National cuisine of Russia. Traditional Russian cuisine Dishes of Russian national cuisine history

    A separate section in Russian cuisine that has not changed for centuries is numerous preparations. In many regions of Russia there was cold weather for nine months of the year. Due to weather conditions, housewives tried to prepare as much food as possible for future use. They used different methods of preserving food: salting, smoking, soaking, fermentation. Cabbage soup was prepared from sauerkraut or pickled cabbage and added to porridge and pies. Pickled apples were also actively used as treats or additions to main dishes. Pickles have become ingredients in many traditional Russian recipes. And salted or dried meat and fish were served when the fast ended.

    Festive Russian dishes

    Russian cuisine combined ritual and practical functions. For the holidays, certain dishes were prepared, each of which had its own meaning. In poor families, some ingredients were replaced with cheap ones, but the meaning was not lost. The main holidays were Christmas, Maslenitsa, Easter, weddings, and birthdays.

    Traditional Russian food

    Every nation has authentic dishes that every tourist recommends trying. Food in Russia is an acquaintance with the way of life of the people and immersion in traditions. Not all Russian dishes that were prepared five hundred years ago can be tasted now. But some of the recipes are still popular and show the diversity of Russian cuisine.
    Traditional Russian recipes:

Topic: Traditional Dishes of Russian Cuisine

Topic: Traditional Russian cuisine

Russia is the world’s largest country, so if differs greatly from region to region. The same can be said about Russian national cuisine, which is rather varied and based on different cultural and historic traditions. Usually any national cuisine is formed under the influence of two main factors: religion, which prescribes eating certain kinds of food, and climate, which determines the availability of various vegetables, fruit, meat and fish products. Orthodoxy, which has traditionally been an official religion in Russia, doesn’t forbid any food. But long fasts prescribing abstinence from meat and other types of animal source food, explain why Russian cuisine includes many vegetarian dishes. And long severe Russian winters help to understand why hot fatty soups and broths are so popular in this country.

Russia is the largest country in the world, so its different regions are very different from each other. The same can be said about Russian national cuisine, which is very diverse and based on different cultural and historical traditions. Typically, any national cuisine is formed under the influence of two main factors: religion, which prescribes the consumption of certain types of food, and climate, which determines the availability of various types of vegetables, fruits, meat and fish products. Orthodoxy, which has traditionally been the official religion in Russia, does not prohibit any food. However, the long fasts, which prescribe abstinence from meat and other animal products, explain why Russian cuisine includes many vegetarian dishes. And the long, harsh Russian winters help us understand why hot, rich soups and broths are so popular in this country.

The most popular Russian soups, which are well-known all over the world, are borshch, shchi, and the cold summer soup okroshka. There are a lot of regional recipes for these dishes, but traditionally, both borshch and shchi are and are served hot with sour-cream and rye bread. Sometimes, for example, during a religious fast, meat can be substituted by fish or mushrooms. Borshch is always cooked with beet-root, which gives it a saturated red color, and shchi must be based on fresh or sour cabbage. As for okroshka, it is mainly cooked in summer. It is a cold soup, where instead of meat broth kvass is used. It contains cold meat (usually beef), boiled potatoes, boiled eggs, cucumbers and green onion. All the ingredients are chopped and mixed. Okroshka is usually served with sour-cream, mustard and horseradish.

The most popular Russian soups, which are well known all over the world, are borscht, cabbage soup and the cold summer soup okroshka. There are many regional recipes for these dishes, but traditionally both borscht and cabbage soup are cooked in strong meat or bone broth and served hot with sour cream and rye bread. Sometimes, for example, during religious fasting, meat can be replaced with fish or mushrooms. Borscht is always prepared with the addition of beets, which gives it a rich red color, and the base of the cabbage soup should be fresh or sauerkraut. As for okroshka, it is prepared mainly in the summer. This is a cold soup where kvass is used instead of meat broth. It contains cold meat (usually beef), boiled potatoes, boiled eggs, cucumbers and green onions. All ingredients are finely chopped and mixed. Okroshka is usually served with sour cream, mustard and horseradish.

Pelmeni is one more famous Russian dish. Small balls from minced meat are wrapped into dough made of flour and eggs and then boiled in salted water usually with bay leaves. Pelmeni can be served with sour-cream, table vinegar or horseradish. The filling can be made of any sort of meat – pork, beef, lamb or chicken. a mixed minced meat, for example, pork and beef, or pork, beef and lamb. A vegetarian analogue of pelmeni is vareniki, which is more popular in Ukraine. Fillings for vareniki can be made of cottage cheese, mashed potatoes, mushrooms, berries and so on.

Pelmeni is another famous Russian dish. Small balls of minced meat are wrapped in an unleavened dough of flour and eggs and then boiled in salted water, usually with the addition of a bay leaf. Dumplings can be served with sour cream, vinegar or horseradish. The filling can be prepared from any type of meat - pork, beef, lamb or chicken. However, the best dumplings contain mixed minced meat, such as pork and beef or pork, beef and lamb. A vegetarian analogue of dumplings is varenyky, which is more popular in Ukraine. The filling for dumplings can be made from cottage cheese, mashed potatoes, mushrooms, berries, and so on.

The most popular Russian national salads are vinegret, Olivier salad (abroad it is sometimes called Russian salad), and “dressed herring”. Vinegret is a purely vegetarian salad, which is cooked from chopped boiled vegetables (beetroot, potatoes, carrots), fresh or sour cabbage, pickled cucumbers and onion. Olivier and herring salads are mayonnaise-based and rather substantial. The first one is cooked from boiled vegetables, eggs and boiled meat (which nowadays is often substituted with sausages), and the second one is a layered salad made of pickle herring, boiled potatoes, carrots, beetroots and eggs. Sometimes the herring salad also contains apples.

The most popular Russian national salads are vinaigrette, Olivier (abroad it is often called “Russian salad”) and “herring under a fur coat.” Vinaigrette is a purely vegetarian salad that is prepared from finely chopped boiled vegetables (beets, potatoes, carrots), fresh or sauerkraut, pickles and onions. It is seasoned with vegetable oil. Olivier and “herring” are mayonnaise-based and very filling salads. The first is made from boiled vegetables, eggs and boiled meat (which these days is often replaced with sausage), and the second is a layered salad of salted herring, boiled potatoes, carrots, beets and eggs. Sometimes herring salad also contains apples.

Of course, as blini should not be left unmentioned. of cooking and filling, blini can serve as a dessert or an appetizer. Blini are made of batter, which is poured on a hot frying pan and fried. Blini can be cooked of wheat, rye, oat, or buckwheat flour. They are served with run butter, sour cream, caviar, vinegar pickled mushrooms, berries or jam. Traditionally, blini have been cooked during the Maslenitsa festival,

“Oh, Lightly bright and beautifully decorated Russian land! You are famous for many beauties: you are famous for many lakes, locally revered rivers and springs, mountains, steep hills, high oak forests, clean fields, wondrous animals, various birds, countless great cities, glorious villages, monastery gardens, temples of God...,- wrote the ancient chronicler. - You are filled with everything, Russian land!..”

Here, in the vast expanses - from the White Sea in the north to the Black Sea in the south, from the Baltic Sea in the west to the Pacific Ocean in the east, Russians live next to other peoples - a nation united in language, culture and way of life.
An integral part of the culture of every nation is cuisine. It is not without reason that ethnographers begin their study of the life of any people by studying their cuisine, for it reflects in a concentrated form the history, life and customs of the people. Russian cuisine in this sense is no exception; it is also part of our culture, our history.

The first meager information about Russian cuisine are contained in chronicles - the oldest written sources of the X-XV centuries. Old Russian cuisine began to take shape in the 9th century and reached its peak by the 15th century. Naturally, the formation of Russian cuisine was primarily influenced by natural and geographical conditions. The abundance of rivers, lakes, and forests contributed to the appearance in Russian cuisine of a large number of dishes from fish, game, mushrooms, and wild berries.

It is rightly believed that by sowing a field, growing and harvesting grain, a person first acquired his homeland. Since time immemorial, Russians have grown rye, oats, wheat, barley, millet, and buckwheat on their lands. Cereal porridges were cooked from them: oatmeal, buckwheat, spelled, rye... Porridge was and remains our national dish. It accompanies a Russian person throughout his life: small children are fed semolina porridge cooked in milk, adults love buckwheat porridge, kutia* is a funeral dish.

Porridge is considered the “foremother” of bread. “Porridge is our mother, and rye bread is our dear father,” says a Russian folk proverb.

It has been known in Rus' since time immemorial fresh and sour dough. From simple unleavened dough they made carols, sochni, and later noodles, dumplings, and dumplings. Black rye bread was baked from sour yeast dough, without which the Russian table is unthinkable to this day. By the 10th century, wheat flour appeared, and the range of baked goods increased sharply, loaves, rolls, kovrigs, pies, pancakes, pancakes and other baked goods appeared.

Among the most ancient foods are Russian oatmeal, rye, and wheat. jelly. They are at least 1000 years old. The story of how jelly saved the city is recorded in the chronicle known as “The Tale of Bygone Years.” This is what the chronicler Nestor told about.

The 10th century in Rus' turned out to be difficult: there was a great continuous war with nomadic tribes who made constant raids on Russian lands. One day the Pechenegs besieged Belgorod. The siege lasted for a long time, and severe famine began in the city. Then a people's council gathered, and the townspeople decided: it was better to surrender to the Pechenegs than for everyone to die of hunger. But one elder said: “Don’t give up for three more days and do what I tell you.” The elder ordered to collect the remains of oats, wheat and bran from all over the city, prepare a casser** from them for cooking jelly, and look for honey and make a sweet meal from it***. Then he ordered to dig two wells and place tubs in them level with the ground. A jelly solution was poured into the first tub, and a honey drink into the second. The next day, the townspeople invited several Pechenegs and led them to the wells. They drew a bucket from the first well, cooked jelly, began to eat it themselves, and washed it down with a honey drink from the second well and treated it to the Pechenegs. They marveled and decided that the land itself fed the Russians. Having returned, the Pechenegs told their princes everything that had happened, they lifted the siege and went home from the city.

Nowadays, grain jelly is almost forgotten. They were replaced by starch-based berry jelly, which appeared almost 900 years later than cereals.

By the 10th century, turnips, cabbage, radishes, peas, and cucumbers were already common in Rus'. They were eaten raw, steamed, boiled, baked, salted, and pickled. Potatoes became widespread in Russia only in the 18th century, and tomatoes in the 19th century. Until the beginning of the 19th century, there were almost no salads in Russian cuisine. The first salads were made from one vegetable, so they were called cabbage, cucumber or potato salad. Later, the recipe for salads became more complicated, they began to be made from different vegetables, meat and fish were added, and new names appeared: “Spring”, “Health”, “Sea Pearl” and others.

Liquid hot dishes, they were then called brew, or bread, appeared in Rus' also in the ancient period: first fish soup, cabbage soup, stews, zatirukhi, mash, later borscht, kalia, pickles, then solyanka. In the 19th century, liquid hot dishes received a common name - soups.

Among the drinks, kvass, honey, all kinds of decoctions from forest herbs, as well as sbitn**** were common. Spices, and in large quantities, have been used in Rus' since the 11th century. Russian and overseas merchants brought cloves, cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, saffron, coriander, bay leaves, black pepper, olive oil, or, as it was then called, wood oil, lemons, etc. It must be recalled that Rus' conducted extensive trade: in the west with the Varangians and Germans, in the south with the Greeks and Danube Bulgarians, in the east with Asian peoples. The Great Water Route “from the Varangians to the Greeks” and the Great Silk Road ran through Ancient Rus'.

Tea first appeared in Russia in the 17th century. As for alcoholic drinks, in Ancient Rus' they drank low-alcohol ones - fermented honey and fermented berry juices. Vodka was first brought to Russia in the 15th century, but was immediately banned from import and appeared again under Ivan the Terrible in the middle of the 16th century, at which time the first “tsar’s tavern” was opened.

The originality of dishes of Russian national cuisine was determined not only by the set of products from which the food was prepared, but also by the peculiarities of their preparation in a Russian oven. Initially, Russian stoves were made without a chimney and heated “black”. Later, stoves with pipes appeared, and then stoves began to be added to the stoves and ovens were built into them. In the Russian stove they cooked food, baked bread, brewed kvass and beer, and dried food supplies on the stove. The stove heated the home, old people and children slept on the stove, and in some areas they steamed in the large firebox of the Russian stove, as if in a bathhouse.

The food cooked in a Russian oven had excellent taste. This was facilitated by the shape of the dishes, temperature conditions and uniform heating on all sides. In the Russian oven, food was cooked in clay pots and cast iron pots. Both had a narrow neck, a small bottom and large convex sides. The narrow neck reduced evaporation and contact with air, thereby promoting better preservation of vitamins, nutrients and aromatic substances. Food in a Russian oven was cooked almost without boiling due to the fact that the temperature in the oven gradually decreased, because the oven was first heated and then cooked in it. Thus, the food in the Russian oven steamed more or, as they used to say, simmered. Therefore, porridge, pea soups, and sauerkraut cabbage soup turned out to be especially tasty.

The Russian stove, having served faithfully for at least 3,000 years, has now completely disappeared from urban life and is gradually leaving rural homes. It was replaced by gas and electric stoves, electric grills, and microwave ovens. Dishes cooked in the oven in ceramic dishes under a dough lid largely retain the taste and aroma of ancient Russian cuisine.
In ancient times, the cuisine of the upper class was not much different from the cuisine of the common people. By the 17th century, the food of the royal family, as well as the privileged classes, became more and more sophisticated, differing not only in quantity, but also in composition and method of serving dishes. It should be noted, however, that this applied primarily to the festive, ceremonial table. During fasting days, the royal cuisine still retained its common folk features.

The royal feasts were particularly pompous, pompous and abundant in food. The number of dishes on them reached 150-200, both the size of the dishes and the duration of the feast increased: as a rule, it began with lunch and lasted until late at night.

This is how A.K. Tolstoy describes the feast organized by Ivan the Terrible for 700 guardsmen in the novel “Prince Silver”.


“Many servants, in violet-colored velvet caftans with gold embroidery, stood in front of the sovereign, bowed to him at the waist and, two in a row, went for food. Soon they returned, carrying two hundred roasted swans on golden platters...
The fun had been going on for more than four hours, and there was only half a table. The royal cooks distinguished themselves on this day. They have never been so successful with lemon kalia, spun kidneys and crucian carp with lamb. Particular surprise was aroused by the gigantic fish caught in the Cold Sea and sent to Sloboda from the Solovetsky Monastery. They were brought alive, in huge barrels; the journey lasted several weeks. These fish barely fit on the silver and gold basins, which were brought into the dining room by several people at once. The intricate art of the chefs was shown here in full splendor. The sturgeons and shevrigs were so cut and placed on dishes that they looked like roosters with outstretched wings, like winged serpents with gaping jaws. The hares in noodles were also good and tasty, and the guests, no matter how busy they were, did not miss either the quails with garlic sauce, or the larks with onions and saffron. But, at a sign from the steward, they removed salt, pepper and vinegar from the tables and removed all the meat and fish dishes. The servants went out two abreast and returned in new attire. They replaced the brocade dolmans with summer kuntushkas made of white axamite with silver embroidery and sable trim. These clothes were even more beautiful and richer than the first two. Cleaned up in this way, they brought the sugar kremlin, weighing five pounds, into the chamber and placed it on the royal table. This Kremlin was cast very skillfully. The battlements and towers, and even the men on foot and on horseback, were carefully finished. Similar kremlins, but smaller ones, about three pounds, no more, decorated other tables. Following the Kremlins, they brought in about a hundred gilded and painted trees, on which gingerbread, gingerbread and sweet pies hung instead of fruit. At the same time, lions, eagles and all sorts of birds cast from sugar appeared on the tables. Between the cities and the birds rose piles of apples, berries and Volosh nuts. But no one touched the fruits anymore; everyone was full. Some finished their cups of romanea, more out of decency than from thirst, others dozed with their elbows on the table; many were lying under the benches, everyone, without exception, had loosened their belts and unbuttoned their caftans.”

The 18th century in Russia was marked by a new stage in the development of Russian society. Peter I not only moved the capital closer to Western Europe and changed the calendar, but also forced many customs to change.
Starting from the times of Peter the Great, Russian cuisine began to develop under significant influenced by Western European cooking, first German and Dutch, and later French.

The Russian nobility began to “sign up” foreign cooks, who completely replaced Russian cooks among the upper class. The stove, along with pots, baking trays, and skimmers, was adopted from our western neighbors. The Russian table was replenished with sandwiches, salads, pates and broths, the range of dishes fried in frying pans expanded (steaks, entrecotes, languettes, cutlets), exquisite sauces, jellies, creams, mousses, etc. appeared. Many native Russian dishes began to be called in French manners, for example, the well-known Russian appetizer of boiled potatoes and beets with pickles began to be called vinaigrette from the French vinaigrette - vinegar. The usual Russian taverns with sex workers were replaced by restaurants with head waiters and waiters. All these innovations were introduced into folk cuisine very slowly, and many newfangled influences practically did not affect the diet of the common people.

It should be noted that over the centuries, along with original dishes, much has been borrowed from neighbors. Thus, it is believed that grain processing and yeast dough came to us from the Scythians and from the Greek colonies of the Black Sea region; rice, buckwheat, spices and wine - from Byzantium; tea, lemons, dumplings - from eastern neighbors; borscht and cabbage rolls - from the Western Slavs. Naturally, once on Russian soil, foreign dishes assimilated with Russian culinary traditions and acquired a Russian flavor. The desire to cleanse Russian cuisine of foreign influences is as pointless as an attempt to cleanse the Russian language of words of foreign origin.

The dispute about the purity of Russian national traditions and the purity of the Russian language has long roots. In the 18th century, Russian writers V.K. Trediakovsky and A.P. Sumarokov greeted with indignation the appearance of the word soup in the Russian language. Sumarokov wrote:

“It seems brainless, the Russian language is stupid: Is the stew tasty, or is the soup tasty?”

Time has passed, and now no one objects to soup, but new, more recent borrowings, such as cocktails, raise objections. Of course, you can replace the word cocktail with the words dessert drink, but our young people go to bars, go to parties and drink these same cocktails! And this is everywhere in the urban environment - from Novgorod to Vladivostok.

The issue of foreign influences and borrowings has been and remains the most controversial both in Russian history in general and in the history of Russian cuisine in particular. It is appropriate to quote the words of Academician D. S. Likhachev: “Russian culture is an open culture, a kind and courageous culture, accepting everything and creatively comprehending everything.”

Had a great influence on the entire Russian way of life, including Russian cuisine. adoption of Christianity. With the spread of Christianity in Rus', there was a sharp division of the Russian table into Lenten and non-Lenten, that is, modest. Observance of fasts from 196 to 212 days a year (in different ways in different years) led to a wide variety of flour, vegetable, mushroom and fish dishes. During fasts it was forbidden to have too much fun, eat meat and dairy foods, eggs and sugar, and during strict fasts it was forbidden to eat fish. The fasts were multi-day - Lent, Christmas, Epiphany and others, as well as one-day ones - on Wednesdays and Fridays.

After the fasts, holidays came, the days of the meat eater, and then the fast table was replaced by a fast one. There were many holidays - from 174 to 190 a year. We can say that life in Russia was a necklace of holidays.

The abundance of meat and dairy food depended entirely on the diligence and diligence of the peasant. At the beginning of the century, meat, poultry, fish, and game were transported to St. Petersburg and Moscow by carts. The festive table was mostly rich and plentiful. Abundance, as the Russian historian I.N. Boltin wrote at the end of the 18th century, is one of the characteristic features of the Russian table. For the holidays, all kinds of pies were prepared, pancakes were baked, jellies were cooked, pigs, geese and ducks were fried.

The Old Russian meat table was distinguished by the preparation of dishes from a whole carcass of a bird or animal, or a large piece of meat. Shredded meat was used mainly for filling pies or stuffing geese, chickens, lamb and pork legs, and cauliflowers. Later, under the influence of Western European cuisine, the Russian table became even more diverse.

The famous writer I. S. Shmelev in the novel “The Summer of the Lord” describes the Lenten and fast table at the name day in his father’s house: “On the Lenten section of the table... eight excellent courses were served: broth on a live ruff, with sterlet pies, steamed sterlet - “overlord’s”, fish croquettes with grainy caviar, burbot fish soup, three kulebyaki “on four corners” - and with fresh porcini mushrooms, and with elm in pike-perch caviar, and salmon “telelnoe”, and vol-au-vent-ograté, with rice sauce and caviar bake; and sturgeon aspic, and fluffy beluga cutlets of the highest selection, with mushroom sauce with capers and olives, with lemon; and steamed whitefish with a garnish of crayfish necks; and nut cake, and almond cream, doused with perfumed rum, and some kind of pineapple maseduvan, in cherries and golden peaches.
...And the skormniks were also richly served. Kulebyaki, croquettes, pies; two hot ones - soup with goose giblets and rassolnik; hazel grouse aspic, selected Arsentich ham, from Sunduchny Ryad, famous throughout Moscow, in green Rostov milk peas; fried goose under apples, with shredded red cabbage, with ruddy hollow potatoes - “Pushkin”, chicken, “pozharsky” - cutlets on the bones in openwork; pineapple, “Kurievskaya”, porridge, in creamy foam and nut-fruit pastry, ice cream in champagne.”

The abundance of the Russian table should not be confused with gluttony. First of all abundance of Russian table was associated with hospitality - a national trait of the Russian people, inherent, of course, in many other peoples. Gluttony, the quality of eating in excess, was widely and greedily considered a vice. About a person who does not know how to eat, people said with condemnation: “There is no howl in him.”
Speaking about Russian cuisine in general, it is necessary to dwell on its regional characteristics. They are explained primarily by the difference in natural zones and the associated diversity of animal and plant products.
Regional features were also formed under the influence of neighboring peoples. Therefore, the cuisine of Novgorodians, Muscovites, Siberians-Uralians, Don and Terek Cossacks, and White Sea Pomors was quite different from one another. Much of what was well known and familiar in one area remained practically unknown outside it.

The turbulent events of the 20th century, which entailed population migration, the development and widespread introduction of mass media, and the emergence of a public catering system with unified “Collections of Recipes,” largely smoothed out regional characteristics, but to a certain extent also enriched the national Russian cuisine. Nevertheless, in Novgorod and Pskov they still cook cabbage soup with smelt, on the Don - fish soup with tomatoes, in the North they eat venison, and in Siberia - stroganina*****.

Russian cuisine has come a long way in its development. Along this path there were periods of formation, improvement and prosperity, but there were also periods of decline, there were bright original finds, successful borrowings, but also offensive losses.

SNACKS

A distinctive feature of Russian cuisine is the abundance and variety of snacks. When guests arrive, both in former times and now, it is customary for us to serve all kinds of pickles on the table: sauerkraut, pickled apples, pickled mushrooms, cucumbers, herring. In a hospitable home, the owners greet guests at the doorstep and immediately invite them to a pre-set table.
All kinds of salads occupy their permanent place on both the festive and everyday tables. In recent years, cocktail salads have appeared as snacks in restaurants and cafes, the characteristic feature of which is the careful grinding of all components. This is the most important condition that determines the taste of the salad and the way it is served. Cocktail salads are served in glass, crystal glasses or bowls with a teaspoon. They are easy to prepare, piquant in taste and bring a certain novelty to the use of familiar products. These qualities make cocktail salads quite suitable for the home table.
Before preparing any salads, the products must be cooled.
Hot snacks are rarer not only in home cuisine, but also in restaurant cuisine. The best of them migrated to the category of second courses. The exceptions are boiled potatoes with butter and julienne, which came to us from French cuisine. Meanwhile, hot snacks are the best snacks for strong drinks.
The taste of snacks largely depends on sauces and gravies, that is, on what they are seasoned with. The same dish, seasoned differently, is perceived differently.
Since ancient times, snacks, like other dishes, have been decorated, or, as they say, decorated. Decoration is, of course, a matter of taste, but there is one immutable rule: it should be decorated with the products that are part of the dish. The only exception is greens and sometimes berries. In general, you need to decorate in such a way that your mouth waters, so that just the sight of the dish immediately whets your appetite!

NOTES

* Kutia or kutia - porridge with raisins, honey infusion, made from barley, wheat or rice, brought to church during a funeral service and served at the funeral table, and in some areas on Christmas Eve.

** Tsezh is a jelly solution.

*** Full - honey infusion, boiled honey on water.

**** Sbiten is a hot drink made with honey and spices.

***** Stroganina is fresh frozen fish that is eaten without prior heat treatment

When we organize a feast in the Russian style or go to a Russian restaurant, the menu will definitely include pickled cucumbers, sauerkraut, pickled mushrooms, for the first course - daily cabbage soup, Moscow borscht and fish soup, delicacies - sturgeon, red and black caviar, game. Siberian dumplings, boiled potatoes, Guryev porridge, pancakes... Which of these did our ancestors actually eat?

Cabbage soup and porridge are our food.

The usual food of Russian peasants was not very varied. You need to cook quickly and satisfyingly, using what you have grown with your own hands or collected from the forest. They ate little meat, although from time immemorial they raised chickens, geese, cows, goats and pigs.
Our ancestors called cabbage soup any soup, not just with cabbage, as it is now. Turnips, cabbage, and beets were grown in the gardens. All this could be boiled in water or meat broth, whitened with milk or sour cream - that’s the whole recipe. In spring, sorrel or young nettles were used. To make it “richer,” they added “stuffing” made from fried lard, and during Lent they seasoned food with hemp oil. In the 16th century you could try “shti borschovy”, “shti cabbage”, “shti repyany”.
They often ate tyyuryu - bread crumbled into kvass, milk or water in small pieces. They could also add greens there and season it all with vegetable oil. It did not require fire to prepare it, so it could be made right in the field, where the peasants went to work for the whole day. Moreover, in the summer heat, such food does not make you sleepy. Today's okroshka comes from turi.
But borscht was first called a stew made from hogweed (not the kind that can get burned). Then they began to cook it with beet kvass: they heated it in a pot, threw chopped beets, carrots, and cabbage into boiling water and sent it to simmer in the oven.
The highest calorie content in the diet was porridge. Them in the 16th century. there were more than 20 species. Different grains and different degrees of grinding made it possible to cook something new. Just as with cabbage soup, our ancestors did not bother themselves and used the word “porridge” to call any thick brew made from chopped ingredients.
Different porridges were popular in different provinces. For example, in Tambovskaya there was most millet. Not only was it used to make porridge with water or milk, but also kulesh with lard. In the Novgorod, Tver, and Pskov provinces they prepared gushka - thick barley porridge from whole grains.
Porridge has become an integral part of many holidays, rites and rituals. It was fed to young people at weddings and to workers after doing collective work. “Babka’s” porridge was used to greet newborns, “victorious” was used to celebrate military successes, “peaceful” was used to seal the truce, and kutia was used to commemorate the deceased.

Bread on the table - and the table is a throne, but not a piece of bread - and the table is a board

We ate a lot of bread. The peasants baked it from rye flour. Since this process is labor-intensive, we started it once a week. The finished product was then stored in special wooden bread bins.
For the peasant, bread was so important that without it, hunger would begin, even if there was plenty of other food. In lean years, quinoa, bran, tree bark, and ground acorns were added to the dough.
Bread was also an attribute of many rituals. We greeted dear guests with “bread and salt”, took communion with prosphora, broke the fast with Easter cakes at Easter, said farewell to the winter with pancakes at Maslenitsa, and greeted spring with “larks”.
Not only bread was baked from flour. Pancakes, pancakes, gingerbread, rolls, and cheesecakes often appeared on the table. In the old days, pancakes were made from buckwheat flour, loose, fluffy, and sour. There were a great variety of pies, they were served with certain dishes: with buckwheat porridge - with fresh cabbage soup, with sour - with salted fish, with meat - with noodles, with carrots - with fish soup.
In the seventeenth century. there were at least 50 recipes for pies. They differed in the type of dough: yeast, puff pastry, unleavened; baking method: spun in oil, hearth. The sizes and shapes changed (round, square, triangular, elongated), the way the filling was placed (open - pies) and closed. The filling could be: meat, fish, eggs, porridge, fruits, vegetables, berries, mushrooms, raisins, poppy seeds, peas, cottage cheese, chopped herbs.

Good appetizer - sauerkraut

Winter in Rus' is long and harsh, which is why all kinds of pickles were so popular. Cabbage was fermented in barrels, apples, cranberries, and lingonberries were added to it. Apples and cranberries were also soaked. When cucumbers appeared, they began to use them.
Mushrooms were especially revered. Milk mushrooms, saffron milk caps, chanterelles, honey mushrooms, trumpet mushrooms – each region has its own. Some species, such as white and boletus, were dried more.
The berries were dried or mixed with honey for storage. There were also preparations in the oven, for example, raspberries could be laid out in an even layer on a leaf of cabbage and sent into the cooling oven. The berries reached the desired condition, and the dried leaf was then removed from the resulting cake.

Potatoes and dumplings

Potatoes came to Russia only in the 18th century through the efforts of Peter I and did not immediately become the “second bread”. But when they tried it, they began to grow it with pleasure, and gradually it replaced turnips from the diet. Thanks to potatoes, it became easier to survive the crop failures of wheat and rye.
Dumplings got into Russian cuisine presumably because of the Urals. There is no mention of them in any Russian cookbook until the beginning of the 19th century. The earliest description of such a dish is found in “Painting of Royal Dishes” (1610-1613), which mentions manti with lamb.
Back in 1817, dumplings were exotic in the European part of Russia, although they were common in Siberia. There they were sculpted in huge quantities and stored in the cold in winter. In 1837, Ekaterina Avdeeva wrote about “dumplings” as a word in use in Siberia, that in Russia they are called “ears”, which are made from pasta dough with chopped beef, also with mushrooms or fish.

The popularity of Russian cuisine throughout the world is unusually wide.
Russian national cuisine has gone through an extremely long path of development, marked by several major stages, each of which has left its mark to this day.

Since ancient times, people have cultivated rye, wheat, barley, oats, and millet.
Hence the appearance of Russian bread made from opela (yeast) rye dough.
This “uncrowned king” ruled the Russian table almost until the beginning of the 20th century, when in the village they usually ate from half a kilo to a kilogram of black, rye bread with cabbage soup or another first liquid dish.
White bread, made from wheat, actually spread to Russia at the beginning of this century.
It was eaten occasionally and mainly by the wealthy sections of the population in cities.

Currently, our menu is unthinkable without one or the other bread. From these two breads, all the other most important types of Russian bakery and flour products gradually emerged: the familiar “Ukrainian”, “Borodinsky”, “Moscow”, peklevanny, long loaves, “palyanitsy”, challah, rolls, buns, saiki, bagels, etc. d.
The food industry has mastered and produces on average up to 50 different bakery products.

Based on cereal crops, cooking was further developed.
They began to prepare all kinds of pies, kovrigi, gingerbread cookies, crumpets, pancakes, pancakes, “boiled bread with honey and poppy seeds,” cook kutya, and various porridges.
Grain products even became an object of veneration, an attribute of various household rituals and religious holidays. At weddings, brides were showered with grain. At funeral feasts in memory of the deceased, funeral kutia was cooked.
These rituals reflected respect for the work of farmers - the basis of the well-being of a family, clan, tribe.

It is difficult to find such another dish in Russian cuisine that would be mentioned so often in works of folk epic as porridge.
They say about a stubborn person - “you can’t make porridge with him,” and if events take a stormy turn, then the expression in use here is “the porridge is brewed.” There is a common saying that “porridge is our mother.”
The East Slavic tribes had a custom - when concluding a peace treaty with the enemy, cook porridge with him and eat it.
Porridge was a symbol of the union, and without it the peace treaty could not come into force.

Even wedding feasts were called “porridge.”
Over the course of many centuries, people have developed wonderful combinations of cereals with other products.
Since ancient times, combinations of cereals with liver, milk, and fish have been used in Russian cuisine.
Combinations of cereals with cottage cheese (casseroles, krupeniki, etc.) are widely known. Cereals are also combined with eggs.
Such combinations of products are primarily useful in that they enrich the mineral composition of dishes, improve their taste and calorie content.

Along with cereal dishes, the above-mentioned flour products play a very important role in Russian cuisine: dumplings, pancakes, pancakes, pies, pies, pies, kurniks, loaves, etc.
Some of them have become traditional for festive tables: kurniks, loaves - at weddings, pancakes - at Maslenitsa.

Some of them are served with soups, thereby increasing the calorie content and complementing the chemical composition of first courses.
Many are also used as independent dishes.

These are pancakes, pancakes, pancakes, dumplings, pies made from yeast, puff pastry, unleavened and butter dough, pies, pies, kulebyaki, kurniks, cheesecakes, sochni, crumpets, donuts, etc.
One of the most beloved dishes in Rus' is pies.

“A hut is not red in its corners, but red in its pies,” says the Russian proverb. The very word “pie”, which comes from the Old Russian word “feast”, suggests that not a single ceremonial feast could do without pies. Moreover, each festival had its own special type of pies, which was the reason for the diversity of Russian pies both in appearance and in taste of dough and filling.

Russian pie dough is always sour and yeasty.
Along with yeast, sour milk, sour cream, beer, mash, and whey can be used as a starter.

Often, sour components are combined in different combinations and proportions, and this makes it possible to significantly diversify the taste of sour dough.
Varied and delicious ingredients.
First of all, it is milk, and then various types of fats, eggs.

The filling for pies is most often prepared from one type of product.

It can be a vegetable filling (cabbage, potatoes, carrots, turnips, onions, sorrel, peas), mushroom (dry, fresh, boiled, fried, salted mushrooms), from a variety of steep porridges with a high oil content, from meat, poultry, game, cottage cheese, eggs.
Pies with complex fillings are called kulebyaki.

All types of filling (except fish) are put into pies only when boiled and cooled.

The fish filling can be made from raw fish (such pies take twice as long to bake as others), as well as salted fish in combination with rice or buckwheat.
The appearance (size, shape) of pies can be very different.

Most often, pies are made in a quarter of a newspaper sheet or in an eighth of it.

Pies smaller than a sixteenth of a part are called pies.
They also make pies in other countries, but there is no such variety as in Russian cuisine in any other cuisine in the world.
They differ from each other in shape, type of filling and dough, method of baking or frying, and size.

Pies are most often served as an appetizer.
They can also be an independent dish, or as an addition to national soups, especially fish soup, cabbage soup, and borscht. The most common pies are made from yeast dough, but they are also made from unleavened, rich and puff pastry.

There are several traditional shapes of pies: boat, herringbone, saechka, rasstegai, square, triangular, round pies, etc.

Their sizes can also vary - from very small (snack size) to large ones, which have to be cut before serving.
Most often, pies are called single-serving products, and pies are multi-serving, sliced ​​products.

Pies also include pies.

Name "unfasten" formed according to a feature that determines the appearance of the product.

As you know, pie is a pie whose middle is left unprotected on top.

In other words, an unclosed, “unbuttoned” pie.
The most common forms of pies:

. boat - the filling is placed in the middle of the flatbread, covered with the edges of the dough, pinched, and the pie is turned seam side down:
. herringbone - they make it in the same way as a boat, but the seam is pinched in the shape of a herringbone and the pie is not turned over;
. net - the pie is given a cylindrical shape, one side is greased with oil, and the products are placed on sheets close to each other, allowed to rest and baked;
. Moscow rasstegai - roll out the dough into a circle, put the filling in the middle, lift the edges of the dough and pinch it so that the middle remains open.
. pie Novotroitsky - roll out the dough into a circle, put in the filling, close the edges of the dough and pinch it with a Christmas tree, but so that there is a hole in the middle;
. crucian carp, kalachik - roll out the dough into an elongated flat cake, put the filling on one half, cover it with the other half of the flat cake.
The dough is pressed well along the seam. The product is given the shape of a ball, bending it so that the corners meet;
. whites - the dough is rolled out in the form of round cakes, minced meat is placed in the middle, and the edges of the dough are lifted and pinched with a herringbone pattern, a round hole is left in the middle.

Winters are harsh and long in the northern and central regions of our country.
It is quite understandable that they are looking forward to the arrival of spring and that is why they are seeing off the winter so noisily and cheerfully.
The farewell usually lasts a whole week and is called Maslenitsa.
This is an ancient folk holiday associated with cheerful and noisy festivities, troika rides, sleigh rides, etc.
This is where the popular saying came from: “It’s not life, but Maslenitsa.”

An invariable attribute of farewell to winter is the abundance of traditional culinary dishes, and first of all, pancakes of all kinds, because a round hot pancake is a symbol of the spring sun.

The example of making pancakes clearly shows a characteristic feature of Russian cuisine - the use of flour not only from rye and wheat, but also from other grains: buckwheat, oats, millet.

Soft, loose, fluffy, spongy - they, like sponges, absorb melted butter and sour cream, which makes them juicy and very tasty.

There are many types of pancakes, differing mainly in the products used for them - the type of flour, water or milk, sour cream, eggs, etc.

Pancakes can be baked plain or with baking (adding various products during baking).
It is good to serve pancakes with butter, sour cream, caviar, lightly salted fish, chopped herring, etc.

Since the 20th century, other flour products made from white (wheat) flour, previously not typical of Russian cuisine, have come into use - noodles, vermicelli, pasta, horns.

In connection with the spread of white bread, drinking tea with it began to sometimes replace breakfast and dinner.

Our ancestors cultivated not only grain crops, but also garden crops, which form the basis of vegetable dishes that are so abundant in Russian cuisine.

The oldest vegetable was especially widely used - cabbage, which can be preserved in the form of sauerkraut until the next harvest.

Archaeological finds dating back to the Stone and Bronze Ages tell us that it was used by primitive people.

This vegetable was cultivated by the ancient Greeks and Romans, as can be read about in the works of Hippocrates, Aristotle and Pliny.

In the first centuries of the new era, the southern Slavs in the Balkans, Georgians, and Russians mastered the ability to grow cabbage.
In the “Izbornik of Svyatoslav” (1073) - the oldest monument of writing in Kievan Rus - cabbage is already mentioned as something ordinary.

In “Domostroy” (16th century) detailed instructions are already given to householders on how to grow cabbage, how best to protect it from spoilage and what to use it for. In ancient times, cabbage was usually chopped after harvesting.
After this, they organized small, unique performances with round dances, songs, and dances. A mandatory treat was pies with cabbage - the so-called “cabbage makers”. The priority of sauerkraut belongs to the Russians.

Among garden crops, along with cabbage, turnips were widely used in the Russian diet. Until the 18th century, it had the same meaning as potatoes now.

Turnips were included in almost all culinary products, especially cabbage soup, and were used as a filling for pies, for the then popular dish - ear, as well as in other dishes.

It was consumed raw, baked and boiled.
Even kvass was made from turnips.

Traces of it in the menu of our ancestors go back to ancient times - even before the emergence of the Moscow Principality.
The harvest was usually harvested in September; this day was called “recut”.

Rutabaga is not mentioned in ancient books.

Apparently because it was indistinguishable from a turnip.
These once widespread garden crops in Russia currently occupy relatively small areas of vegetable growing, as they cannot withstand competition with potatoes and other crops.
It’s a pity - after all, these vegetables are very healthy, unpretentious, shelf-stable and can add a very special taste to many dishes of Russian cuisine.

Just as long ago as turnips and cabbage, radish entered the cuisine of the Russian people.

It is curious that during the festivals dedicated to Apollo, the Greeks always brought him as a gift images of the three main, according to their concepts, root vegetables - radishes, beets and carrots.

At the same time, the radish was always golden, the beets were silver, and the carrots were tin.

In Russia, radish has long been included as an obligatory component in one of the most ancient Russian dishes - tyuryu. The oldest folk delicacy, mazulya, was prepared from radish: the root vegetable, cut into thin slices, was strung on knitting needles, dried in the sun, crushed and sifted through a sieve; Rare flour was boiled in white molasses until thickened, adding spices to it.

Since time immemorial, Russian cuisine has known cucumbers.

They are mentioned in written monuments of Ancient Rus'.
In “Domostroy” they are given one of the most honorable places among Russian garden crops, although the homeland of the cucumber is India and Ancient Egypt (the remains of cucumbers were found in tombs dating back to the 2nd millennium BC).

It is difficult to imagine a Russian holiday table without pickles - they are included in vinaigrettes, rassolniks and many other dishes.

Of the vegetable crops that appeared in Russia later, one cannot help but mention potatoes.

Now it is difficult for us to imagine how our ancestors could manage without it. It is not for nothing that potatoes are popularly called the second bread.

It was first brought to Russia at the beginning of the 18th century. Peter I sent a sack of potatoes from Holland to St. Petersburg, ordering Menshikov to send the tubers to all the provinces of Russia. But they really began to plant it as a food crop in our country after the Seven Years’ War, when Russian soldiers in Poland and Prussia saw with their own eyes growing potatoes, tasted them and brought them back to their native lands.

By 1800, potatoes were still so rare that they were given as gifts on holidays and served at court balls and banquets as a rare delicacy.

Gradually, the list of vegetables eaten in Rus' expanded. Pumpkins and zucchini appeared.

We borrowed lettuce from the Dutch in the 16th century, and tomatoes appeared in the 19th century.

Russian cuisine widely includes fish dishes prepared using the salting method (caviar, salmon, balyk products, herring), which in folk cuisine is considered not only a method of canning, but also a culinary technique that gives a special taste to dishes.

Jellied fish products are also widely popular.

Meat dishes that are prepared from offal and offal are popular in Russia.

Soups play a big role in Russian cuisine.

Variety, high nutritional value, excellent unique taste and aroma have earned them wide popularity.

The basis of soups are primarily meat, fish, mushroom and vegetable broths, milk, kvass, and brines. This includes various broths, which in the old days were called fish soup: fish, chicken, meat, mushroom.

Seasoning soups are especially common - cabbage soup, borscht, rassolniki, solyanka.

As a rule, soups are served with sour cream, porridge, dough products - pies, loaves, pies, rybniks, rasstegai, etc. There is also a varied assortment of cold soups, such as okroshka, botvinya, beetroot soup, vzvar (sweet soup).

One of the most common first dishes in the northern and central regions of Russia is cabbage soup.

With the advent of taverns, cabbage soup became the main liquid dish on their menu.

Then they moved to Russian restaurants and are still a specialty of many of them.

Culinary experts know more than 60 recipes for preparing this dish: daily cabbage soup, prefabricated cabbage soup, green cabbage soup, nettle cabbage soup, Ural style cabbage soup, Neva cabbage soup, cold sour cabbage soup, sauerkraut cabbage and fresh cabbage cabbage soup, from seedlings, with anchovy, sprat, herring, sprat, etc.

One of the most popular first courses of Russian cuisine is the fish dish ukha.

Ukha is the ancestor of Russian soups, the pride of Russian cuisine.

Now we only know fish soup, but once upon a time there was meat soup, chicken soup, mushroom soup, hare soup, etc.

At the end of the 18th century, the famous Russian culinary specialist V. Levshin described the preparation of fish soup this way: “Gut the fish, put the caviar and milk in a pot, and if the fish is small, put it whole; if it’s large, cut it in half or into several parts. Pour in water or a decoction made from other fresh small fish; add dill, parsnip, fresh or salted lemon, onion, pepper and cook; Serve with soaked parch in slices.”

At the end of the 19th century, under the influence of French cuisine, restaurants began to prepare clarified and low-fat fish soup - consommé.

But in Russian restaurants they continued to cook fish soup without clarification; its advantage was considered to be the fat on the surface.
If there was none, then they heated the butter with carrots and squeezed it into the ear.

Years passed.

Russian cuisine was enriched with new products, and the recipe for fish soup also changed. Ukha with potatoes (burlatskaya, Rostovskaya) appeared.
In the north, they began to cook milk fish soup: add salt and cleaned small fish to boiling milk, and add butter at the end of cooking.
In the south of our country they cook it with tomatoes.

But just like a thousand years ago, despite the different recipes for fish soup, its main advantage is its strong broth.

Over the centuries, certain rules for preparing fish soup have developed.

These include the selection of dishes, a set of fish varieties, composition of vegetables, spices, cooking technology (order of adding products, cooking time), etc.

The term “rassolnik” became known to us not so long ago.

This name first appeared in Russian culinary literature in the 18th-19th centuries, but the dish itself called “kalya” was known much earlier.

They prepared it with caviar, chicken, and meat. Often the cucumber pickle was replaced with a lemon solution.
Of course, only wealthy people could afford such a luxury.

The use of cucumber pickle as a base for preparing soups has been known since the 15th century.

However, the amount of brine, its concentration and ratio with the rest of the liquid, as well as the combination with other main products (fish, meat, vegetables and cereals) was so different that many dishes were born with different names: kalya, pokhmelki, solyanka and, finally, rassolniki , which began to mean moderately sour and salty soups only on a cucumber base - vegetarian or more often with offal.
Only slightly acidic fish soups began to be called kalya, and hangovers and solyanka - more sour and more concentrated ones.

Modern pickles include pickles, potatoes and other root vegetables of neutral taste (carrots, turnips, rutabaga), cereals (buckwheat, barley, rice, pearl barley), a large number of spicy vegetables and herbs (onions, celery, parsley, parsnips, savory, tarragon, dill) and some classic spices (bay leaf, allspice and black pepper).
Mostly by-products go into the pickle as meat - either just beef, veal kidneys, or all offal (stomach, heart, liver, lungs, legs), as well as offal of chicken, turkey, goose, duck.

In the absence of offal, they are replaced with beef.
Cereals for the pickle are also selected according to the composition of the meat products: pearl barley - in the pickle with kidneys and beef, rice - with chicken and turkey offal, barley - with duck and goose offal.

And buckwheat and rice cereals are placed in a vegetarian pickle sauce. Different types of spices are selected for pickle in the same way.

Russians have long loved second fish courses, in particular boiled ones (sturgeon with horseradish, boiled salmon and cod, lightly salted tasha in brine).

Poached fish dishes with steam, Russian, tomato, and brine sauces are very tasty. But the special pride of Russian cooking has always been baked dishes: fish baked with sour cream, white, milk, tomato, mushroom sauce; caviar casserole; fish baked in dough, etc.

Fried fish has always been in demand: cooked with a small amount of fat in a frying pan, deep-fried, on a spit and coals, in an oven.
This can also be said about dishes made from chopped fish: whole fish, stuffed fish, zrazy, meatballs, cutlets, meatballs, rolls, etc. Russian cuisine also knows fish stewed, jellied, baked (with scales), salted (salted), dried, smoked and dried (sushik). In the Pechora and Perm regions, fish was also fermented (sour fish), and in Western Siberia they ate and still eat stroganina - frozen raw fish.

All these dishes can be prepared from sea fish, which was also used in Russian cuisine in the old days, especially in Northern Russia, in Russian Pomerania, where the saying was widely used - “no fish is worse than no bread.”

Since ancient times, our ancestors consumed the meat of cattle (“beef”), pigs, sheep, goats, as well as poultry - chickens, geese, ducks.

However, in the initial period of the development of Russian cuisine, these products were consumed relatively rarely, and their processing was limited to boiling meat in cabbage soup or gruel.

During this period, poultry and game meat were mainly used.

They did not eat veal for a long time - the peasants considered it a crime to cut a calf in order to feast on its tender meat.

Over time, this acquired the force of habit, and then the character of a religious prohibition, which even kings did not dare to violate. It was not without reason that when Dmitry the Pretender, to please the Polish nobility, wanted to introduce veal into the menu of the royal table, this led to such excitement and indignation at the Russian court that it threatened to turn into a riot.

But already from the middle of the 17th century, along with the already familiar corned beef and boiled meat, spit (that is, cooked on spits) and fried meat, poultry and game appeared on the table.

Types of meat processing are becoming more and more diverse.
Stewed and semi-liquid dishes appear - duck, braised beef and others, which are prepared without a side dish, and vegetables are included in the dish itself. Even later, meat began to be cut into portions before serving. This is how all kinds of chops, entrecotes, langets, beefsteaks, and escalopes appeared.

It should be noted that dishes made from offal have always been popular among the Russian people: liver, kidneys, tripe, pork heads and legs, omentums, etc.
Not a single feast in the old days was complete without pig or goose offal, legs of lamb, etc. Until the 11th century, horse meat was also used, but by the 13th century it had almost gone out of use. In “Domostroy” and “Painting of Royal Dishes” only certain delicious dishes made from horse meat are mentioned (jellied horse lips, boiled horse heads).

Forestry was a great help in the economy of our ancestors. From here hazel grouse, partridges, hares, wild ducks and other game, as well as the meat of some animals: bear, elk, wild boar, etc., were eaten.

The use of forest products is one of the characteristic features of Russian cuisine.
Salted, pickled and dried mushrooms, pickled lingonberries, cranberries, cloudberries, stone fruits, hazelnuts did not leave the table of the Russian people. In the old days, hazelnuts played an important role in nutrition, since nut oil was one of the most common fats.
The forest was also a source of honey, which was so widespread that all foreign travelers who visited Rus' considered it their duty to note this feature.
With the development of cattle breeding, milk, sour cream, cottage cheese, and cream began to be used more and more widely in the diet.

At first glance, it seems that Russian folk cuisine is poor in sweet dishes.

Indeed, it does not contain such elaborate and complex products as in French cuisine - creams, mousses, jellies, soufflés, sambukas.

It does not have such an abundance of sweets as in oriental cuisine, such as Turkish delight, etc. But this poverty is at first glance.
If you delve into the essence of the issue, it turns out that the role of all these dishes in Russian cuisine is played by fresh and canned berries and fruits, flour products (pies, gingerbreads, crumpets, etc.), and various casseroles.

Of the sweet dishes and drinks, the most common are predominantly thick, flour products (pancakes, brushwood, crumpets, noodles with jam, Guryev porridge, gingerbread, makovniki), tea, kvass, honey, compotes, sbiten, etc.

Russia first learned about tea in 1640.
This drink was spoken of as a medicine that could “refresh and cleanse the blood.”

It has also been observed that during church services it prevents sleep. By the beginning of the 18th century, tea had firmly entered the Russian table and became a national drink. All kinds of family matters were resolved over tea, contracts were concluded, and tea became a symbol of hospitality.

Preparing tea (leaving it); serving, all kinds of flour products accompanying it, and the process of tea drinking itself among the Russian people is associated with a number of traditions.

First of all, boiling water for tea, according to tradition, should be prepared in a samovar, which has become the same Russian souvenir all over the world as the famous nesting dolls, Khokhloma wooden utensils, balalaikas, etc. Thus, in Tula at the end of the 19th century, about fifty factories produced samovars. The tea table is usually served with bagels, bagels, sweet pies, muffins, crackers, buns, pretzels, cookies, sweet pies and other flour products.

The flavor diversity of Russian cuisine was achieved, firstly, by various methods of cold and heat treatment, secondly, by the use of various oils (hemp, nut, poppy seed, olive, sunflower) and, thirdly, by the use of spices, of which onions and garlic were most often used , horseradish, dill, parsley, anise, coriander, bay leaf, black pepper, mint, cloves, which appeared in Rus' already in the 10th-11th centuries.

Later, in the 15th century, they were supplemented with ginger, saffron, and cinnamon.

Russian folk cuisine is characterized by simplicity and rationality both in the recipe and cooking technology, and in the design of dishes. Dishes are prepared without unnecessary props, using products that are included in the products - vegetables, herbs, meat and fish jelly, pickles. Dishes for a banquet are decorated rationally and beautifully, without the use of artificial dyes, paper curlers, inedible borders made of raw dough, etc.

For our contemporary people, of course, data about the culinary art of our ancestors is of interest.
From historical materials that have survived to this day (written monuments - “Domostroy”, “Painting of Royal Food”, “Svyatoslav’s Collection”, ancient cookbooks) you can find out both the menu of that time and the special rules for preparing dishes.

For example, at festive royal and boyar dinners, cranes, herons stuffed with porridge, hares, and swans were served.

Thus, the name of “Swan Lane” in Moscow near the Kremlin goes back to the pond where swans swam for Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich.

They were served in sauce with slices of kalach (the use of swan meat was mentioned in “The Tale of Igor’s Campaign”).

Delicious dishes also included pike fish soup, fresh herring and fried with poppy seed broth, pike on a platter, barreled whitefish, and beluga tesha.

The cabbage soup was served either with whitewash (flour dressing) or sour cream.

Fish roe was boiled in vinegar or milk of poppy seeds.

The appetizer was Zobanets peas (peeled), oatmeal, vegetable (fish or meat pulp), fresh salmon with lemon, fresh cabbage with pepper, pea noodles, steamed turnip slices, milk with horseradish, caviar, pike heads with garlic, ham with kvass and garlic, black grouse fried with salted plums, hazel grouse fried under lemon, lamb shoulder fried and sprinkled with chopped jelly (“crushed with jelly”), pickled cucumbers, sauerkraut, etc.

Ancient Russian culinary specialists were also familiar with unique infusion sauces.

For example, onion broths were served with poultry, lamb, and fish; cabbage - for goose, duck, fish; cranberry - for pig, ham, turkey, game, sometimes the broth was poured over fried smelts; lingonberries - for game, fried bream.

In addition, infusions were prepared like spicy sauces with saffron, cloves, pepper, etc. Sauces with saffron were served with dishes of chicken, game, lamb, with cloves - with game, tripe, heart and other offal.

We most of all owe the preservation of recipes for ancient Russian dishes to the Russian scientist of the late 18th century V. A. Levshin (1746-1826), whose name was immortalized by A. S. Pushkin in “Eugene Onegin.”

There (note to Chapter VII) Pushkin called him an economic writer. Levshin collected recipes for ancient Russian spices that had been preserved among people since pre-Petrine times and published them in the book “Russian Cook,” published in Moscow in 1816.
Later, Levshin’s followers were Molokhovets, Radetsky, Alexandrova. Nowadays, Russian cuisine has been enriched with many new dishes, the taste and nutritional qualities of which are undeniably high.