonged to drug dealers.
4. There are few buildings on the island - the chapel of the Holy Apostles, a mobile tray with shell souvenirs and toilets.
Sunbeds and umbrellas are not available. You can hide from the sun only under rare trees.
5. The only beach suitable for swimming on the island is rocky, the bottom is not the most pleasant for entry. Take special shoes. With a strong wind, waves on the sea are possible, and swimming is not always comfortable.
Watch a short video - Gramvusa from above
The end of the story of Yana Polezhaeva about her vacation in Greece, on the island of Crete in the village of Amudara. Last days Greek vacations and excursions that have been dreamed of for a long time. Links to previous parts of the review are at the end of the article. This review was written for a competition.
Excursions in Crete: Hersonissos, Balos, Gramvousa, Samaria Gorge
Day five and six - Weekend
Finally, the wind stopped, the sun peeked out from behind the clouds, and the calm sea opened its tender arms to me.
“I won’t be able to come home brown, I’ll come red or shabby, but not white!” I firmly decided.
For two days I sunbathed (ekana iliotherapy) and swam (ekana banyo).
The water temperature was 19-20 degrees, which is warmer than in our Ural river Kama in July. Here, by the way, there is also a rivulet, called Almiros (Salty).
Until 12 o'clock I lay on the seashore, and after three I continued "iliotherapy" on the roof of the hotel, where the prudent administrator spread out sun loungers and filled the pool.
I was lying on a Greek roof, under a Greek sky, with a bottle of Greek beer in my hand, and Greece was inside and around me. What else do you need to be happy!
Day seven - Hersonissos
Today I have planned an independent trip to the city of Hersonnisos. There are two sights in Hersonnissos that I dream of visiting - a museum under open sky Lychnostatis and Reptile Rescue Center.
Armed with the map that Yana drew for this occasion, at seven in the morning I hit the road. At first, I took a local bus and drove to the Heraklion bus station. At the bus station there is a printed intercity bus schedule that you can take for yourself. Hersonissos is passed by buses heading west to Malia and beyond. Since I did not know which bus I needed, at the ticket office of the bus station I asked for one ticket to Hersonissos, Lychnostatis. I was asked for what time, I answered that now.
The ticket indicates the departure time of the bus and its number. Intercity buses are always green or cream (city buses are always blue) and the bus number is on the windshield. From which platform your bus departs, you can find out on the electronic scoreboards, of which there are several. The platform number appears next to the bus number when the bus is approaching for boarding.
At eight in the morning at the bus station there were only Greeks going to work and me.
The bus arrived on time, a Greek conductor came up to its door, looking more like a bouncer than a conductor, and started shouting something loudly in the direction of the station. We all - me and the Greeks - tried to give him our tickets, but he did not pay any attention to this, and then completely ran away to the station. We got on the bus and sat down. After some time, our conductor came running, jumped into the bus and again began to shout something, waving his arms, but now to us. He loudly listed several names, among which I caught Hersonissos, and half of the passengers began to get off the bus. I am behind them. We got off, the bus closed the doors and left with the remaining passengers. I was left on the platform in complete confusion, with a bunch of Greeks and an already expired ticket. It looks like my journey may end before it even begins...
But then a bus without a number drove up to our platform and my Greeks rushed into it. I am behind them.
— Hersonissos? I asked the conductor as I got on the bus. He waved his hand into the cabin.
— Hersonissos, Lychnostatis? I asked the bus driver as I moved inside. She nodded happily.
The girl driver famously drove the bus along the serpentine and, without ceasing, talked on the mobile phone.
Somewhere in the middle of Hersonissos, all my fellow travelers left, and I was left with a couple of stops. The girl-driver asked me to wait a bit while she runs away for coffee and buns.))) In parting, I asked permission to take her photo.
Lychnostatis Museum
Lychnostatis- an open-air museum of Cretan life, an amazing place with a unique atmosphere. Opening hours from 9 am to 2 pm. The ticket costs 5 euros. In addition to the ticket, I was given an audio guide in Russian and a map, and I went to feel the local aura.
Entrance to the Lychnostatis Museum
Tavern "Lychnostatis"
It really is a place filled with history, as if the souls of all these things, these people in the photographs live here ... A downpour caught me in an old school building. On the wall, to strange music, old photographs of teachers, students and a school that no longer exists were broadcast in an eternal circle. I waited out the rain, sitting at a desk in the old class, and felt how they were all sitting next to me.
It is impossible to talk about Lychnostatis… I just highly recommend visiting!
Aquarium in Hersonissos
To the next destination - the Reptile Rescue Center (or simply the Aquarium) - you need to go through the whole of Hersonissos in the opposite direction, this is about three kilometers along the main street. The central street at 12 o'clock was a cluster of cars, scooters and people. For three kilometers I made my way along narrow sidewalks through crowds of Russian tourists going to the beach. They say that nice beach is located somewhere on the edge of Hersonissos, and the rest of the coast is rocky. But what are the hotels here! However, I still prefer Amoudara with its pensioner hotels, unhurried European tourists and a three-kilometer sandy beach!
The reptile rescue center is located in a private house, not far from bus stop number 20. Starts working at 10 o'clock. The entrance ticket costs 6 euros. Buying entrance ticket, you become a friend of the terrarium and then you can come for free. There are few animals, but most of them can be touched. Visitors are mostly with children. Turtles crawl underfoot.
I was immediately put on some cute little lizard for a selfie.
And then - a very large lizard ...
It was lunchtime and I was relieved to find that most lizards are vegetarians.
The owner loves his animals very much, and if you know English, he can tell you a lot of interesting things from the life of his wards.
On the way from Hersonnissos to Heraklion in the town of Gouves is the Cretan Oceanarium. I planned to visit him as part of this trip. But today was so filled with impressions that I decided to postpone the Oceanarium for the next time. And one more reason to return to Crete.
Day 8 - Balos Lagoon and Gramvousa Islands
The Balos lagoon is located on the western tip of the island of Crete and, according to local beliefs, is the place where three seas merge - the Ionian, Aegean (locally Cretan) and Libyan. On the Internet, the Balos lagoon is called the most beautiful place on the island of Crete. The Gramvousa Islands are two uninhabited islets located there.
The cost of the tour is 36 euros, lunch on the ship is 19 euros. Almost three hours on the bus, one and a half on the ship and we are on one of the islands of Gramvousa. I was lucky to meet a girl from Perm on the bus who, like me, traveled alone. Her name in Greek is Aggiya, which means "holy." During conversations, five hours of travel flew by unnoticed. I haven't spoken so much in Russian all week. On the island of Gramvousa, we were given an hour to climb the mountain and take pictures against the backdrop of the views, or stay below and take a dip in the waters of the sea. We decided to do everything.
There is a flag on the mountain, just where the most gorgeous view opens. In order not to waste time, you need to run immediately to him. The view is truly amazing!
After taking plenty of pictures, we rushed down to plunge into the sea.
The next stop of our ship was Balos bay. The visit plan is the same as in the previous parking lot - a mountain with views, a lagoon with awesome water and an hour of time for everything.
We, in turn, also decided not to deviate from the beaten track and do everything. To get to the mountain, you need to cross the lagoon. We walked on its white sand and warm shallow water warmed our feet. The mountain turned out to be higher than the previous one. In the middle of the climb there was a post with donkeys for those who still want to but can no longer climb. We could climb, and quite briskly, because at the top, as a reward, those views for which many people go to Crete. The higher we climbed, the smaller our ship became, and the people below gradually turned into ants. Here it is, a view of Balos like on advertising posters! Already breathtaking!
The confluence of the three seas has a truly strong energy. We felt it ourselves when, at the speed of mountain goats, we tirelessly rushed up and down the mountains.
Day 9 - Samaria Gorge. Last day on the island
The gorge starts in the White Mountains of Lefka Ori and ends on the south coast of Crete in the village of Agia Roumeli. The total length of the gorge is 18 km. Of these, the first 3 km you are transported by bus to the equipped entrance. There you buy a ticket, which you will need to keep with you and give at the exit. So the workers of the gorge will know that you got out safely. From the entrance to the exit of the gorge you walk 13 km. From the exit to the sea, another 2 km, which can be walked on foot or by minibus.
The first 3 kilometers of the way is a constant steep descent along a narrow rocky path. It is important to put your feet very carefully, constantly look under your feet and not take pictures on the go. Stopped - photographed, the only way. If something happens to you on this section of the path, you will have to climb up to get out of the gorge, and this climb is not easy! I came across four injured people. By the end of the descent, my legs were bent under tension, because for three kilometers I had to walk literally half-bent!
Then the road is leveled horizontally and you can start enjoying! In the second half of the way you will meet mountain streams that you will have to cross over smooth stones. Take your time and be careful.
Along the way there are medical posts, toilets and places to rest with drinking water. There are a few donkey rescues, but they are for emergencies only. There is a huge crowd of tourists in the gorge at the same time, so it is impossible to get lost there or be left without help. Throughout all thirteen kilometers I never managed to be alone!
Time to pass the gorge is given 6-7 hours. Everyone goes at their own pace. Leaving the gorge, you need to walk to the sea, to the village of Agia Roumeli and meet your guide at the appointed time at the appointed place. He will issue a ticket for the ferry. Who does not have time to leave on time, he will not have time for the ferry. Whoever does not make it to the ship will stay overnight in the village, because you can get out of there only on a ship that runs 2 times a day. Well, or walk through the Samaria Gorge in the opposite direction.
You need to get off the ferry at the second stop. First stop is the fishing village of Loutro.
Our second stop is Chora Sfakion. From there, we take buses up the mountains to get from the south coast of Crete to the north.
Two people were missing on our bus on the way back.
I passed the gorge in 4 hours and had time to swim and sunbathe before the boat.
But I did not have time to enjoy either the views or the nature of this unique place. As always, lack of time. It seems to me that tourists come here as part of organized excursions with only one goal - to overcome these kilometers. In order to contemplate and enjoy nature, it is better to go on your own. The cost is 42 euros, plus 19 euros - a ticket for a boat.
Returning to the hotel late in the evening, I was delighted to find that the flight had been rescheduled an hour later. And night swimming in the sea, too, finally came true!
The next morning I said goodbye to the hotel.
The airport is only seven kilometers away…
I didn't miss my plane and didn't give the hotel guide a headache. But some part of me remained there, on the roof of a small hotel, on the shores of the Cretan Sea, under the Greek spring sun.
Kalimera, Hellas! Sagapao!
Thanks to Yana for such a detailed and lively review, as well as great photos! Yana's first Greek vacation is a vivid example of how you can perfectly plan a vacation in Greece on your own, and then get the most out of it. 🙂 Good luck in the contest!
Crete. Orion Hotel. Holiday review 2010.
We rested in Crete at the Orion Hotel in June 2010. The village of Adelyanos Kampos. It is six kilometers from the city of Rethymnon towards Heraklion. We were in Greece for the first time. I liked literally everything, but most of all I remember the excursion to the island of Gramvousa and to the Balos lagoon. But more on that later.
During the ten days of stay, the sea was worried only for the first two days and, at that time, there was a strong wind. For Crete, such weather, as we were told, is normal. The water was 24 degrees, the most comfort.
We rented a car in Crete for only one day for 35 euros (which we are very sorry about now, because, as it turned out, we didn’t see so much…). "Rent a kar" was called "Greenways". The car was taken according to our Russian rights, without an IDP (national driver's license).
We took "Rent a car" "Greenways" "Toyota Yaris".
By car by Crete we went only towards Chania with a stop at Lake Kournas. The car was left there in a free parking lot, and they themselves took a catamaran to ride on the lake, it costs 8 euros per hour.
We swam directly from the catamaran. We did not see the turtles we were told so much about. But we saw a flock of geese, apparently wild, because they roam there on their own and lay their eggs under the nearest bush. These eggs, apparently, no one collects, because there are a lot of them.
Geese on the lake Kournas. They are not afraid of people at all.
Above the lake there is a good tavern where you can have a tasty meal. Which is what we did.
The second excursion we had was to the island of Gramvoussa with a visit to the Balos lagoon. We bought it from a guide at the hotel. Gramvousa, this is the place where Prince Charles and Princess Diana loved to visit. Gramvusa is "HEALTH"! I advise everyone. This is how I envisioned Crete. Excursion to the island of Gramvousa cost 58 euros per person and took us all day. From Rethymnon, a bus takes two hours to the town of Kissamos (this is a small port towards the city of Chania). There you change to a boat and sail for an hour to the island. The boat goes along the picturesque rocky shores. Just have time to click the shutter of the camera. You can dine on this trip only on a boat, there are no taverns on the island itself. We ordered souvlaki and house wine.
The ship on which we went on an excursion to the island of Gramvousa.
On the island of Gramvousa, you will be offered to climb to the top to the ruins of the Venetian fortress at a height of almost 130 meters. During the ascent around the bushes and underfoot, many rabbits flicker.
The ship goes along the coast of Crete.
Amazing scenery of the Cretan coast near the island of Gramvousa. Three seas merge at this point: the Aegean, the Ionian and the Libyan.
Tourists or Greek fishermen welcome our ship.
Path leading to the ruins of the Venetian fortress of the island of Gramvousa.
The view from the top to the island and the sea is amazing! Once upon a time, pirates and fighters for the independence of Crete ruled here. It is said that the sea here has 15 shades. But, we, however, did not count that much. But the color of the sand on the beach was very impressive. Those who do not want to climb to the top can stay on the shore and swim to their heart's content.
View from above the mountain of Gramvousa island to the pier. Someone decided not to climb the mountain, but just to swim. But, we decided to climb to the top, despite the thirty-degree heat.
The sea here is emerald green and so transparent that you don’t want to get out of the water at all. If you quickly climb to the top and don’t linger too much there, then you can have time and swim to your heart’s content while the rest of the masses of people descend from the mountain. I will add that climbing to the top of Gramvus is not easy. Firstly, a very steep climb, and secondly, you have to climb in unbearable heat. Therefore, be sure to take something on your head, some water and take care of comfortable shoes.
Sea of amazing beauty and transparency.
Then you board the boat again and go further to Balos Bay. Travel time is thirty minutes. After the boat is moored, the people spread along the shore and wander around the bay on the water and the beach, enjoying the fabulous beauty of the sea.
Balos Lagoon. On such a beach it is impossible not to swim.
People in the Balos lagoon enjoy the sea.
The second tour of Crete, which we also ordered from our guide at the hotel, was the Greek Evening. We also really liked it. In the evening you are taken by bus to a Greek village to a tavern. There you will find a rich table with Greek cuisine and an entertainment program with national dances.
Greek evening. We drink and eat while they dance.
Folklore Greek evening in one of the villages.
The Orion Hotel does not have its own beach, so we went to the one we liked. We left the hotel and walked to the left for 150 meters and then turned right to the sea and walked a little more to the left. The entrance to the sea in this place was rocky and we had to buy rubber slippers. Only towards the end of our stay did we manage to accidentally find a normal beach. You just had to go to the right along the sea. Here there were no stones at all and it was a pleasure to swim.
Orion Hotel.
We really liked Crete. Still, it’s not in vain that they say that if you visit Crete once, you will want to get to this paradise island again and again!
I'll tell you a little about Laguna Balos (and show). This picturesque place is definitely worth a visit for everyone who travels to Crete! Balos Lagoon or, in other words, Balos Bay is one of the the most beautiful places on the planet! It is believed that 3 seas merge here - the Cretan (Aegean), Libyan and Ionian. The purest water casts in many shades - from light blue to bright turquoise, emerald and ink blue. White sand sometimes has a pink tint. Lapota!!!
Princess Diana and Prince Charles are said to have spent their honeymoon on a yacht in Balos Bay.
There are no hotels, restaurants, the only thing is that you can rent a sun lounger)) but spending the night is not an option))). This is a paradise of pristine nature, untouched by civilization. A lot of people, a very popular place among tourists)))
I will go through in order with some details, maybe it will be useful to someone in the future.
This time in Crete we stopped in Rethymno, a very convenient place for seeing western sights and at the same time not so far from the central part of the island - the capital of Heraklion (about 80 km), so it is convenient to visit the Palace of Knossos - the labyrinth of the Minotaur ( We didn't make it, but I've been there before. In general, I like Rethymnon more than Heraklion, it is more comfortable, you can feel the local flavor more. Living in a city also has its advantages, in addition to a more developed infrastructure, you also don’t need to spend precious days on a trip to the city, where you try to see everything at a gallop in Europe, and you can walk through the streets calmly and slowly day after day.
Balos Lagoon is located at the westernmost point of the island, if you plan to visit it, it is more convenient to settle starting from the outskirts of Rethymno and to the west, closest to the bay from the city of Chania and neighboring villages.
From Heraklion, Hersonissos, Agios Nikolaos, Elounda and other central and eastern towns and villages - already far and tiring. Last time I stayed in Hersonissos and did not go for this reason, but then I swam to Santorini and also got a lot of impressions!
There are two ways to get to Balos - by sea and by land, first to the port of Kissamos (we traveled by minibus - one and a half to two hours 100 km with a tail), then sailed on a boat for a little more than an hour.
Clouds in the port as painted)). But no, they are real
The second option to get to the bay is by rented car, but they say the road is not for the faint of heart - up a narrow winding mountain dirt road, stones, dust, a cliff on the side, you can pretty beat up the car off-road. But on the other hand, the views from above are unusually beautiful (later I will go up there;)) !!! Goats still live in the mountains, Kri-Kri goats are sacred animals among the Cretans, for killing Kri-Kri you can get from 2 to 8 years)). Then, from the parking lot, there is a two-kilometer descent on foot and, accordingly, a return ascent. The downside of the auto route is that you don’t get to the neighboring island of Gramvusu, where you are taken by boat. So I would advise you to sail on the sea.
On this section of the path, the sea is purple! The strip on the rock is the mountain road to Balos.
And here on the rock you can see a string of cars, cork chtoli.
To the lagoon we went with the local agency Spiridon Tour, I’ll tell you about it separately next time, I recommend it in general - everything is well organized and cheaper than our tour operators. Excursion28 euro + ship 14 euro +1 euro tax. Meals on the ship for an additional fee. Interestingly, if you decide to go yourself without any agencies, then a ship ticket at the box office will cost 2 times more (?) 28 euros and, accordingly, plus expenses to get to the port (about 110 km from Rethymno) and what is not convenient - with transfers , but you still have to catch the ship in the morning)), as a result, you won’t be able to save money, in total it will come out for that or even a little more expensive and more crap. Therefore, it is better to go to Balos in an organized manner. This is not an advertisement for Spiridon, if anything, they don’t pay me extra)), but I recommend it as a satisfied client.
And so we arrived at Balos! The sea is very juicy, emerald-turquoise! We were taken to the shore in boats.
And this is heaven!!! "50 Shades of Blue"...
First of all, I climb up to take photos)). Crawl uphill for a kilometer and a half, first on sand, then on rocky steps, but it's worth it!!! I have never regretted it, the landscapes are amazing, cosmic!!!
Tourists who arrived by car descend along the same path.
My fellow travelers were too lazy to get up, I had to ask passers-by to capture me against the backdrop of beauty))
Prival)) 
And here it is, top view! But the photo still does not convey that beauty!
After a little rest, I go down back, quickly plunge into the beautiful water, time is running out.
This is what the bay looks like from below.
On the horizon is the pirate island of Gramvousa with an ancient fortress on top, to which we will soon sail.
Pink sand near the water's edge. That's it, I'm off to swim ;)
After bathing and having dinner on the ship, we sailed to Gramvuse. Laziness overcame me and I did not climb up)). The landscapes of Balos were enough for me, here, in principle, almost the same view. My sister went up alone (she didn't go up on Balos;)).
On the right, near the houses, you can see the path upstairs, but that's not all) further to the left and to the very top under the scorching sun).
I decided to stay on the beach and swim))
A bit of history:
At the top of the cliff (137m) there is a fortress built in the 16th century by the Venetians (Crete was under the rule of the Venetians in the Middle Ages), which is of strategic importance - control over the strait between western Crete and the Peloponnese. The Venetians feared the expansion of the Ottoman Empire, and yet it was not possible to avoid it. The Turks took possession of Crete (17th century). For some time, under the treaty, the fortress was still under the control of the Venetians, who hoped to return Crete, but the Venetian commandant Luca De La Rocco betrayed his brothers and let the Turkish troops inside, in exchange for receiving privileges in Istanbul.
Turkocracy lasted for more than 200 years.
The fortress of Gramvousa played an important role during the national liberation movement of the Greek people against the Ottomans (19th century). Cretan rebels disguised as Turks got inside. The fortress of Gramvousa became the first part of Crete, liberated from the Turkish yoke, but not for long. She gave shelter to more than 3000 people and became the beginning of the liberation movement. However, the difficult living conditions led to the fact that the inhabitants of the fortress were forced to engage in piracy in order to feed themselves. Attacks on ships caused a wave of indignation among the Europeans, piracy was put an end to by joint efforts, and since. Crete was under the jurisdiction of Turkey, the fortress again passed into the hands of the Ottomans.
And only in 1898 Crete became free.
The water here is also beautiful, but the entrance to the sea is not easy, through sharp and slippery stones, in which they settled sea urchins. Egyptian coral slippers would come in handy. Barefoot is difficult, but possible) and carefully), I went in, though for a long time.
Off the coast of Gramvousa you can see a sunken ship.
On December 30, 1967, a ship loaded with cement was heading from Central Greece to North Africa, but due to weather conditions, it was forced to change course and anchor off Gramvousa Island. The weather worsened even more, the anchor chain broke, the ship ran aground and the engine room was flooded (not only the date is known, but also the time, I’ll write it down, astrologically it can come in handy - January 8, 1968 at 1:15 pm). The crew made it safely to shore and when the weather cleared up (2 days later) a Greek Navy destroyer picked them up.
The photo shows the wreckage of this ship (" DIMITRIOS P»)
After swimming and enjoying the beauty, we set off on our way back...